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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/06/25 in Posts

  1. Hi, I've done it once with VCDS. I don't know VAWS 3.0 and if there are any difference. Here is the procedure with VCDS: 1) Ignition on, engine off, handbrake released, foot NOT on brake pedal, open 03-ABS > Basic setting. Then look for "Start lining change" or something to that effect in the drop down menu. 2) Piston is then pushed back, do not wind, you'll break it. 3) No tool needed, a lever bar between disc and pad or flat screw driver, G clamp or any other tool will work to push back 4) Once pads changed and caliper refitted (and spring as well), pump the brake pedal lots till full contact is made 5) Ignition on, engine off, foot NOT on brake, open 03-ABS > Basic settings. Then look for "End lining change" in the drop down menu, wait till its done (roughly 40 seconds). This enables the handbrake learning the new rear pad thickness in order to adjust the correct pressure to apply, when handbrake is ON. 6) Cycle ignition, put handbrake on and off a few times, done. Don't forget to brake gently for 200km or so to bed the pads... 😉 Hope this helps.
  2. 2 points
    Hi all. I’m new here even if my car is not so new
  3. Have we made the right decision? I've been dormant for a few years but my Skoda Mk III ordered in 2015 is still with me and now at 157,000 miles. Wife has now ordered an Elroq in super quick time. She has not even test driven it having left that to me. My question is have we made the right decision and I KNOW I should have looked here first but frankly was unable to log in via my iphone and with Elroq not showing on the list of cars I thought the website may have died. Tried on my pc just now and I see you are still up and running. I am sure as we get used to our new baby we will be here more often than I need to than the fully matured adult of the Superb!
  4. I'm not sure if i'm understanding this thread correctly... Has the timing chain actually gone and caused further engine damage? Quite an important detail missing here. I'd expect to pay anywhere in the region of £2,000-£5,000 to repair the aftermath of a failed timing chain. But just to get it replaced that's absurd.
  5. Same here. No dilemma which one to choose! The right engine for that car is 2.0 tsi, no doubts. Every time when I drive it, and just press the acceleration pedal, the smile is coming on my face. F*ck that 1-2 litters petrol on top...
  6. Thanks for checking. At least the driver's door is locked when I press the button as I can check that from inside with the window down. I'll get someone to check the other doors.
  7. @GuyIncognito The simple answer to your question is Yes, if the car was serviced by any Skoda main dealer. If the car has had work done by specialists then depending on if they sign up to be able to update the online service history or not there may be gaps. If you go to a Skoda garage with the VIN and the Reg, they may help you and give you a printout of the official online history. If they do it will be as a favour, it's not something you can demand.
  8. Update: Wigan alternators tested the alternator this morning and conceded a diode must be leaking. The unit was replaced and I've just put the alternator back on the car and so far so good! the alternator is not causing any unwanted current drain. So it would appear that I was unlucky enough to have two faulty replacement units. Out of interest, there is a 5A fuse for the "Phone" circuit in the engine bay fuse box. This now seems to be drawing 200mA when the car is asleep... it may turn off after a while but what is the actually powering ? Since there is not a phone in the car. Thanks again,
  9. Absolutely. From what I can see, you can expect a bump in power to 210-220bhp, and torque to 430-450nm. That's a very healthy increase! The only real reason you'd need a TCU tune is to increase the clamping force of the clutches to cope with the increased torque. Do you know what box you have? I think it'll be a DQ250 (6 speed) or 7 speed DQ381.
  10. It's a sad farewell, after 9 years and 165k miles of faultless driving the old girl, a Superb 170 Combi has been retired (from this household anyway). She has been replaced with a Volvo V90. She will always have a place in my heart ❤️ Just a shout out to this forum, its a great site, really helpful when help was required and just a good place to be to catch up with what was going on in Skoda world. I'm sure our paths will meet again in the future. 😁
  11. I am very impressed, I must say though I do miss the skoda. The gearbox was better in the skoda
  12. Thanks. Just got to wait for the postman now.
  13. Steve153, thank you all good. You have saved me looking on Octopus.... hopefully it will be added at some point. Being a long time Superb owner myself and having lost one of my two umbrellas I had my wife ask for another brolley are part of the deal to buy the car yesterday :+)... Another brolley going in the 85 on arrival as well.
  14. Thank you so much for all Breezy_Pete, I will update you accordingly... Cheers!
  15. Hello and nice to meet you all, I bought my Skoda superb couple months ago. Absolutely enjoying driving it. Have couple problems but nothing major so I found this wonderful website/forum hope to learn and interact with you guys. I am from South west of uk. Thanks for having me here.
  16. Hi there. Just wanted to post a message to say hi. Did join a while ago as purchased a Yeti, but then it had to go back within a month for issues. so not posted. Hoping to get back into Skoda ownership shortly, so thought it would be rude not to say Hi. Thanks Dave
  17. Hi Everyone! Just a quick hello from near Sunny Swindon. Three Superb Estates in the last 9 years or so. All diesel, most with factory tow-bar and heated rear seats (for those future runs to the Pyrenees), and the last with Matrix LED lights. I love them, but they have become like HAL! Cheers Jon
  18. Just a quick hello from a currently sunny Pembrokeshire - I drive an Octavia 1.6tdi (2016), have had it since November, prior to that it was a Bongo, will be posting in the technical section soon due to issues with the Octavia but thought it best to introduce myself first :)
  19. 1 point
    Hello everyone, Happy to join here since buying my mk3 octavia vrs challenge! huge step up from my 2012 diesel focus! corrida red hatch
  20. Returning Skoda user, but first time forum member. Recently took ownership of the Enyaq Coupe Sportline and have to say so far I am quite impressed. Anyway just wanted to say Hi.
  21. 1 point
    Hi All, Old viewer, looking for help, so made jump to register. Thanks
  22. OK, a 1.4 16V petrol. Yours probably has a combined engine cover/air filter rather than the silly cone filter in this image, and it may be easier to see where you need to if you remove that engine cover, but that may not be necessary. Look vertically downward, preferably with a torch, in the area where the orange ring is, trying to see something similar to the image I posted above, possibly with a wire floating around loose.
  23. Giacomo. Thanks for your message. As far as I remember a base 1000cc engine, I don't have all details with me at moment, I have decided to visit the auto shop to try and get a face to face update. I have had an offer from a mechanic friend who has the VAG software terminal in that he will have a look at it if needs be. Let's see what response I get. Adrian On phone again one finger typing.
  24. Phoning is better than the public facing web interface; real humans can look stuff up via other routes, like I just did. Right rear wheel speed sensor for your car has genuine part number WHT 003 858, and the relevant PR-code is 1X0.
  25. Thanks will have a look at it later, however will need a Bigger stick Cheers for the help @travs many thanks downloading now!
  26. No, you have the most recent firmware for your unit. Nope, you have the most recent version for your unit.
  27. Okay. Firstly, nice job on the hubs and replacement calipers. No job is wasted - it's just one more thing to rule out. That being said, I think we have found your problem. In the first video, you get the issue with the caliper off. That sounds to me like it's the wheel bearing. Normally you get a grinding noise, but the squealing can be an early sign of it going. If it was on the front then that's a different story, but IMO I would take a look at the bearing. IIRC I was quoted £380 from Skoda. Picked it up from Skoda-parts.com for I think £270. Cheapest was Fish Brother Skoda Parts in Swindon, which I think were slightly cheaper. Do you have anything planned for the old calipers? Might be worth giving them a service and selling - manual handbrake 310mm calipers are quite hard to come by.
  28. @YavorB To give you an idea, the 2.0 TSI 4x4 engine typically consumes about 1–2 liters more than the 2.0 TDI 4x4 under similar driving conditions. For example, on the highway at a steady speed of 140 km/h, the 2.0 TSI 4x4 averages around 8–8.5 liters per 100 km. The best thing you can do is take both versions for a test drive. That way, you’ll get a real feel for which one suits your driving style and preferences better. I faced the same dilemma myself, and in the end, I chose the 2.0 TSI and I’m very happy with it.
  29. Personally I want ethanol with a turbo petrol that can deal with it.
  30. 1 point
    Hi from a fellow mk2 estate owner also own an Enyaq
  31. I'm also looking for this update MST2_eu_SK_ZR_P0480T since the skoda zr folder on mibsolution.one is empty.
  32. Paws4Thot -- Another Quirk.... I was indicating that ACC isn't perfect - that delay in unlocking from a car in front, but particularly recognising a new car that has just cut you up, means that it can't be depended upon to make all the driving decisions for you. And so I don't let it take over and that is a good thing, but I find it just helps to make my driving a bit more relaxing and enjoyable. It's up to the individual, if you don't like it, turn it off if you can. I used to find simple CC much more frustrating, particularly in heavy traffic and I do find that ACC despite it's quirks, for me makes motorway driving overall less wearing and I remain more alert for longer.
  33. Hi I just installed the cable in the pillar trim next to the fuse box (left side for me). As the cable was slim enough, the hardest part was removing the trim panel. Pushing the trim towards the roof so that it can slide out it's not as easy as it sounds. That's because the trip fits quite snuggly at the bottom. I was also very careful in how I pulled as I didn't want to damage anything, not knowing what's behind with the airbag. Now after I did it the first time, I feel much more comfortable. Below you can find pictures with my installations. Hope it helps other people as it would have helped me if I would have had them :) How I did it: Detached a bit the top part, until the first metal claw of the clips. Basically you need to pull perpendicular until you get it over the resort part Then pull the trip towards the roof until the other clips is in the larger part of the hole Remove speaker cable and trim Run an insulated rigid copper cable (or any other cable pull helper) from next of the speaker cable to the bottom part of the fuse box. There's a lot of space to have an easy an tidy pul Pull back from the top the camera cable Fix with camera cable with slim cable ties, not over tightening (white in my pictures) to the main cable on the outside Run the camera cable under the headliner just by slightly pushing it under. Also under the mirror case You'll notice a picture with a broken clips. My car is second hand, I recently bought it. This clips was already damaged, possibly forced by a previous installation. Now I have to replace it https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/8p0867276-spring-clip-skoda-32789.html
  34. Truck software was appalling when I looked at some 25 years ago. So much so that I put my concerns in writing and signed it. However, it has improved, I hesitate to say "a lot" over the last couple of decades. Mainly due to court cases rather than a desire for engineering excellence.
  35. Hello, I have a Scout which I do not wish to be parted from... just moved to France.
  36. Hi @Nicky3d welcome to the forum! youll have to try and link up with (Brisky Original who emigrated to NZ with his mk1 Octy back in the day) Mr @RobClubley keep an eye out for him in his restored Audi Quattro and have an NZ mini meet 😂😂
  37. Hello 👋🏻. From not so sunny Manchester (UK)
  38. 1 point
    Funny, how our preferences has been changed... 20+ years ago 5...10W40 was assumed as thin oil because all used thick 15W40 With upcoming popularity of 0...5W30 those were assumed as thin oils. Now we call 0...5W30 thick oils because thin oils now are 0W12...20 ___ ACEA C5 is typical for 0W20 508.00/509.00 oils and this leads to HTHS viscosity ≥ 2.6 and < 2.9 mPa.s ACEA C3 is typical for 0...5W30 504.00/507.00 oils and this leads to HTHS viscosity ≥ 3.5 mPa.s + thin oils (may) have higher Noack volatility, which (can) lead to higher oil consumption. ___ So, if it's totally not forbidden by VAG to use 504.00/507.00 oil instead of 508.00/509.00, for total engine protection (with loss of 1 glass of fuel per each 100km) I would stick with ACEA C3 504.00/507.00 oil. In Europe's climate / in winter anything with 0...5 before "W" is absolutely fine and far enough. And anything with 30...40 after "W" will be even better in summer/high load/traffic jam etc when oil is >100*C constantly (instead of normal 90...95*C).
  39. 1 point
    bet it sounds better than your old car!
  40. 1 point
    Hi and Welcome! hope you have a great time with it :)
  41. Welcome! I have an Octavia, but dream of owning a Superb estate one day (The SE L Executive) I coach my little lads football team, and would love the bigger boot for all the gear! ha
  42. Can see where you’re coming from, and I never drive like he does on a circuit. I do, however, drive on wet twisty roads from time to time and knowing about the differences in wet braking distances can be very useful, for example.
  43. Don’t forget to include price
  44. 1 point
    You leave the flash drive plugged in until the download completes. That happens whenever you are out on the road. No definite timescale, but keep checking the navigation database date in the infotainment and you should see it change to the new version. From memory, the last time I did an update it took about a week, but it may have been quicker as I wasn't often checking the system to see if it had gone through.

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