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Collect my estate this morning Already got wheels and suspension lined up, but would like to do a few more bits to it I have the 1.5 TSi 150bhp Manual FWD I’m looking at a remap by a local tuner who’s very good with VAG stuff Debating an intake, possibly the MST kit as it’s the most enclosed system But not sure what to do about the exhaust on it Wasn’t sure if a resonator delete would gain much sound Or would I need a custom exhaust somewhere I don’t mind if the exhaust tips aren’t visible But I don’t want anything that sounds rubbish Tried to do as much research as possible but struggling to find the info I need Any help would be amazing! Especially with photos

I assume the Octavia vrs one will fit unless pipe is different diameter overall. But they make them in house so I’m sure they could make one at a price.

Interested to know more. My mk2 octavia has already sill damage from previous owner/garage lifting it probably slightly wrong place. I too am not happy lifting on pinch welds either. Older cars I have had had a definite block in chassis that you put jack under. Lifting car with sill may be fine for changing a wheel but not if working on it. I generally try at front to get under console or at rear under control arm where it meets chassis. Then as a safety point put axle stand under pinch weld. Alasdair

These Powerflex ones look like a good idea, I am never that comfortable using the pinch welds. Are these a fit a forget solution and where exactly do they fit?

I believe @tombee fitted and RPM res delete to his 220 and the local powerflow branch did the fitting.

Oh sorry. Yes, on rereading your original post I can now understand what you meant. Best wishes.

I have a similar problem with my small cc motorcycle,the rear wheel particularly. Sometimes yes sometimes no,it drives me crazy...

actually its very likely possible, especially if ur car is "old" now. normally the VIN number has an expiry on the skoda update portal. u'll get updates up until a certain date, after which it will tell u no more.

Hi everyone, I think we have finally found the cause of the noise! When we removed the left front wheel again to replace the brake caliper, we noticed that the wheel hub was sitting a few millimetres out instead of being fully seated in the wheel carrier. This seemed to affect the position of the brake caliper, leaving some play in the assembly. We removed the right front wheel to compare both sides. On the right-hand side, the hub was seated correctly in the carrier, with no gap. We then bought a new wheel hub and bearing and had them fitted by a machine shop. The new hub seated fully in the carrier, just like the one on the right-hand side. The play in the brake caliper assembly also disappeared. After the repair, I drove the car for quite a long distance, and so far, the noise has completely disappeared. My suspicion is that the old hub was not seated correctly, affecting the position of the brake disc relative to the caliper and causing intermittent rubbing or vibration while driving. This would explain why the noise stopped as soon as I lightly applied the brakes and changed when I turned the steering wheel. Before finding this, I had already replaced the front brake discs, pads, caliper pistons and wheel bearings, but none of these repairs had solved the problem. The wheel carrier itself is the only major component on that side that has not been replaced. I'm sharing this in case it helps anyone else experiencing a similar intermittent metallic scraping noise. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions and advice!

Here is my UK 2026 2.0d 150 SE L. Love it so far. A few frustrations with some of the tech, but thats the nanny world we live in now I guess.

Intuitively that makes sense, but the workshop manual is very strict about not lifting it anywhere else! Which is why I've come here. 9.3 Raise vehicle Raise vehicle with a lift platform or a workshop jack The vehicle must only be raised with a workshop jack in the indi‐ cated jacking points -arrow A- and -arrow B-. a = 12 cm b = 24 cm The jacking points are located at the stiff joints of the bottom side rail.

Victory! After replacing the USB port and wiring harness and ereasing the error. Huge thanks to @Zlatko580 for this guide and the additional help. Also thanks to @bigwhale42 for the Linux guide. I used WSL and had some pretty good fun... ...although playing with clamp was quite stressful for me :) Thanks again!

Fabia Mk3, MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0460L, ver. 8780 - Success! It worked like a freaking charm. Huge thank you @Zlatko580! And thanks @bigwhale42 for a Linux version (did mine on Mint) Also, photos were really helpful! In my case I didn't need to do factory reset, CarPlay, Android Auto, MirrorLink everything worked from first run after plugging unit back.

If someone has problems getting valid input from the EEPROM chip via the clamper, as @bigwhale42 mentioned, you need to try using a 1.8V adapter, it worked great for me, since I had a lot of stability issues on input from the clamper when using the 3.3V. With the 1.8V adapter it worked flawlessly. To avoid bricking the device, always make sure to check 4 or 5 times reading the EEPROM and check the CRC32 before getting your backup. Then another sanity check is the MEN2SwingPatch.py output for device numbers, for example: Train: MEN2_EU_SEGPx_P8010L FAZIT: WG8-LGM20.03.1900010083 VCRN: D0478DEFB4 I also needed to factory reset Full Link for Carplay to appear (only Android Auto was visible), as @Zlatko580 mentioned. Guys, also congratulations to everyone contributing to this solution it worked great and it was a very enjoyable "project" for people in electrical or computer engineering. Special thanks to the people that managed to reverse engineer the memory seems kinda crazy to me, even with some experience on embedded systems security.

2022 VRS, Stage 1, full Maxton kit, H&R Springs, Full Forge intake, Drilled disc ceramic pads. Wheels, TCU Map & Custom map to follow.