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Been here a little under 7 years. Great forum, I'm sure I'll hang around still but I've moved my octy on now for a VW Tiguan. The Octavia was a cracking car, reliable too. I took it from 47k to 120k miles, and it really didn't disappoint. The only issue it had was the heater matrix, which I had replaced eventually after freezing hands in winter!! It will pass to a new owner with full service history (Independent Vasstechnik in Eastbourne who are just great with all VW group cars). I've left a note in the handbook for the new owner telling them about how well I cared for it, and all about the DPF regeneration cycles. Let's hope they find the Forum too.

I've had the same problem since new on my manual karoq 1.5 drive act 72 plate. Raised the issue st first service. Never happens when battery need charging ie. Auto start/stop deactivated or if if start stop is switched off manually. But happens frequently when slowing below 10 mph and auto start / stop activated. Often happens when slowing turning right at mini roundabouts or turning into services after a good motorway journey when battery is fully charged. Main dealer not gonna find it. It spoils a great car! VW Skoda need to take ownership of this dangerous problem. I've several times been left in a dodgy road position because of it. Its quite embarrassing too.

Mine will only move on the motor when it says "ready" on the dashboard. Been having a play about on the drive. The Drive selector To go for D/B or R you have to press the brake pedal Between D/B and N you can put it to light up those opposing arrows. If you do that and go to get out without setting the EPB the infotainment screen says "Roll away protection disabled are you sure" or something similar. If that message is acknowledged on the screen on exit the Car can roll away but not under power. That is my understanding of how the car works if the car is under power it will do this Last one

Looks more like a dodgy lambda sensor in the exhaust system if CO and HC figures are high.

this is tool where u can double chcek part numbers https://ifinterface.com/page/page3.php

On my Enyaq there is no "p" on the gear selector, P is engaged automatically when I set the parking brake and the car is moved from "D". E.G if i stop at the lights and set the handbrake I have to press the brake pedal and move the selector back to "D" to move. It also sets the handbrake and goes "Park" if I get out. When I get in, to move I have to press the brake pedal and "D" "B" or "R" to move. It will move without the accelerator pedal pressed if "Auto hold" is not set if you select "D" "B" or "R". But has never put itself in gear just by getting in. There is a procedure to disengage the EPB for pushing but it is not simple and requires confirming on the screen before getting out to leave the car in "rollaway" mode

The Lane Assist "Troubleshooting" guidance in my Fabia Mk4's Owner's Manual reads as follows: So, if there's a windscreen wipers-related fault, it seems not unreasonable that this might disable operation of Lane Assist. Regarding the warranty, the answer Skoda gave to the FAQ "Can I go to a non Skoda retailer for servicing?" was You are of course free to choose where you have your vehicle serviced. However, we would always recommend that a Škoda Retailer is used as they receive full training in the servicing of Škoda vehicles and are kept up-to-date with technical information. Having a service completed at a non-franchised retailer will not in itself invalidate the warranty. However, should any difficulty arise that is deemed to be as a direct result of incorrect/incomplete servicing, any remedial work required would not be covered under your new vehicle warranty.

Evening, just looking to see if anyone is experiencing the same issue as me with my Karoq 1.5 Tsi (73 plate)…. So the car has perhaps half a dozen times or more cut out completely when slowing down, no stall / kangaroo or otherwise, power simply gone, resulting in me having to restart the car when in a rolling motion. Very unnerving especially with traffic approaching. I’ve tried to recreate the event on quiet roads with no success so I’ve no idea what action causes this. I had thought it was something I was doing but it’s since happened to my husband, and he’s only perhaps driven the car twice. Before I head to Skoda and demand they look at the car, has anyone had the same? Thanks!

One is the reversable boot floor, carpet one side and a sort of plastic the other. Both items are in great condition too Second is a rear sun screen, it's a mesh material in a metal frame that you clip inside the hatch window, it keeps out a ton of heat and you can take it out for winter, you can't see into the car also. My 280 had tinted side windows but the rear glass was not done. Both are huge and would be prohibitively awkward to post. If you want either you WILL need to come to Swindon. They are free, of course a donation of draught Guinness tins are always welcome 😇, but no charge for a cuppa or coffee. I'd rather someone make use of them than just throw them I assume you can message me on here for details

Recent bought a second hand 2025 elroq 85 edition trim (no packages) Trying to get my head round the lane assist feature. Skoda manuals don't explain it particularly well. I thought that it would happily keep my in the motorway lane, as long as my hands were touching the steering wheel..instead it kind of bounces me back and forth between the lines like a pinball before getting angry at me and telling me to drive in the centre of the lane. I thought that was your job, car! Anyway it acts more like my old scala whereby it would nudge you back as a safety feature rather than happily doing the steering for you. I thought it should be the latter. The funny thing is, my mate has the same car and he says it does do lane keeping (although he bought extra packages which might explain this). Does anyone know if true lane keeping is standard on the edition variant and if so, how do you activate it???

@iantt download link sent in PM. @Sasa82 MIB STD2 Toolkit is the answer.

Well today I removed the up shift paddle extension in quite a dramatic fashion. It would appear that the windscreen wiper stalk when pulled to wash the windows is closer to the wheel that the top of the paddle extension. So if you wash the windows during a right turn, the paddle extension hooks behind the stalk and you can’t turn left or stop washing the windscreen! Luckily it was down a relatively wide and quiet country lane. And the 3M tape gave way just at the moment I had realised what had happened. Unfortunately the wife was in the car so I got somewhat of an ear bashing and a few “I told you so” about buying cheap parts from AliExpress! Safe to say the other extension will be removed in due course and I shall return to OEM paddles only!

Hi I’m Allebab from Denmark I am driving a Skoda Fabia combi from 2017 tsi. Really happy with it. Before this one I had a Fabia combi mk2 tdi 2009 that I also enjoyed. I will hopefully be more active in this forum. To learn and to share. I like to clean and care my car and I’m looking to style it for looks and performance

You probably need a new o-ring.

Had similar problem a few years ago with volvo 940. I got new carriers but symptoms returned. I changed from whatever pads the garage had used to an OEM set and problem solved. I also found that there should have been stainless steel inserts that the pads sit into but hadnt been fitted. When I measured pads the ones that were on it were slightly smaller by around 1mm. I wouldn't bother refurbishing carriers. Lot of work unless you want them as spares. Alasdair

Clean diesel fuel on its own should be sufficient to keep the pump lubricated.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I was at my wits end and had tried everything to no avail. I just came across an online tip which brought success. It pointed me to reset Wifi, mobile and Bluetooth on the phone. This gave a clean slate for pairing and I am now up and running - just have to re-pair my smart watch with the phone.

When there were Service Books the page after each Service page showed a Car body to mark the damage, corrosion etc. Then it was on the Palm Top device that you identified marks and that was recorded. Then much of the 'items' to do on the Work Sheet never had that showing. & time was not allocated for a proper inspection. Proper Places had the Free Wash before a Service, not after it, so that a proper body inspection could be done.

I've not got them now but the local VWŠkoda Dealersship(s?) that dun my wife's 2015 Fabia used to have a drawing of a splayed out car to note damage I can't remember now if it was on the "free health check" (lie) sheet or not, they scared my wife enough with that when looking for expensive unecessary work.

The Nobody doing a check at drop off, not checking for marked wheels or obvious damage is a matter to raise with the Dealer Principle. Poor Franchised dealership practice. BUT, the Premium Price charged for Servicing 'Should' include the Body Work inspection for the Paint & Corrosion Warranty/. Not on the Time Sheet / Service Sheet, no longer Service Books, but Skoda are the first to say 'No record of Inspections' when knocking back Warranty Claims'. Inspections are not required in the Warranty T&C,s. But Skoda / VW Group show it as part of Servicing. What is supposed to be checked is damage or poorly repaired damage. Seldom done and then recorded.

Good calls on consulting the car's 'Owner's manual', muck on the sensor area of the windscreen and the FAQ answer. However from VW - "2. Switch off the engine and restart it after a while" - what computer engineering progress. 😆 😁 😄 The old "Have you tried switchin' it off 'n' on agen?" Many years ago my wife won a raffle prize for a Land Rover off-road driving experience and as we're not far from Rockingham Speedway she elected to take it there. Unfortuanately only BMW X5 things were available on the day but she stuck with it and being risk adversed took out the optional £20 insurance cover. The report paper at the end had "poor blue pole" as on the hill decent the vehicle slid into a blue pole and she was blamed for putting her foot on the brake pedal which she didn't (but unlike me she nearly always avoids confrontation) so didn't argue too much against it. Before the end of the course she recieved an apology as based on her denial they checked and it turned out "a sensor had mud on it" !! on what's supposed to be an off-road vehicle !! She wanted to drive a (proper) old Landie rather than some modern (at the time) German machine that drove her, another lesson learnt.

Plus Mannol (is alleged) to use dodgy sanctions busting feedstocks to produce their oils, etc in Lithuania. i wouldn't touch it with a bargepole.....

AI.

AFAIK, you're probably as well off using good quality fuel and ensuring as far as possible that DPF regens aren't interrupted.

this looks lice correct cableset i ordered https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008632915681.html

All parts ale for combi/estate model cableset from china 2x small cables from china, dont need if u cut the original cables https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001908131035.html model 6 and model 3 Driver Door Button need also plastic around it! cant find it atm 565959831 Tailgate button 3C0959831A Ball Studs 657827850 4x please chceck correct vehicle year 2x Trim 5E9827721A Servomotor for rear lid 5E7827851 2x please chceck correct vehicle yeari used aftermarket one original too expensive Servomotor for rear lid lock 5TA827887B Bowden for rear lid lock 3V9827532B number on this should be same as on lid for servomotor for rear lid lock Lid Lock 5E3827506 Buzzer for tailgate 8E0919279 Control Unit suggest to get from donor car or u will need to upload dataset via ODIS 5wb959107 Hope i didnt forget anything <3

Can't help you on the firmware update, but to solve my problem I purchased this item and it fixed it instantly. Turned wired AA into wireless and was very smooth, nothing to set up. https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B0FP172DXD

A heads-up... The fuel-filler flap on cars is not (normally) designed to provide waterproofness and, when it rains or the car is washed, water will find its way into the compartment area behind the flap. My 2009 Skoda Roomster's fuel-filler compartment has a drain-outlet directly below the filler-cap. The outlet's bore is quite large and any water collecting in the compartment rapidly drains away and disappears harmlessly behind the rear wheel-arch's plastic liner. My 2024 Skoda Fabia Mk4's fuel-filler compartment also has a drain-outlet, but this is in an 'indent' to the left of the filler-cap and, more importantly, the bore of that drain-outlet's 'hole' is much smaller than the Roomster's. Consequently, if there is any dirt/debris in the water that enters the Fabia's fuel-filler compartment, there's every chance that the drain-outlet will clog up and a pool or water will then form. To avoid this happening, it's worth occasionally cleaning a Fabia Mk 4's fuel-filler compartment drain. I use a length of thin plastic-covered electrical wire as shown in the image below (and obviously remove the wire from the drain afterwards!)

@Warrior193 A PHEV is not an EV and EV,s can and are different. None i have had required any touching of the EPB to disengage to move on once the brake pedal touched , drive (or Reverse) selected and then the accelerator touched. (PS. As far as Autohold and not EPB, then as long as the car switched on an in D or R then touching the accelerator will having you moving, Autohold is just acting as though you are holding it on the brake pedal without you holding it on the brake pedal but activated Autohold by stopping touching the brake pedal. 4 corners are braked unlike with the EPB.)

Hello there, I finally traded in my beloved 2016 Superb Estate for an SE L IV 1.5 Tsi, (with sunroof, family pack and winter pack (for my arthritic hands which weren’t an issue in 2016 (the car has aged better than me!) Ordered in London in mid April I I was told today car has just been built, and I should receive it some time in July. My first Phev Hoping there won’t be too many delays🙏 Really looking forward to my new car, although will be sad to say goodbye to the old one…. best car I ever had. All the best to everyone Ben

wow you really gor carried away in a junk shopping expedition! 😁 I am really interesting to hear how the "wiper blade repair tool" works! I've done the fire extinghuisher thing, see towards the bottom of this page:

Update on my Kodiaq listed as a 4x4, but in reality is only a FWD... So finally I got the Registration Document ( V 5 in the UK? ) and its listed as a JEEP/ESTATE.. no mention of 4x4 anywhere, and true 1x0. So in due course, I contacted the insurance, and informed them that the car was not an 4x4, but they insisted that when they inputted the reg nr. that what came up was it was a 4x4, and it was on that basis that they were insuring it on. So I said OK, fine by me, as long as if I ever have a claim, you wont try to wriggle out of it based on your assessment of it being wrong. So here we are....Car is a delight to drive, handles very well on the road, plenty of power (for my needs at any rate) Even the 6/7 th. seat's are very comfortable, surprisingly so. They are not something that I would pick by choice, but in the Kodiaq, they work. Thanks again for the help, Regards, Jim.

Thx so much ! I'll try again , maybe my PC had something. Got 2016 O3, with MIB 2 std and the previous version installed from you, worked.

Result!! "Dear Mr. Davies I’m happy to let you know we have successfully recovered the costs involved in your vehicle damage claim from the responsible party. This claim has now been closed in your favour and I’m pleased to confirm that the no claim discount has not been affected. Yours sincerely Minna Jacob Minna Jacob Recovery Claims Consultant"

Would be interested as have a june 25 production date l&k 2.0 tai 205 which does not have it activated with S in vin and skoda on the steering wheel. All I get from skoda is your car does not have it ! I assume on my car it’s software not hardware

Solved Just switched steering wheel heating button to not active. It's working fine, heating level selection works at it should.

Yes, update it to MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T

There’s not much I haven’t been able to find on the forum in old posts and when there’s not something existing there’s people who know and are willing to help. Love this place!

I've got a direct link to the Roomster workshop manual , a PDF zip file to download and a link to it unzipped https://drive.google.com/u/0/uc?id=1af6lijSW9wMtIk78Ae4MEl9KtwEWyKkL&export=download for zipfile https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CZMS4GkOTdvjJcd52m3oa6Vp8ujO7tXF?usp=sharing for unzipped I hope it is useful.

Coding list from this document from Golf not my job https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ybj7CvYJjE81WpjKkBgFsONvx6q1fgpP/view + need to code drivers door module with trunk lid control > active

Well done for persisting with this and not being fobbed off as so many people have been (including me). It is a victory to have got Skoda to admit to the cause of the problem. Let's hope DVSA will recognise it is a real safety issue. Let us know if there is any benefit in getting several people to back up your story to DVSA.

So silent in the Roomster projects that I decided to start a thread for my car. Bought the car about a month ago as the cheapest available with the optional equipment I was after. Few days I've been driving around and looking through what is neccessary to do. Interior is light beige and turned out to be in quite nice condition after a full wash with textile washing machine. Ac-maintenance was made in a shop and Climstronic seems to function fine. That's about everything easy. Steering bearing is absolutely wasted and front springs make awful snapping sounds while turning tighter and brakes in every corner are stuck some more wome less. Tried to fresh them up with some lubing and cleaning but yeasterday non driver sides front brake stuck again, so it's going to be the time for few new parts and a bit deeper overhaul. While waiting for the parts to arrive, I made a flexfuel conversion as I had a eFlexFuel control box as a leftover from a crashed Toyota. Needed to order a wire set and some assembly parts for 8mm fuel line from the factory, but those arrived in two days. Otherwise the work was straightforward, but finding a nice sturdy place for the ethanol sensor was a bit of a hussle, as original fuel line jums straight from the cavity in right fender to the fuel rail. Sensor is very light, but won't survive long by hanging jus on the line. After a while I mounting to the intake box. Two 6mm holes on the dirty air side should not make any differences as there is even more draining holes. Like that: Control box is mounted to the left fender next to ecu, don'have pics of that. I don't know if the bts-engine is ever made multifuel from factory, there is 1.6 multifuel Octavias I think, but someone can maybe tell if it's the sama engine. If it could be done via different ecu with ethanol sensor, it would be much more sophisticated, this aftermarket set is installed between the original injector connector and the injector itself, so the fuel consumption numbers from cars computer are not going to be right anymore. Next I'm going to work with the brakes, front shocks and some bushings. After that some outside make up work, little bit endless fight with corrosion, maybe headunit upgrade, micro camping equipment and so on. Bit by bit, let see how and when.

Last week I made a light sleeping equipment to be added to Roomster as needed, and during the midsummer I made first three nights fly fishing trip to north east. Everything worked quite ok, middle frame wasn't sturdy enough so little bit of wobbling while climbing in, and the bed plane didn't stay levelled. Bed was straight enough for sleeping, so not a biggie. Because the car is used mainly on other duties, the camping equipment should be easily removed and stored, so I made it mostly foldable. The parts are attached with one gargo cloth and few zip ties, so its quite fast to put on and take out. With everything on, there is plenty of room for sleeping and stuff needed. Bed is comfortable for one, maybetoo for two very small persons or persons who like to sleep very close together. Main area is 100cmx140cm and the add on on the passangers side is 60x70cm so it's quite nice. I wanted to make it driveable while the bed is on full size to avoid hassle while changing locations, and you don't have to do a lot of setup. The add on is foldable to give normal room to your right shoulder while driving. I'm going to make some little upgrades, but the basic idea is good enough now.

Yep this sounds exactly the same as mine. I’m worried I’m actually going to have a pretty bad accident as it’s most often happening on a roundabout or when I’m turning at a junction.

I have had mine a month now from new (1.5TSI manual) and noticed something similiar maybe 2 or 3 times, just cut out at fairly low speed. Press the accelerator and nothing happens, have to restart by pressing the ignition button. Like you I have not been able to replicate the issue, seems to only happen at low speeds though, 10mph ish. Given the ignition doesn’t start when I press the accelerator I am not sure it is linked to the stop/start function.

Yes all three are on the same fuse. See below diagrams. Take them with a grain of salt, these diagrams are from 2017 and VAG likes to change things all the time, especially which fuse does what. Screenshot 1: Fuse 40 definition states sockets U1, U5, U9. and U18. Screenshot 2: You can see the fuse "SC40" connects at "B150" to three points on another diagram, points 436, 443 and 447. The numbers in the boxes refer to the numbers at the bottom of the page; you find the page with the numbers and that's where the lines reappear. Screenshot 3: The three red/green lines reappear, going to U1, U5 and U18. U18 is the one in the luggage compartment. Screenshot 3 also doesn't explain that: U and U1 are the same thing, but it depends on the smokers pack. If smokers pack installed, then you get a lighter socket with the heated element. Otherwise it's just a power socket. U5 and U9, same as U and U1 above. U18 - no option to light a ciggy, just a power socket. If you have the U13 230V socket in the middle row seats, then that's a different fuse and the other pages of the diagram imply that both the 12V and 230V outlet there are on fuse 46 but the front and luggage ones remain on fuse 40. Here is the fuse box. See fuse 40 (highlighted yellow) has room to move down (red marking) which is different to all the other fuses around it. To repeat, not all cars had the metal contacts fitted in the lower position. Mine did not. You can check yours with a flashlight.

He treated that insert like a stone which you can drop-drag anywhere,no respect at all for the customer's item ! Take a look how was in the past,in excellent condition. Look how it became due to that stupid assistant. I was very upset-angry and disappointed,i made a complain to the repair-shop owner and he promised that he would paint that insert in the next appointment which was almost 2 week later because "he was busy".