StevesTruck

I've had this on a 2002 Ibiza, black wire corrosion pretty much everywhere. I spent two years getting by patching in sections but it was never totally right.

I have a rule with diesels - The worse it looks, the simpler the fault normally is. Any spluttering, smoke from the exhaust or anything when you tried to start it, or literally just churning over? Any indication that you might have upset the immobiliser? Is there fuel in the filter? I don't know if it can happen on PD's, but I've had experience of a Vauxhall where the guy who was on it before me got the pump pulley 360 degrees out of time.

I'd sort of see the argument either way on that one. I've always tested at the reservoir because it should be where the fluid is in its worst state for water content, because deterioration would most normally happen from the fluid pulling in moisture from the air in the reservoir, and no where else should be open to air. But at the same time, I've seen some dirty, nasty brake fluid come out of the other end of the system, when the stuff in the reservoirs looked fine.

Yeah, I've found brembo to be a mixed bag in recent years. Same as @FluffyEyeball - I had one warp on my Octavia as well. I put TRW's on the front of my van a couple of weeks/couple of thousand miles ago and I've been really happy with them. Good price too. Not sure I'd use autodoc again because their delivery times are a lottery, and I've been sent a cheap sensor from them when I paid for a branded one. I far prefer partsinmotion - fast delivery, decent prices and really helpful when you talk to them.

Not as easy on a Fabia because of where the filler is... The fluid in a pas system circulates when you steer. I wouldn't normally look to drain and refill the system because you won't get it all out easily What I normally do is empty the reservoir with a syringe, take the return pipe off and put that into a catch bottle. Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. Work the steering lock to lock and top the reservoir up until the fluid coming out of the return is clean. Unless the steering is feeling notchy I wouldn't really bother though. I changed the caddys fluid because I had to change the rack due to a fluid leak. The Berlingo felt a bit notchy sometimes when it was cold.

Was alright for what it was. I've had a 900cc MK1 polo, loved it, but the fiesta was a far better car technically

Can't hurt, but I wouldn't be in a rush to do it at 8 years old. Think both my Caddy and my Berlingo were 16 years old when I did a change. The fluid looked nasty n both. Made a marginal difference on the Caddy, but did help the Berlingo on cold mornings.

Love my VAG cars, but there's only been one make and model of car ever made, that there's never been a bad version of, and that was the Fiesta.

It could equally be the alternator pulley. Have a listen which end of the engine it's coming from.

Love Harry's videos, the thing that makes them so different is his delivery. He's not showing the car or his lifestyle off, it's like his inviting you in and sharing his enjoyment of the car with you.

MicMac is spot on with that. It's almost always going to be a poor solder joint in the dash cluster. Don't swap it for another cluster though because it contains the immobiliser data. The other bodge around is to put a chipped ECU on with an immobiliser delete.

There should be two seals that sit in the ends of the pipe, I find these go hard and brittle. The v bands are a compete **** to get on and sat right. What I did was put an airbag from my lockout kit on the other side of the heater matrix and used it to apply some pressure to push the matrix tight onto the hoses while I pushed the pipes the other way, put the v-band on and did it up. That way you only need 3 hands rather than 4.

The other benefit is it lets you transition between brake and accelerator faster, which is why circuit racers use a left foot brake. As said though, a standard vrs doesn't have great throttle response. I use it a bit on twisties if I'm in a car with the throttle response to do it (MK2 caddy SDI is the only vehicle I have on the road that benefits from it, it doesn't seem to cut the throttle, despite having fly by wire and a multipin brake switch). Growing up driving tractors makes braking with either foot easier.

So, by that token, because I live between an offshore windfarm and an onshore windfarm, whatever I will do will be more environmentally friendly than someone who lives in a city?

There's no problem at all with the National Grid, it's a great idea. However, the post was making the point that because the vehicle was being charged up in Scotland, it would not be causing the burning of fossil fuels, whereas in England it would. If you think that's how the National Grid works, I'm going to need to get the crayons out...

Problem with that school of thought is there's this thing called the National Grid...

Fair point. 👍 Same reason people post criticising everytime someone mentions WD, we've all got our own ways of doing things. Personally I start with some 99p a can stuff and if that doesn't work, use something better.

If it's just one, I'd personally leave it alone. The CR's don't seem to need a lot of glow, so the other 3 will get it going easily enough.

You've posted this on a publicly viewable forum. Personal experience is Adrian Flux aren't particularly trustworthy either on policies or claims (some years ago, they put me down as at fault when someone drove into my trailer whilst I was stationary) I'm with swiftcover and have found them good to deal with, not had to claim with them though.

The holes go all the way through the carrier so it doesn't matter if the new bolts are a bit over.

A litre bottle should be plenty. I normally have a second one in hand in case something properly stupid happens, but the reality is I've changed the fluid on a polo, my bike (that got messy because something properly stupid happened) and my van and have only used 1.5 litre.

It's all the same parts whether it's discs or drums on the back. Really easy job to change, just make sure you have the right socket for the hub nut. Once the nut is off, the hub will most likely come off in your hand. The torque setting according to my manual is 70Nm +30 degrees.

The returned fuel will get filtered next time it does round. The stuff that gets sent to the injectors won't get filtered between the damaged pump and the injectors.

It will be synthetic, I don't think you can buy glycol based any more, well maybe through a classic car parts supplier. Dot 4 is fine. You only need 5.1 if you're going to be getting your brakes really hot, basically sustained track use or driving for deliveroo 😜. 5.1 can make the pedal heavy on some cars.

Metal particles will normally be from the high pressure pump breaking up, so after the filter, but they can go back to the tank via the return hose. Modern diesel can get algae growing in it, so giving the tank a wipe out can't hurt and might make your lift pump last longer.