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No further trouble with alarm, roof blinds were gaffer-taped together for a while. Now fixed a little better, but still a bit bodgily with hotmelt glue fixing the four magnets in their correct orientation. Front two shown here: This has had the extremely welcome bonus of eliminating a very irritating buzzing/rattling that seems to have been the result of these magnets being loose under their plastic rivet fasteners. This has made me very happy.

This Caddy has been in my ownership for almost nine years. The work that is documented in this thread I hope bears testament to the fact that it has never lacked for attention, and it has had more money spent on it than I would ever admit to my partner, but nonetheless there was still a shocking discovery to be made. Driving in and out of my workshop, up and down a small step / ramp I sometimes heard a noise like sheet metal deforming. More than once I had crawled over and under the pick-up in search of evidence of the source of this noise, but without success. The same noise occurred when I raised it using the scissor lift for the recent gearbox / driveshafts and brakes work, but now I could see dents in the side panels between the B-pillar and the rear wheels. This is not good! Johnny from S&P Autos, who have now changed their name to Martlet Autos, had a look at the Caddy while it was on the lift in my workshop. It was obvious that it was not as rigid as it ought to be, but it was not at all obvious why not. There is a lot of new metal under there, and no sign of tin-worm, so the cause of the flex in the bodywork could not be identified. There were a couple of other jobs I wanted Johnny to do on it before submitting for an MOT test anyway, so we added further investigation of the structural issue to the jobs list. When the appointment at the body shop came around, tactical jacking soon had the area of weakness pin-pointed, and a bit of expert poking unmasked the full horror. The front lower half of the nearside rear wheelarch was not steel. Rust had eaten away the original metal in this area, and rather than repairing it properly the previous owner had put some effort into hiding it instead. The critical area where the wheelarch meets the sill, adjacent to the rear beam mounting, had been patched-over with fibreglass then painted with stonechip to complete the disguise. No wonder the Caddy was trying to fold in half! NSR wheelarch fibreglass bodge I want to stress at this point that I have never sought or received a ‘dodgy’ MOT for this or any other vehicle I have owned, and nor do I blame any of the MOT testers who have passed the Caddy during my ownership for not having spotted this horrendous bodge. Effort had gone into applying and painting the fibreglass so it looked like the surrounding solid bodywork. I can remember when MOT testers routinely used to run a hammer and a magnet over the underbody, which would have shown there was something very wrong, but I do not know of anyone who still does this as a matter of course. Without that this bodge was very hard to detect. This photo was taken once the repair work was underway. Getting back to how it needs to be. Whilst the rear axle was hanging loose and out of the way, the opportunity presented itself to do some work to improve the top spring seats. They certainly look better for it. At the body shop the work that I had done to tidy the hockey stick trims was completed, concluding with some nice gloss black paint. When the rear bed floor repairs were done they were finished-off with a covering of black raptor paint, but the tailgate inner panel had not been painted to match, and this was a good chance to rectify that oversight. The Caddy looked better than it ever has previously, during my ownership at least.

I would get it scanned as there is probably a code stored pointing to which abs sensor is faulty or could be broken wire to it. As said check voltage accross battery when cranking engine. 12.3v is 60-70% charge but if a cell is failing it may drop a lot when under load. Might also explain why it happens when rear wiper is on etc. Alasdair

Provided your usual garage has the equipment necessary to scan for DTCs recorded and have suitably qualified technicians, there should be no reason they would not be able to fix the problem.

Yes, very likely.

Hi i just bought a Skoda Karoq 2019, I am in Aberdeenshire and wanted to say Hi and introduce myself Norman, I am 65 and like cars and looking for help so i think I am in the right place.

Thanks for that, found it at last. I hadn't tried that button. I also had to swipe the screen left to get to the second screen

Very possible that a ABS wheel sensor or connection got damaged during the tyre blowout.

No, just downloaded the file here and updated it over usb, no modifications whatsoever. Resolves the user login issue at least :) Maybe it needed a bit after the reset.

Amazing many thanks, seems I'm too new to PM you though, presumably if you pm me I can reply? Cheers, Alex

Stop-Start error indication is normal if MIL light is activated - as would Cruise Control unavailable.

Is it worth that?

I wish to say hello to all here.

I've got a Launch diagnostic tablet that could take the light off. Happy to have a look if you can bring the car to Ayr. Send me a PM and I'll throw my number across, we can sort something out. Cheers.

Thanks for the update pal, so it would be the 1 at th3 back that needs checking. My drl is working but not the main beam. I will swap over thr ballasts and take it from there.

I had a similar episode, took the tyre to a nearby tyre depot they took the tyre off the rim gave it a wipe around and fitted a new valve and inflated it no charge (slack day) no further trouble. There is of course the possibility that some twisted soul let the tyre down out of malevolence.

Lucky you, when I removed the bearings from my 2011 Audi S4, I started with air hammering the 4 screws, then clamped the bearing pack with a suitable big 10.9 grade bolt, washers and nut to keep everything together, then used a hub press plate - that worked nicely! Quite a bit of the aluminium upright in that area was badly corroded and some came out with/on the bearing assembly!

What’s the point of this post? Are you concerned it’s not WBAC but a scam? Are you unhappy with the valuation?

Sounds more like a wheel speed sensor has stopped working? Get the car scanned for faults next. Thanks. AG Falco

As previously mentioned, unzip the files and you will have 2 folders and the info file. On GPSpower.net you will find the latest version of maps, version 450. Click the link for Columbus and install after unzipping of course. Speed camera files can also be downloaded from there or on Briskoda. Not forgetting Radio station image files too. For Firmware there is a very good guide in this very forum under "guides".

Changed the front brake discs and pads this morning to try and finally cure the brake wobble. Seems ok so far but let’s give it 200 miles or so to reappear like it did before. All went without drama using the excellent @Bap33 guide Here. I also swapped back to my standard wheel without paddles. For the small amount of instances that I used the paddles I would rather have an airbag that fits properly!

Quick shot in the field, i did drag my sideskirts on the ground just a bit 😁

Ur not supposed to take anything out of the mib2 folder. Just copy, once extracted, all the folders as is, including the mib1 folder plus the other files. The root folder is meant to have 2 folders (mib1 and mib2) and 1 file (metainfo2.txt). If anything is missing from the extract, the checksum will b incorrect and the update will never b successful.

Makes me wonder where the camera would draw it's power from?

Seriously - being in the industry - you must be stark raving bonkers to think that full self driving vehicles are 'the near future' for much of the population. Yes there are a few places where they are being trialled but not without faults / problems and only in very small geographical areas. Whilst the industry (and certain well known billionaires) are prone to make extravagant claims they don't currently stack up and don't reflect reality. There is then the issue of interior cleaning / sterilisation etc. between users (eg the drunk coming home from the pub who throws up int he back, or the person going to the hospital with a contagious disease). Add to the above a human being's natural self preservation instinct and lack of trust, plus the differing nature of many parts of the UK (many don't live in cities which are where full self drive will be commercially viable) and we're decades away from it.

As it turns out - yes. Pulled the pump - bottom and top halves not attached (and no sign of the spring either) and the key transfer pipes were disconnected. So someone had been in there before. Sorted that and all my issues seem to have been resolved 🤞