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Its possible the silencer is double skinned and the inner has gone but its normally the other way round. It may have baffles in box that have come loose. If its the original exhaust it may be failing. Alasdair

Solved it. A piece of plastic on the structure itself had snapped right in between the two ports where it holds the metal rod. Bloody lucky it didn’t end up in the engine or good night Vienna.

Best advice is verify the battery is ok, a bad battery is liable to give random faults, then clear all codes, go for a quick drive and recheck, depending on the level of tool you used there could be some historical codes that were fixed but never cleared.

Hello, I activated Smart Link on my swing 3 radio, at Skoda Octavia mk3 MY 2018, so I want to share with everyone how it can be done. DISCLAIMER: You do it at your rensponsability, is not easy to do, and you can mess things out, possible brick you device. Do it only if you have expereince in this kind of activity. Physical tools needed: Tool for removing radio 4 pieces, just google "VAG radio removal tool", cost about 1€. CH341A Mini Programmer, cost about 10€. PC/Laptop Philips screwdriver Software needed (all software in attachment): CH341A driver NeoProgrammer Python (In windows 11, open start menu, type cmd, press enter, type Python, press enter. Microsoft store will open with Python 3.13, click on "Get" and wait to install complete.) Python script for activating CarLink (MEN2SwingPatch.py) Install CH341A driver and NeoProgrammer, make sure python is installed, put MEN2SwingPatch.py script at some accessible location (for example at root D:\). Firstly, you need to remove radio from car, its pretty simple, just insert four "keys" and pull the radio out. Then remove 6 screws from the top and 2 from the bottom, split display from the unit, and pull the top cover to expose top of the PCB. I removed PCB fully from the case to check is there present video chip for reversing camera (unfortunately not), but you don't have to do that. After top cover is removed, and PCB is accessible, you have to find ST 95256 R EEPROM. Put clamp from the CH341A on the EEPROM chip, make sure red cable (clamp) is on the pin 1 (EEPROM). Clamp connector insert in appropriate adapter, and adapter insert in CH341A in part intended for 25XX, make sure red cable facing toward lever. Plug CH341A in computer USB port. All this can be sawn in picture named EEPROM 2. Run NeoProgrammer.exe, go to Hardware tab, select "CH341 Black". Next go to IC>Search>type 95256>select M95256R> click on Read IC. This is the tricky part, if you get all blank result it means that clamp on the eeprom not have a good grip, try to move clamp left-right, take it off and put on again. After 5-6 times of re adjusting clamp I finally got the eeprom content. Save it on pc (for example at root D:\ as 1.bin). Read IC couple more times to be sure that you have good conection to the eeprom chip (if you want to take extra check, you can compare couple .bin with Notepad++ to be sure that you have identical read every time, this is good sign that all is correct). Make sure you dont move accidentaly clamp or PCB. Click on start, type cmd, press enter, navigate to D:\ (place where you saved EEPROM dump and script), type python men2swingpatch.py 1.bin, press enter. If everything is correct you should get printed on display TRAIN:xxx, FAZIT: xxx (see picture "script"), and now you have file named 1.bin_patched.bin. This new file we now need to write back to the eeprom. Get back to the NeoProgrammer, click on File>Open and find 1.bin_patched.bin at D:\, click on Write IC. After writing you can read it again and compare to patched bin, just to be sure its written correct. Now you can disconnect clamp, assemble unit and put it back in the car. Enjoy in your unlocked Smart Link. DOWNLOAD needed software

I have a 2024 superb estate which I use to tow my caravan. Before starting I disable all the assist alarms. However at no perticular instances I get a Passenger proactive protection alarm which tightens the seat belts and starts the 4 way flashes for a short period. I have no idea why this is happening or how I can disable the car from doing this. Help

Primer 😂🤣

I have read various articles / reports now on Wakefield & BEV refuse trucks. Charging points at depots seem to be an issue. Longer routes out and about seemingly. Short journeys stop start not suiting the vehicles???? It looks very odd that where the BEV,s are ideal as they are for other councils you would not use them, and have a mixed fleet of BEV and ICE. As it is there must be something more going on. Were the vehicles they bought or leased actually faulty, or was it user error?

33 x 4mm Part number WHT 003 865 from Skoda, recommended to retail at £10.25 + VAT in UK.

A friend had similar problem. Car didn't sound right and engine was way down on power. I noticed strands of what looked like hair coming out of rear tailpipe. First we thought a small animal had crawled in and partly blocked it so we pulled it out and it kept coming and kept coming. Weird looking stuff like long hair. The internal baffles on exhaust had rotted out and allowed the fibreglass to come out of tail pipe. New exhaust and back to normal. Alasdair

Glasgow Hydrogen trial with Refuse Vehicles.

Strange as Dundee,s seem to be doing well. Not sure if Aberdeen's Hydrogen Refuse lorries are going to carry on doing the job.

It looks like electric refuse trucks have come to the end of the 'charge' as the trial in Wakefield fails. The new fleet will be diesel-powered after all, as electric trucks just cannot cut it in reality. Council bin lorries to be replaced with new diesel fleet after electric trial failure

Hi, it will work on your train version. No idea about vvdi.

Are you sure they state 28 fingers and are not refering to splines on plate? Reckon the important part would be diameter and spline number. Alasdair

OK, if the scan screenshot above is showing the correct engine code at the top (BBM), then you have the 6-valve single cam engine, which surprises me slightly in an estate version, I thought in the mk1 at least they got the slightly more powerful variant. I'll start a PM conversation with you so that you can share the VIN with me securely. Then I can confirm engine coide/type and also the build date. Both of these are really necessary to get the most accurate wiring info.

Looks like those two wires may be the loudspeaker on the door. May or may not be important to you.

This is relatively trivial. Sometimes the reversing camera gives this view showing more of the number plate than it does in the second image which is what it usually looks like. Today I finally discovered what causes it. Starting the car and selecting reverse before the infotainment system has completed booting up.

Agreed, the system has simply overlaid the message on the bottom of the image, giving the appearance of a slight crop.

The inspection really should have spotted those historic faults - was a reader plugged into the OBD port during the inspection?

Best you say what engine it is and how many miles done. I see it is a 2020 car, so when where the spark plugs replaced, where they done at 4 years / 40,000 miles. When was the air filter looked at for condition? Getting any fault codes that are logged would be a good idea. As far as stop / start & wear, there are cars / vans doing many thousands of miles over many years and the starter or engine are not wearing out. PS. Did you refuel recently and is it E10 / 95 ron? As the Winter fuel changed to Summer formula in the past weeks there seems to be lots of reports of Engine / Exhaust emissions lights showing.

Right answer. 🙂

Dry - I never lube the bolts since that may change the actual torque I try to set.

I'll try to give you some tips on checking cam sensor wiring later, cos that code suggests an electrical/wiring/contact problem more than a mechanical one, I think.

Always try to leave it in a gear that means if the handbrake does slip a little, it turns the engine the normal way, not backwards. So if you're nose down the slope, leave it in 1st. If the engine is turned tge wrong way, it tends to squeeze residual oil out of the hydraulic chain tensioner, making a chain jump more likely when next started.

At last, a n offer from Skoda customer services that I've accepted .. 21 April 2026 Skoda Customer Services have a applied a "goodwill gesture' offering me £600 off the cost of a Skoda fitted towbar, coding and electrics.. .. the balance to pay is now £1390 .. which in effect refunds me the cost of my third party towbar that will be removed ..

On my 2019 Karoq, driving above maybe 55mph, yes that's how ACC works and won't let me drive faster than traffic in the adjacent right hand lane, unless I use the throttle. However, below that speed my ACC seems to ignore traffic in the adjacent RH lane and lets me 'undertake' that line of traffic. In some ways, I think that ACC feature above 55mph is a crude if rather imperfect safety feature and don't worry about it. Say you're stuck in an outer lane travelling slowly or at standstill, I think it's very dangerous and inconsiderate for traffic on the adjacent inner lane to be travelling fast. Yes undertaking is OK in such circumstances but not at reckless speeds.

Basicaly you need to read EEPROM, save it to a something.bin, apply python script on it. Script will create new file something.bin_patched.bin, write back to the EEPROM. This procedure is explained in details on first post.

Exactly what I've done. In eco coasting mode you are using fuel as it basically shifts into neutral but the engine is still running at idle speed. In D you get the benefit of engine braking and no fuel is being used.

Part number for the front vRS badge I ordered for my facelift is 5E0 853 736 C 9B9, hope that helps. Regarding folks questions on splitting it from back plate, see pictures. 4 ‘pins’ that align it on the plate, then Skoda’s crazy adhesive.

I picked up a 2022 Superb 2.0 petrol Sportline Plus with 18k on the clock from a VW dealer 4 weeks ago. Also got a 3yr warranty on it. 3 weeks into owning it the low coolant light came on and the level was approx. an inch under the min line. Checked under the expansion tank and there was a small amounts of pink coolant, but hadn't noticed anything leaking on my drive etc. I naturally filled it up and called the dealer and they said to bring it back, but it is quite a way from where I live. No Skoda dealer near me could look at it for a month so a local VAG specialist had a look, did a pressure test and said they couldn't find any issues, but fitted a new expansion cap as apparently they can fail. I told the VW dealer I bought it from and they said it had a thermostat housing and water pump fitted as it has a leak before I got it. They even sent me the paperwork for the work done just before I picked it up. Car has been fine and on a couple of long journeys this week but just noticed that the coolant level is under the min again. Low warning hasn't come on, but obviously not good after only a week since checked and filled up. So.... Any thoughts on what's going on and whether I should throw it back at the dealer to fix/or even a refund. It's now over 30days since I picked it up, but I notified them within 30 days that there was an issue. Any help appreciated.

Hi all. In Feb this year I had an airbag:error pop up. The car is Sept 24 delivery with only 8000 miles on it i.e. under warranty so back to the dealer it went. Visit/fix 1: fault code cleared (only), error came back within approx 6 journeys. The fault code related to a crash sensor error (I have no detailed info). Visit/fix 2: dealer decided to swap the front door crash sensors left to right. In doing so they broke the passenger interior door release so the car stayed with them and I got a courtesy car. They continued testing the car and the error came back within approx 6 journeys. The broken part was ordered but has no ETA so could take months to receive. Visit/fix 3: after a ticket with Skoda a crash sensor in the front bumper was replaced. The car was tested for approx 12 journeys with no reoccurrence therefore I elected to go get it and accept non working passenger door interior release. After a further 6 journeys the airbag error reappeared. So we're a couple of months further on, still have an airbag error (though it did take longer to come on with the new sensor), have a broken door release and was without my car for 25 days. Where do I go from here? Raise a complaint with the dealership? With Skoda? See what the dealer says tomorrow first?

I'm guessing it has far more to with the extra loading that refuse trucks have with all hydraulics involved in the lifting of the bins into the truck; the compression rams that compact the refuse and the tipping of the body in order to empty it out were the bit that actually cause problems, as they all eat away at the HV battery charge level and then the lengthy recharging time worked against them. A normal truck only has to provide traction power.

I've got the same car, 2024 Estate, 2.0 diesel SEL. Just towed our caravan to Italy and back, and that Proactive Passenger Protection alarm has been an absolute pain in the back side! I've towed 2,500 miles and I still can't predict when it will happen. Hazards flash at double speed and you just about get strangled by the seat belts getting tightened! Some days it came on about 20 times, other days only once or twice, but you just can't seem to predict when it will activate . I also get side assist, front assist and exit system alarms, usually after towing for a couple of hours. I love the car otherwise, but this is making me think about changing it for something else.