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Not at all. The mit silikat bag is the old part number and it supersedes to a new one without the silikat bag. That in no way voids any warranty. The person above is being taken for a ride by the dealer that doesnt know what theyre talking about (no surprise there)

All I can do is repeat myself. If your stock byte 18 is 00 (00000000) don't mess with it! The lighting configuration on this age of car is mostly contained within some 40-50 bytes in the BCM EEPROM. If you set byte 18 to a non zero value, it will overwrite this section of EEPROM with a new configuration. If your stock byte 18 is 00, this typically means that none of the byte 18 values contain the correct lighting configuration for your car and instead, the factory tool had to set the lighting configuration directly in the EEPROM. If you change it, you CANNOT get the original configuration back using VCDS as it's unable to directly access the EEPROM. Just as an example, the Yeti came with multiple lighting options which would require different configurations and yet there is only single byte 18 option for a Yeti. I would expect 1D is close to your original config but given your byte 18 is 00, it will not match it identically. As for 1C, I expect that just zero's the entire lighting config. It will not clear lighting fault codes... If you really want to mess with the lighting config, you need VCP or ODIS as they can backup the original config and allow targeted changes to each lighting channel. I have nothing more to add. You've been warned so good luck 👍

A few from a very cold Rufford Park this evening 🥶

It will be very interesting and I hope rewarding to hear the news.

It makes me wonder if the previous owner was faced with a similar diagnosis and quote? I have bought cheap many cars with problems that I have eventually resolved by determination and a lot of mental effort, in every case they had been sold on and on making their way through the trade to private owners and back again a few times before they ended up with me, the cheap buyer of expensive problems! I have seen some misdiagnosis and scary quotes in my time all of which missed the actual fault caused by the servicing dealers incompetence but £9K for a missing O ring if that is the case here takes it to a new level, its 100% believable sadly and I really hope that it is the case for the OP.

Oh boy. Sigh. Slightly bad news there then..... I can only assume they are *very* confident there is a big issue that can't be fixed but I'd want to / need to - understand their diagnosis process and what's ruled out before opening my wallet for £9k+.!!!!!! Can you ask to speak to the diagnosing tech or even better ask for a report on the diagnosis and tests carried out and conclusion so far. You may well have to pay for their work so far irrespective, but that's probably fair in most instances. Unless they said something else at the outset.. I know you changed the filter earlier but the drain rod that sits in the centre and connecting to the inside plastic filter housing cover. It usually comes out when you pull out the cap. Does this look intact and orings ok and fit positively into drain recess beneath oil filter when you remove / refit? Definitely? There is an updated spring tensioned version rather than the stick version my my16 came with but if it is sealing either version should work. I put the newer version in mine. If it does not seal the drain below the filter it will cause oil pressure problems 100pc. It allows the oil to drain out as you remove the cap. If they have dismissed replacing the oil pump they must believe there are massive bearing journal clearances creating lack of pressure.. that's my current hypothesis of what they're thinking. But how have they reached it or what ever their actual diagnosis is.. . Is important to you clearly. Is the car manual? Does it have upgraded clutch items? I hope they're wrong but if their experience and reputation is good and there is good evidence of diagnosis of why they've said this. At this point, I can't make an opinion on it. But clearly the response is massively concerning. You'd think they would be aware you gonna want a little bit more discussion than a phonecall for auth of £9k!! Or have your car back, it can't be fixed. Maybe they will fill the missing pieces on collection...

You have bought products that claim to be like-for-like replacement compatible with your car. When installed, you car returns error messages about the new products. Why do you assume it is your car that is at fault here and needs a remedy applying to it, and not in fact the bulbs you bought which are the problem? Can you not return the products you bought because they do not work as advertised?

UK Government seems to back EV manufacture with loads of UK tax payer's money by putting hundred of millions of pounds in to the Nissan plant near Sunderland........ https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-67517522 UK's Gilts ie the government bonds, have been falling in value since the Autumn Statement as faith in the UK economy continue to ebb lower. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Nissan to lead £2bn investment in UK electric car plant Nissan and its partners have announced a £2bn plan to build three electric car models at its Sunderland factory. The Japanese firm will build electric Qashqai and Juke models at the plant alongside the next generation of the electric Leaf, which is already produced there. The scheme could help preserve the jobs of about 6,000 workers directly, and thousands more across the UK. Nissan said that alongside this, a major new battery plant known as a "gigafactory" will also be needed. This is in addition to the current factory adjacent to the car plant, and a further gigafactory already being built by its partner, AESC. Nissan will spend £1.12bn on preparing its UK facilities and supply chain for the new models and training its workforce. Alongside the gigafactory the total new investment will be up to £2bn, according to the company. The UK government has provided support for Nissan through the Automotive Transformation Fund, which received a £2bn top-up in the Autumn Statement on Wednesday. Mr Johnson declined to comment on how much funding the company has received from UK taxpayers. He said: "The support we have received in the past has been excellent and we're very grateful for the support we do receive. "The truth is discussions are ongoing with the government, not concluded, and therefore I'm not in a position at the moment to make any announcement or any comment about any numbers." Brexit In the summer, Mr Gupta also warned that the UK's largest car manufacturing plant in Sunderland would be "unsustainable" without a post-Brexit trade deal on tariffs. Rules due to take effect in January next year mean there will be a 10% tariff on cars sold between the UK and EU unless carmakers have sourced at least 45% of their components by value from the UK or EU. Batteries are the most expensive part of an electric vehicle, and some manufacturers in both the UK and EU have said they will struggle to meet the requirements, and have called for the rules to be deferred.

So is the granny cable quite efficient ie close to 90% then ? My Pod Point is only a 3.6 kw one, I was being a bit tight and save £100 rather than going for the 7.2 kW version so it only cost me £449. Granny cable was £129 or so I recall. Works at 10A, 220/240v. Both seem fine in terms of efficiency, close enough to 90% to not really bother but yes alway worth noting that one pays for 100% of the energy used at home or public charger but "only" about 90% gets in to the battery as stored charge with the other 10% being waste heat but a little bit of humming as noise. Still way better than a 35% ICE at converting chemical energy in to motion.

I wont watch the rant thanks, I thought it was the presenter I remembered from way back when and who grated on me even back then, as you say it was surprisingly civil.

DSG Wet 6 or 7 speed or Dry 7 speed are different and there can be a quick kick down 1/4 pedal or a kick down when on a accelerator lower, depending on modes, engine powers, generation of DSG. So the OP has a PHEV with a 1.4 TSI and a DSG which is running Management / Software to suit running as an ICE or in EV more. A DQ400-e 6 speed DSG. So apples and pears, oranges and lemons, Similar to other DSG,s, totally different from TQ Autos. ................. Remember regardless of any Dealership staff not knowing what is what, it gets Oil Changes every 40,000 miles. It is a 6 speed Wet. The Engine Oil / Service is fixed so annual / 9,400 miles.

That reaction of the gearbox might just be the normal one - the kickdown effect as @Paws4Thot mentioned. If you're in Sport mode the gearbox is a lot more reactive than in Normal (or D), so I wouldn't worry about it... If you were unsure whether it was you the one who triggered the response, you could have watched the VC for the gear indicator: if it was you, the indicator would have said "M3", if it was the kickdown in automatic mode the display would have been "S3".

The Moon and Jupiter last night

I think this is called "normal design operation", or "kickdown".

The diagram is made to confuse the hell out of people. To me it is useless, and the single reason I posted the "last version" of it is that you mentioned my initial diagram was issued before your owner's manual edition. So rest assured that what you know about oil engines now is enough to allow you select the best engine oil for your car. My conclusions about this (futile) endless topic are below. They will allow you to choose the perfect compromise for your engine lubrication. First, you have to respect the PERFORMANCE LEVEL recommendation of the manufacturer of the engine oil. In our case, it is the VW standard. Then you have to choose the SAE viscosity grade (xW-y) of the engine oil x refers to the viscosity grade at lowest, constant winter outside temperature (WOT) in your area. An empirical formula is this: x = WOT + 35. y refers to the viscosity grade when the engine is running at its optimum temperature (roughly 100°C). Since Felicia has not an oil radiator to compensate for high engine loads and high summer outside temperatures (SOT), y must be correlated with SOT. Again, an empirical formula is this: y = SOT. That is about it. I would not beat this subject to death or lose sleep for scientific details. If you want to keep your Felicia engine happy, drive it without beating it to hell and change your engine oil as often as your pocket allows. Remember you are not driving a rally car, but a small family car which put a smile on our face for being reliable, easy and cheap to maintain. Here is a video that explains what I wrote above in more detail.

Read all the suggestions here and then chose the one that works best for you. And ignore the pointless squabbling. 😂

The display has component protection so not a DIY replacement unfortunately

This one took me a while to trace, so I thought I'd document it to maybe help others. Fault - (2009 Fabia 1.2 Hatchback, BBM) Door open light and chime and interior lights coming on at random whilst driving and stationary. Fault was intermittent so made it harder to test. Summary - Opening and closing each of the doors wasn't conclusive but I thought it was drivers door when I could get the fault to occur. I read up on here and then checked the wiring in A pillar bellows (all looked good unusually), so I then removed the door latch mechanism as described in posts on here. I tested the latch micro switch on the bench and all seemed good. I checked the PCB contacts for the connector and switches both visually and with meter for continuity and all seemed good. I ran 9v from a battery through switch and all good. I then removed the complete door loom (a little fiddly but it can be done without removing the speaker) and double checked all wires - all good. Having not found any problem with door lock mechanism or door loom I decided to put it back together and reinstall without changing micro switches or re-soldering so as not to disturb anything. I then looked at wiring diagrams in posts on here to see if something else could be happening. It showed that the door latch circuit has two wires (brown, brown/yellow) and when the door is open then these connect in the latch micro switch and earth is supplied to the brown/yellow cable and that feeds back through the bellows to the Convenience unit under the dash. However, there is another brown/yellow cable that goes from the same pin in the bellows connector to the Window Motor/Door Control (not sure why). This meant I could easily test the state of both brown/yellow wires at the window motor connector with the door in operation (have door open all the time and just use a screwdriver to push the door catch cam all the way in to simulate it being closed). Doing this when the connector was off the window motor I was able to see the door catch micro switch always operated perfectly and only completed the earth circuit when the door was open (and the dash light operated correctly). However, when I reconnected the connector to the window motor, that wire was earthed intermittently and caused the dash door open warn light to come on even when door was closed. So I concluded the window motor was incorrectly earthing out the circuit and causing the fault. As an aside, using this window motor connector (status of brown/yellow wire when unplugged) would be a good way to test the door micro-switch operation without needing to dismantle door catch as easier to get to than the bellows connector and allows window motor to be excluded from the test (as its unplugged). So I then decided to strip the window motor as couldn't find much info on here. First time stripping it came apart completely and I found a very tiny spot of green corrosion, some metal filings, but not much else so I cleaned and sealed up the pins on the board with PCB varnish thinking it was maybe just moisture or filings causing a short. Reassembled, tested, just the same fault.... So took it off again (three screws, easy), and second stripping it came apart in better way and PCB easier to access. I tested what i could with a meter for continuity of soldered joints behind main connector, but everything else was tiny SMD stuff so beyond me. I didn't find a fault but decided to reflow the solder on the connector joints as they cause issues elsewhere (dash, lock pcb etc). They are small and fiddly, but I got it done and then added PCB varnish on top. Reassembled everything, and everything now works as it should - the original fault of door open light coming on has not happened since. I did look at replacement window motors before i stripped it and there are many versions, and some are costly, so this might be an option to try before going that route. The circuit board is small and I couldn't see detail that well (corrosion, joints, filings, etc) so I zoomed in on camera and took lots of photos, then zoomed in again whilst viewing and surprising what can be seen then! Some pics below, but they are just a fraction of the couple of hundred I must have taken.... Testing the door latch on bench (now know this could have been avoided by testing in situ through the window motor connector) Model of window motor on this 2009 1.2 hatchback Window motor connector (brown/yellow at bottom right here is the wire that should be earthed when latch closed (test with connector unplugged from window motor to test latch micro switch first, then plugged in to see if Window motor is providing a false earth). Connector block on Window Motor PCB, - small amounts of corrosion, but perhaps more under the block itself, but didn't fancy trying to remove. PCB from Window Motor with my thumb for scale (board is small....) - I reflowed solder on back of connector block (the 14 blobs in the middle - they look a bit domed but connectivity was good and I was concerned at leaving too much heat on the pads with all those SMD's around...) PCB Varnish added on top to seal out any moisture. Hope that helps someone. I have more pics of dismantling things is required (but there was a 10mb limit on this post).

Well enough was enough, my local dealer is great but my 3yr old Octavia was becoming a permanent resident in their workshop due to that notorious infotainment system and its hard/soft ware issues - I would also say it is a dangerous design, fine if youve a passenger to use it but not for the driver...so what next, well happy with dealer (question on how good skoda uk is) but I stayed and now have a Karoq, I can now use the infotainment system , I was tempted by another Octavia as they might have sorted it but didn't want the risk, all cars have issues but my last Octavia oh my gord no (shame as it was my 4th Ocy)

Our 2019 4x4 272 estate is now for sale. We are the second owners, the previous being Sinclair Skoda of Swansea who clocked up 321 miles only. Black Magic with a full VW /Audi/ Skoda/Seat specialist service history, at 9k, 16k, 26k, 35k and 43k with the final service including a gearbox and Haldex service. Mileage currently sits at 52k and will not change, as its not being used. The car has a panoramic sunroof, winter pack, Canton, detachable towbar, 4 good pirellis. Price is £20k

A 2-2 level degree, or two two, or tutu, like cockney ryming slang, Desmond Tutu.

No you are right. The plain black with red stitching are original. I ordered originals from kopacek (super Skoda) in Czech Republic. Just make sure they are RHD. They were €99 delivered to Ireland. You can get black with red stitching from various sellers in Uk for half the price but I prefer the original ones.

Use to do that in Canada when it was -40 (same in C and F as it is the crossover point) Then we got car engine block heaters and little posts in the parking lot which I first thought were the crappiest EV chargers I had seen then it twigged after a couple of seconds what there were. But then this was Alberta where minus 40 is not unknown and even when most the coolant is Glycol it is starting to go solid. So no degree then ?

Could be related but only a one on four chance that it would have been that wheel speed sensor, you really need to check with something like VCDS where you can look at live data and see any intermittent bad signals. You dont need to delete the fault codes for the dash lights to go out but if a sensor is still bad they will come on again on each start up or during the journey if intermittent.

And I was so looking forward to witnessing end stage grief! I have a feeling that unlike you Graham when wyx087 says he is not going to respond any further that is what he will do or he will at least pause for breath.

No, it's inside the plenum but cycling the temperature between full cold and full heat will sometimes unstick it, sit in the car after driving home and put the blower on full and twist the knob one way, wait ten seconds then twist it the other way, do this until you can feel it getting better.

They are accurate enough. (They are not accurate as to what they say the speedo might read or under read as they over read with the OEM tyres on.) All i am saying is when you have different tyres, new or used, run the tape measure around them. Tyre off the rim and tyres on the rim and inflated and sometimes there can be just a ba,s hair of a difference. eg a new 205/40 R 17 Dunlop Sportmaxx does not measure the same as new 205/40 R Pirelli Zero Nero. Which can measure the same as a 215/40 R 70 from another brand.

On the contrary, this latest flare up is because you feel the need to defend diesel. This is completely unrelated to Zoe battery venting positions. I saw an article making a very valid point, you shot it down. I saw similar stat from root attached guidance paper, you decide you need to talk about how diesels couldn’t catch fire from lit match, as though it is relatable. I don’t have fire fighting experience, but I do have scientific and engineering background and know when to start believe publications. (Agreeable data from multiple sources)

Ha. Yes. The spring must be a bypass. But my car just came with the stick originally which can't do such a thing for sure as you say at original as supplied mfr. Edit. In the new version part there's 2 different springs as well!!! A lot of complication for what was a simple stick and oring drain plug!! I "upgraded" to the new part just because I read in several threads that it was improved, but there was never explanation of how, why!!

I'm extremely confused, I thought this bit means max or very high RPM. But it is my experience that keeping RPM at lower than 2000 seems to give best efficiency for 2.0 TDI Octy.

I regularly drive a near 20 mile trip each way and have done for 35 years and have a choice of 2 different roads to do it and can do it at any speed with only a couple of junctions and often there is no traffic. Always in Automatics though. Inland to the coast and then return coast to inland. Tried is in all sorts of speeds & done it in all weathers / seasons and some vehicles are more efficient going quicker. Keeping to 20-30 mph is seldom the most efficient speed to be doing it in a turbo petrol, diesel or EV. A bit faster, coasting and then getting up to speed works just fine and the average speed might be between 40-45 mph. That is now a bit less these days as 2 villages now have 20 mph speed limits where they used to be 30 mph.

Always a doubting Thomas about. People who posted in the threads might remember they did... Does nobody just look at the forum or use a search? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/511114-my-skoda-octavia-mk3-got-on-fire http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/457559-octavia-diesel-vrs-thermal-incident

Most have a motor mounted on a single speed reduction gearbox driving a transaxle with a differential.

Depends on what type of ICE. Diesels are fair bit higher than petrol though petrol have caught up a lot. Diesel with hybrid is even more efficient as an overall package of course but pricey. ICE diesel engines in ships ie Slow speed marine diesels are close to 50% overall efficiency and considered overall, where one is generating massive of "free electricity" by using a diesecon unit ie creating super-heated steam from the exhaust to make MWs of electricity as a free bi-product the overall efficeincy is north of 50% but then one does need the space of a ten story building with about a 2500 sq metre base to achieve this. Thermo electric generators could find a place in automotive soon, replace the alternator and provide free electrical power for a hybrid system and hence jack up the overall thermal efficiency by several percentage points.

Hi @Gerrycan yeah i just meant I'm not reving it as high. Yes you are correct comparing it in Briskoda is not totally reliable because of those reasons mentioned, but I just wanted to see as others have the same vehicle or similar. Not really looking forward to dealing with the dealer if it comes to that. I've read so many people have these negative experiences with them. That's pretty good for your car. Yes as a new one I thought it would be better but I'm willing to wait and see. I've noted all the suggestions. I'll take them into consideration and act upon them, thank you. Yes I first thought that long term was accumulation over the lifetime of the car. i now know it isn't I did manage though to find an instant l/h on the cockpit as I believe @kreeker suggested. I took a photo whilst it was idling in neutral/Park waiting for the wife, It was idling at 0.9l/h engine. The Just had returned from a short trip. So not driving it too much today short trips. I will need to do bigger drives, to see how it goes in the long country drives included.

Kickdown in a torque-converter automatic gearbox is usually a pretty dramatic push - that's exactly what its for - I'd expect the DSG to be no less so.

Well if VW don't slip their schedule backwards you should see it any time soon. In the past they leave from work on a Friday early (a German thing) and the maps just appear on the servers but not linked to the webpage yet. Might be this Friday or next, you never know. Often the weekend is the period when they get spotted. MartiniB I'm sure is running his sniffer code as others. The VW release is the gold standard. Skoda and Seat have historic releases sometimes that VW don't have / markets that VW don't operate in. Whilst Audi keep theirs under wrap, VIN protected via a login with the mapcare three year imposed just to get in knowing what the user has purchased. That's why we see Audi drivers on Skoda boards they are running long life FeCs and are outside of the imposition Audi apply via the website (all in one custom firmware with long life navigation FeCs / mib 2 high tool box adjusted FeCs). You learn something almost every day. Was nice to see the November 350 released by the back door from Audi. That's perfectly good to use at this time. I wont be updating to the VW / Skoda one this year November since I've got it already. They are common releases across platforms so one is equivalent to the other except in this case Audi have their own mib 2 high only one, mib 1 high only ones splitting out the combined release. Probably done to keep within the 32gb card limit. Audi are indeed the brains of the Vag group. Well if we discover the Audi release is significantly different to the VW / Skoda / Seat release would it be worth re-installing it again. Hence a comparison file check when we see it.

Hi mate. My 2022 RS is averaging about 7l/100km. Got 12000km's on it. Runs mainly on 95RON. Best I've got so far was 6.2km/100km's. Hope this helps.

Sorry, got caught up with a project at work. Technically no resolution as yet. They acknowledged all the faults and spoke to Skoda who had never seen this before. They couldn't replicate the error in the workshop overnight. They've left the ticket open and have given me clear instructions on what to film next time it happens. They swapped some relays around again and put in a new starter button. Kinda feels like throwing solutions until something sticks but at least I feel heard. The dealer principle ended coming out and was nice. Interrupted the kid on the front counter telling me Skoda don't know what they're talking about and that they shouldn't have told me that I'd get a loan car as ther3s no way that will happen. Got a loan car though.... He just greased me off until I left and then again following day. Needless to say he won't be getting a Christmas card from me. The rest of the dealership is nice, shame he let's the team down. I'll upload a video of what happens next time it does. Stupid mistake I didn't this time....

Hi Viejita, It definitely seems to be a problem with the driver’s side window motor as I have taken the fuse out for the windows and the doors lock normally and door open light has gone off. I have yet to change the motor but as everything else works now it seems to be pointing to this. I plan to change it in a couple of weeks and will let you know how things go.

During the autumn I get it fairly frequently caused by dew over the sensor. Where I am I often get moisture settle on the windscreen etc over the first few hundred meters early in the day because the car is parked in deep shade and cold in the morning so drive into warmer moist air.

Surprisingly civil from Robert. I've seen so many rants from him. I personally prefer Jack for car reviews on that channel. This might be a different Robert? For smart meter, it's helping the grid and everyone to get cheaper energy. Have a think, electricity prices varies greatly throughout the day. If they are willing to pay over £2 per kWh for people to use less, how much it must be costing them to produce a kWh during that time? I helped last week by saving 1.22 kWh:

Easiest thing would be to put the incandescent bulbs back and make sure everything is OK, then compare to the the resistance of these shonky LEDS, calculate a suitable shunt resistor using the parallel resistor equation and source some making sure they have enough current carrying capacity, then you will have the white light that you seem to desire and twice as many potential future electrical faults. Pretty soon people will be hankering after yellow lights and I will be cool again 😄

I like the full logo they use on the back of Chinese cars. It's kitsch, but I like it. (I noticed it as I'm watching a lot of Chinese origin dashcam crash videos at the moment.)

As I understand it that's total, no option to change vins after 12 months. There's an option to upgrade from 3 to 10 or unlimited at any time. It's not a time based subscription, once you've paid it's yours for ever.

Maybe my post do not complies with forum rules and I am so sorry if I'm doing something wrong, but this situation is really serious and against the warranty law: Skoda refuses to fix it, asks for money, with truly incoherent and embarrassing excuses although there is a solution! So I decided to do an upload of the 8755 software file in hopes of doing some good. https://uploadnow.io/f/3J8v0Br The absurd thing is that many Skoda assistance centers throughout Europe are unaware of the existence of this firmware and they don't even know why. An assistance center, who learned of its existence through me, told me that in official documents 8755 results as compatible only with 695 hardware, but it is not true, as seems that some of you can confirm. The further absurdity? Swing Plus produced since mid-2020 already have the 8755 installed. You can find it by searching, in Google images, "8755 MIB2" or "8755 696", "8755 695" and so on: you will find external labels of the hardware showing the software number. Why are Skoda and VW doing all this to us? We should file a class action and seek compensation, also to avoid other similar problems in the future, but evidently it's one of those situations where solving it ourselves it's more realistic.. and costless. After having struggled for a long time in vain, after being blamed and being told that - the phone is bad or too new (later discovering that it is expressly declared compatible by Skoda) - our cable is faulty, buy another one - to buy the Volkswagen cable which costs a lot and is much worse etc. etc. , all without any written trace, other than threatening them. What a shame.

300 miles and 3 weeks since I changed the EVAP canister/charcoal filter - and no more warning lights. The part number for the canister is 6C0201801A and cost me £82.92 - part number courtesy of Breezy_Pete - so thanks much for this. Couldn't get it through my local parts store but my mechanic was able to source it. Forgot to mention I was also getting a P04F0 code sometimes - but not always. Removal and installation is straightforward - take off the back wheel under the filler cap to access the plastic wheel arch liner. remove all screws and then the liner itself, The canister will be right in front of you. Remove the 10mm retaining bolt underneath and slide the canister off its bracket. Push a flathead screwdriver into the resctangular lug to release the the white plastic locking ring on the hose clamp fittings, and then swap out the canisters. Put everything back together and you're done. If you're unfamiliar with EVAP systems here's an explainer https://www.nyvip.org/PublicSite/OBDII/evap.html#:~:text=The Evaporative Emission Control System,powered vehicles since the 1970s. I dealt with 2 mechanics here who had never had to change one of these. They're not on the service schedule. If you've found your way here and haven't already changed out the sensor and piping harness I'd reckon change the canister first. Especially if you have been filling your tank past the first click - as I had done and as Andymod says above is a no no. Many thanks to the all the folks on this thread and also this one: Cheers

Hi there, Both mine are the same size and larger but the driver side had a dotted line and then more of a wide angle. There both manual and not heated. Thanks for the part number info. I will get in touch with a few scrap yards in the uk and see what they come up with. There used to be a few near me but now down to one that sells parts. Everything else is crushed on arrival. I assume the after market one I bought is for a LHD vehicle passenger side as it was listed as equivalent to 6y1 I got the part number off 7zap but must have looked up a LHD vehicle by mistake.Managed to repair the old one for now to keep me going. Many thanks again Alasdair

If you look at my chart earlier in this thread, it seems to be an annual event. The mpg recorded is the rolling average of 4 fill ups rather than individual tankfuls. I can only guess that its a combination of temperature, humidity, lights on, & change to winter fuel. I fill up at the same petrol station, usually the same pump even and have done for the last 3 years, every Friday morning. As you say 55mpg is pretty good.

Not everyone has a Tesla and cold weather need not be extreme to have people needing to plan to get places and back and charging and not a load of time charging.