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As far as I know Octavia doesn't have direct TPMS even as an option.

Hi The whole idea of thermostats is that they allow more rapid warm-up than would otherwise be the case. Once warm-up has happened and the thermostat(s) are open they won't be affecting the temperatures one way or the other. Your symptoms appear to be consistent with a thermostat that is not fully closing when cold, and may even be stuck wide open all the time. Low coolant temperatures won't be doing much for engine efficiency. Worth noting that the "needle" coolant temperature gauge indicates rock solid 90 for any coolant temperature between roughly 80 and 100, thanks to software. This is presumably to dissuade customers from bothering their dealers unless something really is awry.

I spoke to a guy in my garage who used to be a Skoda tech. He knew the front crash sensors were NOT behind the bumper but between the radiators and the grille. Access via the plastic bits on the top. Once the few bolts and plastic fasteners were removed he used a little brute force and looked through the gap. Found the sensors and found the wire leading from the sensor had been bitten through in two places. He cut the broken wire out and soldered a new length in. Reconnected the battery, plugged in his diagnostic gadget and cleared the codes and the error message never came back. Once reassembled I took the car for a short test drive to clear the myriad of other errors arising from the disconnected battery. Everything is now working perfectly. A 45 minute exercise. I gave the guy a reasonable tip for his efforts.

Wow, what a great site 🙂 I have now bought one, waiting for it to arrive. And I also need to find someone that can Code it/copy my old. I can add that it's Not a fuse or relay issue for sure. My generator is also good, sits around 14.4 volt when driving... It 99% the BCM. For the first time since a bought the car, new codes have appeared regarding tvs diodes, 03301,03302,03303 and 03304. I know this will be sorted when a new revision is installed of the BCM (h version before week 2011 45)

Hello Adz, unless you have keyless entry or full Kessy, there is no need for Faraday pouch. If your remote is press-button type, key fob only transmits code when button is pressed.

I successfully rejected my Octavia Mark 4 in 2021, after around 5 months of ownership, due to the software being absolute gash. This is all heavily documented on the relevant forum. Your dealer is talking absolute BS.

Hi I am the OP (although using a different account for reason I won't bore you with). Thanks all for the replies. I am dropping the car at the supplying dealer tomorrow for its software update. It should be ready early next week. I am going to make it clear that it is my preference for the dealer to repair the car but if the the fix is not sucessful I may look to reject the car. It does seem that there is a mixed experience with some cars being fixed easily and others having ongoing issues. I was told by the dealer that the car could not be rejected because of a software issue so no doubt I would have a dispute on my hands if I choose to do that. I am hopeful the software update will fix it but if not I really don't see why I should put up with this problem when I have just spent over £30k. After all my 2016 Audi A3 which I am in the process of selling has never put a foot wrong. I'll let you know what happens with it.

No. All a tuning box does is tell the ECU that fuel rail pressure and boost are lower than they actually are, to fool the ECU into increasing those parameters further, with the risk that they can be pushed past safe limits because the ECU doesn't know what the real values are. It's a fudge. It's also limited in what it can achieve since increasing fuel rail pressure is not a particularly effective way to increase fuel flow. It also can only influence two of the many control parameters the ECU uses. In a remap, the tuner modifies the values in the map that the ECU uses to control the engine. They can make sure the engine stays within safe limits for all components. They also have far more options for increasing performance since things like injection timing and duration can be tweaked to push more fuel without needing to increase rail pressure. Even a stock remap is safer and more effective than a tuning box. I realise that I'm unlikely to change your mind due to your choice supportive bias but hopefully I'll help others avoid this mistake.

Ok. So there is an issue right there when the oil is getting to an indicated 72*oC and the Coolant gauge is showing so low. The coolant should get to temp as that is heating up the engine / engine oil. Ok that the oil takes a good few miles to get to a efficient operating temp, ie around 90 *oC, not so with the coolant.

Thanks @Danoid - I'd ordered that exact filter and fitted it today - no improvement unfortunately. My original filter was a Denso filter and was quite dirty. I'm currently testing negative for covid and have noticed the slight smell of fumes mostly since the car was serviced in the middle of December. I can't be absolutely certain that it wasn't there before but I think that I've only noticed it since then. I've got an OBD11 dongle. The car is showing a few faults but none relating to the air quality sensor: Central electronics, remote key 2 - voltage too low (B147A18) Dashboard, function restriction due to communication interruption (U111000) Gateway, static current too high, intermittent (U140600) Brake boost, low voltage, intermittent (P056200) Multimedia, function restriction due to communication interruption (U111000) The car currently has an issue with a fluctuating oil temperature reading and my dealer's attempt to fix it with a software update has broken the Traffic Sign Recognition. @toot the car should have got a pollen/cabin filter at the last service but it wasn't done so I replaced it myself yesterday with the Mann activated carbon filter linked to above. The air seems fresher with recirculation on and was that way before the filter replacement too. Car dealerships here are currently flat out as January is peak sales month due to our year based registration system so it's difficult to get a service appointment during January. I'm also waiting for them to hear back from Skoda re the oil temperature issue so they probably won't see the car again for another month. The smell issue is subtle, as none of my passengers have noticed it on short trips or longer journeys. For me, its something that I become aware of after driving for enough time for the car to fully warm up but its nothing overt, just a feeling that the air in the car is fresher when recirculated or when I open the door to get out. I live in a rural area so the outside air tends to be fume free (mostly). I'd like to figure out likely sources for the smell in advance of my next dealership visit but am not overly optimistic if I'm the only one who notices it. For what its worth, I've popped a carbon monoxide monitor under the drivers seat, just in case but I've had no sensation of tiredness/headache etc when driving.

It will come time with the early ones that were rejected, never addressed and in the trade and still kangerooing. Barge poles come to mind. Be sure to get a good long road test starting from cold, Do not let the sales person warm it up.

My dad worked for Citroen in his last job and said they’d said from a manufacturer POV the AC was a pref over a sunroof for the various structural and maintenance reasons. I’ve never missed it when having a car without one but if I do I like having it open when night driving as a personal pref.

So I fixed the issue and I want to share how I did it 😁 I bought new part. Factory installed module V426 was number 5Q0907511A but part available in official distribution currently has new number 5WA907511C (note, that I write about part for Denso HVAC unit). Removing the dashboard is not required to replace V426/V428 module (in LHD vehicles) although the official service manual begins with this step. Access to this part is possible from the bottom - under steering column or as you prefer: above pedals. If you want to do that without removing the dashboard you should remove knee airbag (mounted on 3 torx screw) and next: remove left footwel vent (mounted on only one torx screw). You don't must unplug knee airbag, you just need to unscrew it and rest against on the center tunnel. When you remove this two parts, you get access to problematic servomotor. Be very careful when removing screws from V426, because when they fall, it will be very difficult to locate and remove them. With the screws removed, you remove the module from the climatronic mechanism axis, and then you need to unplug the plug - a small screwdriver may be useful, but there's not much space to work with both hands. In fact there is no space, so you have to work in a truly paralytic position. When you disconnect the plug, the module is ready to be removed. I have one advice for you: before you start unscrewing the module, restore power to the car and turn on the ignition. Next, turn on the ventilation and switch the airflow directions (face, feet, windshield) looking in front of the removed footwell vent, watch if the flaps inside the HVAC unit moves when you click the buttons on the air conditioning panel. In my case, the flaps were dead. Mounting new part - now the true play starts. Step one: connect the plug to new module but not try to mount it yet. Next: turn on ignition and try to choose combination of climatronic switches to set up new module in position which allows to to mounting its on axle of HVAC unit (in other words: you have to set the new motor in the same position as the old, disassembled module was in) When the axle and new part is synchronized, you mount servomotor on the place. Then you screw the motor with two screws: at the bottom and top. Installing the top mounting screw is dramatically difficult. Putting the top mounting screw is so heavy because there is no space at all to grab it with even two fingers. A moment of inattention and the screw drops, and its find is another challenge. When you screwed the motor with the two screws, turn on the ignition and check the flaps again during switching the airflow direction on the air conditioning panel. In my car the flaps came to life. You will also need to perform adaptation and read errors from the HVAC controller. The adaptation can be started on the air conditioning panel - turn on the airflow: to the windshield, to the legs and to the face vents, and then press "AC" + "front vents" buttons at the same time for 3 seconds. When its finish again check errors in HVAC module and clean them. If adaptation was finished correctly errors shouldn't back. During adaptation you can observing via left footwel vent that flaps are working right. At the end you mount again footwell vent and knee airbag and are you going for a test ride to testing that HVAC works right. If you unplugged battery you should also make test ride for few km's, next check and clear faults in all car modules. In authorized Skoda service center in Polad repair of this issue costs about 450 EUR (with dashboard and central tunnel removing). I repaired myself this fault for the price of about 70 EUR 🤭 However a lot of self-denial is required for made it. Good luck 😁 and sorry for my English...

Thanks for the answer tomorrow I will check the car definitely, but I am not sure about starting a Youtube career yet

For my engine/gearbox bolts becoming loose, I was beginning to hear noises when cornering more one direction than the other. Even if they are not visibly loose, worth a few minutes to check none are, then that can be eliminated. Other choice is to channel your inner Spielberg and create and star in your own YouTube video so we can see/hear what you do, keep it PG13 😆

Now I have checked ~7 -8 videos of failed DMF and I am certain that it is not my problem. In idle or when car it in gear when I move I do not hear any sound from gearbox.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Those Mikalor are spot held where the hold can corrode and come apart, better maybe is the Norma GBS heavy duty W2 or W4 stainless steel with bent over locking ("Mechanically locked"). - https://www.normagroup.com/norma/en/products/norma-gbs/?open&ccm=020030 Just as an eBay UK seller example only (W2). - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324657985550

I downloaded and installed version 0369. It took 17 minutes. Everything is great at the moment. thanksssss

Thanks. It looks a bit different but I ordered a couple.

that radiator hose is pretty cramped there... I always wondered, why they just didn't use 1.6 rad with outlet on the left side?

@Phoenixboyones that misbehave from cold starts do not need the weather to be as cold as O*oC or lower. A chill air temp below 10*oC might well show up poor cold starting and running. But dealers / traders cars can be sitting with fuel that has been in the tanks for weeks or months and that can be pre Winter Petrol & Diesel in the tank from before November. Many cars run well after they have had a few miles driven and fresh fuel in after being at an auction, moved about occasionally and maybe just had an Italian Tune up to get the cosmetic corrosion off the discs.

Thanks for your post. Much appreciated! I'll hope it fits.

Ok, I'm waiting for version 0369 from you.

Ok

Thanks warrior 193

I got a self healing Lumar paint protection film professionally installed on my rear bumper. Does not ruin the looks of the car and it is very hardly noticeable. Also, I think it is a better choice than the bumper protectors offered on the market as you could extend it below the bumper edge, so you have the whole loading area covered. A picture with the film installed:

It could drop anytime, or maybe they also release in small batches here and there. I do keep and eye on releases, but not seen Skoda update for 1896 to xxxx version.

It might be a few more week's/month's before there's an update. SEAT are on 1898, and VW I'm not sure, just the software is shared across the brand's, with adjustments made for each brand of course (boot logo's and such)

Ask your Skoda dealer, or UK Skoda (if UK) and they could provide you with a list of the PR codes for your car. One of them will tell you what's fitted. Sounds like ABS style TPMS type from your own tests.

It should have been replaced as part of the service plan but conveniently wasn't - I didn't notice until I got home as I was in a rush to get back to work. I don't have much confidence in their ability to diagnose/sort the oil temp issue, especially given that their first reaction was to 'update the software' and that seems to have broken my TSR. To me, the oil temp problem looks like a sensor issue but there is no associated issue with the oil level warning (I think that they share the same sensor). I had a look on erwin and there's no diagnostic advice around the issue so either they can't diagnose without guidance/fault code or they are unwilling to put any effort into figuring it out unless they're sure that Skoda will pay for it. I had a sense that they were uninterested. I'll chase them up on the issue in February and if there's no progress, I'll try another dealership.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I agree, despite knowing car batteries are often changed far too prematurely and how to look after them (takes very, very little effort) and how to use and not abuse (far too much effort or different priorities for some) I changed the battery on my wife's Fabia Mk3 far too prematurely as I didn't want any hassle from the car battery and how my wife wants to use and abuse the battery and not to be summoned to sort out a breakdown from "battery failure" and explain why I'd allowed this to happen as car work is my job not hers and I know that. Different people have different priorities, my wife and I certainly as regards any car battery use, there's also the recharging of a battery that's been flattened many don't have the time or patience, despite it being vey easy work, to properly and fully recharge the battery - and of course batteries don't last forever.

Seen this many many times car is jacked up people go around nushes and control arms pulling on tem and say "these are fine mate" 95% of the time the drop links are to blame you need to jack the car up support the body then jack up /tke the weight of the wheel one side and then start with a pry bar and start checking links bushes etc, looking new is not always a answer they need to be checked for wear, a steering rack issue could be the monts or if inner joints are worn it would clunck every time and you would have wandering issues and strange worn tyres

Thanks!

Hi toot. This is the response from the seller: "Just spoke to the previous owner on the phone, the engine in the car currently has a rebuild as the stem seals went which caused large oil consumption. The turbo is new, no invoices are available unfortunately as he doesn't have them anymore and I did not take them. Therefore DVLA did not need to be notified and the engine numbers remain the same, just new internals not sure how much of he engine was rebuild, could of been either a full or just top end. Most likely just a head rebuild."

Yes mine is 5 year warranty but all new Skodas are 7 year in Oz now. What’s my suspension got to do with my crunching DSG? BTW suspension is only a month old whereas DSG has been crunching for at least the last 18000km.

nta16 I decided to try keep the original EFB battery and after it successfully charged it seems to be working fine, not that we have had the -12 temperatures since. I will keep checking on it to make sure it is keeping charged OK.

Dealer rang me back this morning and said that with the DQ 250 the whole unit is replaced as one complete DSG (mechatronics and clutch pack). So brand spanking new DSG and first drive it crunches from 2nd to 1st. Not happy.

The lower end batteries still have them, if you go for a Halfords battery with a 3 year guarantee it will have the vent and possibly a little red elbow piece to attach a tube. The better range of batteries they sell like the Calcium ones that have 4 year guarantee do not have a vent.

Same fault on my 2021 Sportline Mk111 facelift. Fixed with a software and hardware update, by supplying dealer under threat of rejection. Worked for me If you're playing the 30 day card I would insist that the SUPPLYING DEALER fix the car or they can have it back. You want a motivated repair done now, not in somebodies else's service queue Also they can't then say, not our fault we didn't repair it, you didn't bring it back to us etc etc Hope it gets fixed and you keep the car, let us know how it goes

I've had my 1.2tsi for nearly ten years now coming to it from a Volvo V50 which was a 1.8 (1.9?) litre diesel with about 30 bhp on the Yeti (from memory), at least on paper. I can honestly say in day-to-day use I never noticed the difference, only that the Yeti was more fun to own and drive and has proved a darned sight more reliable. Over the years I've done several holidays in the West Country with four adults, one large and two small dogs and all the luggage for a self catering holiday (and my wife doesn't understand the concept of "pack light" so I had a large top box on the roof)) and it coped with all the hills very well - changing down a bit earlier than usual and being realistic about acceleration when needed. I'd suggest finding a 1.2tsi for a test drive you will then know if there is enough oomph there for you or whether you need to start the search for a much harder to find 1.4 or 1.8. I have a sunroof but as you are now looking at cars 6+ years old personally I'd avoid it if you have a choice. I'm so pleased with the car that even at nearly 10 years old, and with second hand prices so good, I still have no plans to change it.

There are issues there long term with 1.5 TSI's. & we have not been long term yet know how they go. There was the early Kangerooing. That should be sorted, not all are. They are more complex with ACT, but fingers crossed. They have a GPF, time will tell. The Cam Belt and tensioner replacement at 5 years is more expensive than with a 1.4 TSI. So hopefully newer is better, but that is not always the case. Tried and tested can be better on the wallet.

I’ve had sunroofs fitted at build in the past and would never have one again. They’re a PITA to keep the drains clear and never used them once AC became the norm.

Our March 2016 280 is is Euro 6 compliant.

I keep in mind the temperature range first, an example: https://www.thehosemaster.co.uk/l375-hot-water-car-heater-hose Although it's from ALFAGOMMA and for cooling systems i would't use it for our main coolant hose.

Ours is a March 21 which seems to be referred to as a 206kw but is also referred to as a 280 - was under the impression it’s different to the 272… has 7speed wet clutch. Def prefer the L&K look especially if subtlety is a requirement but not as if the Sportline is garish. Agree with previous comments that some features like digital dash were rarely specked on Sportlines from what I could find. As for sunroof my previous was a Kia Sportage and the panoramic roof was fine. That’s a difference between hatch and estate - former has sunroof, latter has panoramic.

A sunroof is great, but can cause grief. The pano on my 2014 Octy vRS estate was faultless, but the pano (really a wide sunroof) on my 2019 Kia Stinger GTS was a rattly nightmare. I doubt I will buy a car with a sunroof again.

https://laga.se/bil/oem/6R7937087R Not sure if that is any good for you price wise, but that should work with your car. Any of these should work 6R7 937 087 H Z00 6R7 937 087 K Z00 6R7 937 087 M Z00 6R7 937 087 P Z00 6R7 937 087 R Z00 6R7 937 087 R Z0J

Neither are on sale in UK anymore, (although there are outstanding orders) But with same basic power plant, although with different settings, it is mainly what features are fitted and the trim, some of the changes are cosmetic (for looks) rather than function differently

Just completed 200 miles with the car so far, with the last journey of 180 miles return on motorways, A and B roads. The fuel consumption (driven at traffic speed) is shown as 57mpg. Impressive stuff!

Sensor for sure.