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Something that annoyed me since I had my superb was the chrome peeling on the passenger door handle. Part from tps is £110 spent ages looking for a breaker that would just sell me the handle and not a full door card and finally a local breaker agreed today 😂

Heatpump runs 24/7 pretty much but it's only doing full load for hot water and that would be early morning same as car charging but pretty much nothing else. I've pushed for an answer but no answer so far today. I can can car for free at the moment as I have no fixed delivery date. I've told them no answer by Friday and I'll push to delay, no delay and I'll cancel the order until the charging situation is resolved one way or another.

This crap is completely at odds with uk, and most the rest of the world's experience. Now have 3 EVs and no ICE cars and they are easy to live, no trips to gas stations, very cheap to run with energy, insurance and servicing. Not for everyone. Can understand why my boss is ditching her EQC for a new Tayran, similar to the Superb IV I think. But here in the Midland where journeys are 300 miles or less and expensive public charging is used only 1% of the time today's EV's are great and the handful of times I will need to public charge ie down to South Devon for example will be no hardship ie a 20 minute stop when I will also take a comfort break and get some nosh. The figures don't lie in that EV take up is growing exponentially and it is gas stations that will become harder to find and more expensive to use.

Funnily enough, I can get 'OE' 305 rear tyres quite easily for my Jag (which is almost a supercar-although definitely not a hypercar) and yet my PHEV Peugeot was off the road for nearly 5 weeks when I needed a new tyre a couple of years ago. Not one in the whole of the UK. Michelin and Peugeot couldn't help either when I contacted them directly!

Normally it is an 8 or 10 pin connector, so only 1 connector for all buttons

My experience in owning 50 or so ICE cars is that EVs are a revelation. I have filled them with fuel probably more than a thousand times, paid tens of thousands in Excise Duty and VAT. Watch my kids fill their cars with fuel which pretty much cost them a day's wages each time. Getting my first EV 4 years ago ie the 250 mile ranged Zoe, AC and DC charging capable, I soon realised the massive savings in running costs and this led to getting another bigger and better EV, the 2024 European Car of the Year Scenic. On top of all that when I see my children and grandchild I want them not to pay for the mistakes of not transferring over to renewable energy and end up living in a world with ever higher temperatures, more extreme weather and food shortages.

Thank you very much both of you! I appreciate it, will stick with RON 97 & 99 E5 @Ootohere @Papez

Sorry for my bad. thanks. .

As I stated above, it's not OK. For Felicia, only the 1.6 is fine to use it. 1.3 MPI - E10 may damage the seals on the fuel pressure regulator and Skoda recommends replacement. For all other variants of the Skoda OHV engine in Felicia and older models, the E10 fuel is not recommended - but the concern is around the rubber/plastic parts in the fuel system, not the engine itself, so YMMV.

95RON is what these engines were built for. The 54HP variant of 1.3 could run even on 91. The reason people recommend higher octane fuel is, because most of these fuels have lower amount of ethanol in them. Ethanol can potentially cause issues in older cars - in Felicia, it depends on engine, 1.6 should be fine, 1.3 MPI should be fine after change of injector seals from Fabia, I'm not sure about the SPI - you didn't write which engine you have. Edit: found more precise info, distributed by Skoda - the problematic part are fuel regulator seals, PN 047198031 - it's not available from Skoda, but there are alternatives.

It's the same on my fiancee's 2011 Audi A4 cabriolet, no dipstick and can only see the oil level on the infotainment with the ignition on. So this "progress" was already happening 14 years ago!

Carried out checks prior to setting off to the garage indictating alternator not working which garage later confirmed. Fingers crossed, I get it back today.

Absolutely. From factory spec, using anything in Aus other than 95 (minimum) or 98 would be asking for trouble.

Hi all, I have just replaced the recirculation flap motor on my 2015 Fabia MK3. I looked all over the web to find any useful instructions and only found some for the Ibiza here which are actually pretty good, but thought I'd add a few additional comments from my own experience. The symptoms were a loud clicking from behind the passenger side dash when the recirculation button was turned on In short it can be done by removing just the glove box although it's a bit fiddly. The glovebox is retained by 6 screws. Three on the top edge (visible when you open it. One inside to the left hand side just above the bottle storage and two underneath (one left and the other right hand side). Be careful when you remove the glove box as there are three wiring connectors (glove box light, glovebox light switch and airbag passenger switch). I found the easiest option is to remove the airbag connector only, and pop out the whole light assembly from the glove box and similarly with the light switch - remove the plastic pin that attaches the damper and light switch to the door and then twist off the assembly the is like a bayonet fitting to the side of the glove box. To warn you, the light switch assembly is quite fragile (the retaining cover of mine pinged off and several small bits fell out). Once you have the glovebox off, you will find the recirculation flap motor to the left hand side of the blower assembly. It is housed in a plastic cradle retained by two silver T10 torx bolts. One on the underside of the cradle and a second one on the front vertical edge facing you . The vertical edge one is just behind the retaining bar to which the glovebox inner screw attaches. Once you've removed both of those, you can push the cradle and motor assembly to the left. It will still be held in place by a tie wrap at the upper part, but there is no need to cut this as the motor assembly can be pushed out of the cradle in-situ Next, there is a blue wiring connector on the top of the motor assembly which when you push the cradle left should become visible. Use a small screwdriver to gently push the retaining clip inwards while pushing the connector up and off the motor. Once the connector is off, you can now remove the motor assembly from the cradle. There is a plastic pin on the top left of the cradle (nearest to you) which retains the motor. You should be able to push the motor assembly to the right which will detach it from the upper part of the cradle. The assembly can then be lifted upwards to clear the lower part of the cradle. The motor assembly will have a part number like v326800390.25844 (for a non-climate controlled version). I found some original parts on the web and brand new, they look to be around £150 or more. I didn't check with the local dealer to confirm, but found a number of reproduction parts on eBay and Amazon for around £15. Clearly not sure how long these will last, but I thought it was worth a go. There are a lot of these sorts of motors around as they are used for different air/heating controls. Ensure that the one you purchase has the same large plastic gear as the one you have removed. To test and set up the position of the motor and flaps, I found the best way was to first connect the new motor to the blue connector outside of the cradle, switch on the ignition, and then press the air recirculation button, which should drive the motor to one position. Then I switched off the air recirculation button to see the motor go back to it's open (fresh air ) position. Now, having turned off the ignition, and removed the connector, I put the new motor into the cradle and refitted the blue electrical connector. Next, I positioned the two flaps. The one in the passenger door well needs to be fully closed, and the fresh air flap needs to be fully open. You can see the fresh air flap by opening the bonnet, and then removing part of the rubber seal that holds the passenger part of the scuttle in place. You can then gently lift up the scuttle and see the flap. I think the flap defaults to fully open, but it's worth double checking. Once you're happy the flaps are in the right positions, you need to reposition the cradle back into place ensuring that the new motor gear pivot aligns into the side of the air blower assembly, and that the fresh air and footwell vents mesh with the motor gear. Once in place, you should be able to refit the two T10 screws . At this point I tested that it was working properly by turning on the ignition and turning the recirculation on/off checking that both flaps moved freely to the correct positions. Once that was all done, I put back the glovebox. One final warning, by having the airbag switch disconnected, and turning on/off the ignition a few times, it will log an error and likely you will see an airbag fault come up. You'll need something like Carista, or Carly to reset the fault. I don't think it's possible to leave the glovebox in a position with the airbag switch connected without it being in the way as the wire is very short.

It would be more accurate to say that they could not locate the coolant leak!

It was a couple of years ago but I think they replaced a part

Hi. This is a known issue. The issue is in the bonnet not being correctly set causing too much pressure on the casing when you close it.

Jags are 10 a penny up in the north though. I would quite like a convertible one tonight though for a blast up through the Highlands. Lovely evening

Something similar happened on our Mk 8 Golf. It was cured by a software update but others report needing electronic modules needed replacing.

Let's hear the Truth about Supercars and the economics of them. I like the Dirty Truth of the North Coast 500 and this includes the supercar drivers behaviour and stupidity of vehicles with tyres that are not readable available but really need to be north of Inverness at the rate ones are being wrecked. Business,s will adapt to cater for them. We loved click bait vids. The McMasters look like health or poor health and travel mostly. How many times can you slag Porsche and EV,s and keep on keeping on driving one?

Did you by accident select the lever to S instead of D. When I want to start in hybrid I start my drive in S mode for 1 second.

It is all a minefield. The personal and private / public transport, land, sea & air. Even clean fuel sources requires dirty practices. Like all those minefields that are around as around the globe the fighting goes on over land,minerals, oil & gas. Never being resolved and huge industries are built on wars and minerals and fuels for energy & over water. All the crap regarding road vehicles in the UK and RoW is not getting sorted out any time soon. BEV,s are getting cheaper and cheaper and the electricity to power them cheaper and cheaper for some.

To be fair, he only commented on the cobalt aspect. Which is evident from the thumbnail. Everything else I can see is from talking of one's own experience of actually owning EV. Something I think hold more value than whatever third hand info you discover from social media. I've watched most of the video. The data privacy aspect is delirious. Their whole point is that due to having a recording device on the incoming supply, supplier will know what you are doing. It then cuts away to talk about Octopus Kraken profits. The truth in there is that smart meter already doing everything as reported, there's nothing new from EV charge points. Kraken's profit are due to building an innovative energy management system when others are still using traditional power plant style management. If you are really paranoid, you can also get home battery installed so that it always reads 0. Tax incentives are nothing unusual, it's one of government's tools to drive change. That section is like a smoker complaining about tax on tobacco. As for scrappage, the video have not covered the whole story, only interviewing one not specialised repair shop. There's EV Breakers who specalise in dealing with written off EV. There's also industry scaling up to achieve re-use before recycle. For example: Redwood Energy: Fast, low-cost storage to power the age of AI and a changing grid Cobalt institude say cobalt-free battery are bad? Who would have guessed! But digging into the numbers, it seems key is (as with all production) having low carbon electricity: (of course, in conclusion section of the report, they only used the "base case") Therefore you did take this report at face value, without verifying methodology and trotted it out because you were: Funny you should say that. Have you tried to verify the source of the fire? Or just parrot whatever you were told on social media? On Camera, 6 Tesla Cars Burn As Vehicle-Carrier Catches Fire In US I imagine the logistics company would be suing that kind of statement if the fire didn't start in their diesel truck. Statistically, the world would see less vehicle fires if all diesel cars were banned.

To watch the video would mean they get revenue from me watching it. It is clear from the frontal image that it is out of date and at best badly informed on current tech or more probably trying to suck in saps as clickbait.

Yep approved used from skoda in York last October Just got this email from Marshall so happy days! Just to let you know, I have the authority from the warranty company and this also includes the consequential injector which I mentioned yesterday. I have also pre ordered the parts and are expected in tomorrow morning. We will try and complete by tomorrow evening. Clearly at this point w are in the hands of the delivery company.

4 friends and a sibling have Skodas, all 2019 or newer. I see dozens every day and many parked in my neighbourhood when I m out walking. I recently did ask all the people I know that have them what fuel they put in and they all go for whatever is cheapest, except for one. The two that had bought new had not been told by their dealer about fuel choice. The one that always went for 9t is the only one out of the lot with engine issues, some sort of leak that has corroded electrical systems and stopped the turbo working. Anyway, these are just anecdotes and not really statistical of anything but I appreciate your comments and I am reconsidering my e10 choice. However, I do like this quote from https://www.goauto.com.au/news/conflicting-claims-about-australian-fuel-quality/2021-11-01/86245.html "Fuels supplied to the Australian market are far better than the regulated standards. For example, the regulated standard for premium unleaded petrol is 50ppm of sulphur and in 2020 the average level of sulphur was 21ppm" Realise this doesn’t address e10. There’s this from The average sulfur in ULP in Melbourne is 60ppm, and in Sydney is 26ppm. o The average sulfur in PULP in Melbourne is 28ppm, and in Sydney is 16ppm. o Almost half of the PULP supplied to Sydney is below 10ppm sulfur.

From what you describe, I had this issue on a brand new 2020 Scala. It’s apparently caused by the infotainment system trying to connect the automatic emergency alert system to G4/G5 internet. It only happened to me in certain areas of the country where the coverage is a bit patchy. It happened to me particularly round the South East, Whitstable etc. It’s a well known issue and Skoda Cambridge knew all about it and sorted it under warranty since when I’ve had no problems at all.

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Sh!t happens, but there is a lot of sh!t to spread around and spoil many's day, or days.

If enabled, It's the first thing I switch off when I get into a car, followed by lane assist. More pain than gain IMO.

No Text or email from Charge Places Scotland telling Systems issue, or even a human call handler telling you, 'It is not just you'. It is us.

Heres my 1998 1.3 Felicia GLI, picked it up for quite cheap and enjoyed it so far, needs quite a bit of TLC but runs fine (but quite on the loud side!)

Would not waste my time when the front picture talks about Cobalt which is no longer used in most EVs. It is used in the mobile phone you use but not most new EVs which now use LFP chemistry not NMC (C is for Cobalt). Cobalt is down in price by two thirds in the last 3 years as it is just not needed so much. Your mobile phone, doping in some steels etc but not for EV traction batteries. EV battery tech is moving so quick that the current LFP chemistry used for most EVs and increasingly for 40 ft container sized unit in battery storage for the Grid, some massive plants coming on line in Essex, will be superceded by Sodium battery chemistry which is costing about $20 per kwh compared to $50 which LFP has been costing. More worrying thatvl the Cobalt miners are going to get even less for the Cobalt although mobile phones and other small device batteries should also be going LFP and Na as Lithium NMC is really old tech now and like EV manufacturers the device manufacturers really should move on with their battery chemistry tech as well.

70 pence a kWh because the AC posts are off and need charged up to 99% and ready to go. Stirling rapid chargers show as still off at the park and ride so likely paying 78 pence at Osprey to get enough charge to get home. That is how things are these days in Scotland with council owned public charging , so unless using Tesla superchargers or subscription maybe with Ionity or whoever. 98% showing 122 miles is ok if I got that and could get to Perth to charge, but likely it is 110 miles max and maybe 6-8 miles to spare I will get.

Yes only Coding

Thanks for taking the time to reply to my question. I understand your point, In my case though, I just wanted to at least test the feature, since it’s clearly mentioned in the dealer’s catalog I received before buying the car.

So the engine wouldn't start and there was a strong fuel smell. AA guy looked underneath and could see the fuel leaking. When I was helping to roll it on the recovery truck there was a small puddle of fuel

She will see it when you send her a link to the thread

Thanks for your comments, will contact dealer and see what they say.

@Ootohere I know you love being pedantic but really the difference between 97, 98 & 99 in this context is not worth posting about 🤡

Going off topic but UK govs like to talk market then shaft us when the station builders then demand (and get) guaranteed pricing per kWh. "The market" shouldn't only apply to consumers

Hi, I'm Filip, currently I drive 2018 Octavia RS 2.0 TDI with CUNA engine. It is my first VAG, so I hope that I will find good answers here. Best regards

I realise it's not a photo, but I got buzzed 😎 (Needs sound): IMG_2972.mov Gaz

I was outside the front of my house this afternoon, saying hello to my 18 month old neighbour and his Mum. He's very cute, and although he'd just eaten a banana, I let him play with my phone When I went back indoors to finish my cuppa tea, he'd somehow managed to activate my camera. And on the photo's he took, there were a couple of bright red things in the sky over our houses: Like I said, I was only outside being neighbourly 😇 No other reason Gaz

something from yesterday.

Made it to Beachy Head just in time for a smashing sunset: Got home to see the moon emerging from a distant cloud base: Gaz

I've not dealt with Audi parts, but skoda-parts.com is absolutely fantastic. That said, Skoda (UK) did want to charge me £920 inc VAT for a drivers door card, which I thought was a bit of a joke considering it's just crap plastic. It's not just VAG, it's everyone. The emphasis is on how they can make money after you've bought the car - often second hand. if you're buying a car from a private seller, VWAG aren't making anything... so, how can they earn from you? Simple - by making it that you have to visit a dealer when you want a battery replaced, or go to an indie that has paid a small fortune for (sometimes limited) access to tooling. When you take away ICE cars, suddenly servicing provides a lot less income - roll on the air con recharging and the other million things you don't need. @EMike perhaps it's just me, but I'm confused. The battery information, on the top, should be accessible without removing anything? Regardless, again, a new battery has to be coded in. It's not a big job, but it must be done. The new battery, even if from the same batch, will need coding in. Otherwise, the car won't know you've got a new battery, won't know the charge condition, the battery health, or anything else associated with it. Every battery will have slightly different characteristics, despite being the same - the car needs to know. The alternator and ECU on cars are smart, and don't always charge the battery, all the time. @johnny cabbage head I did try this, but I still had no luck. My car is SFD1 (I think) so not entirely sure why. I ended up just getting my Indie to do it, as I had a big trip coming up and didn't want any issues (years ago, on an A3, we had Halfords code in a battery, which led to random issues like the horn, wipers and locking intermittently dying) - noted for next time, though, thank you.

Lovely Moon earlier.............

Later than usual due to being away. Stat date 22/07/25 Tenth month stats from the car Jun-July Includes 256mile To Devon 543mile @ 4.5m/kwh = 120.67 kwh. (63kwh Dc charging £47.70) + [email protected] (16.11) = £63.80 My Mondeo would have averaged 60 mpg for 256m 0f these 543m (£25.52) and 35mpg for 287m @£1.329 litre (£49.04) = £74.56 The trip was done with no searching for the cheapest providers just used what ever was available at places where we stopped, once to walk the dog and then for lunch, the car did not dictate the stops and we never waited for it to finish. Long term guessometer now reset. Stat from the GOM the car has been on for 29.52 hours and averaged 18mph.

Have had this issue in the past and have documented it here. On software 1985 version now, but it has happened in the last few days again, kept the radio on and off overnight with the ignition off and car locked, and battery wouldn’t start the following afternoon. Two things I found have helped, screen cleaner on the screen and keeping the screen covered when not in the car. Might sound a bit cuckoo but it’s like when the sun hits the infotainment system and it gets hot, it starts going crazy and doing stuff by itself. I keep the infotainment covered now when it’s hot or when I’m out of the car and it seems to have worked.