KenONeill

Well, if a sensor throws an "implausible signal" error, I would tend to suspect it of being the actual fault.

Yes. I am telling you how the package actually works, since that's what you;re complaining about.

By not switching ACC on. Part of the function of ACC is to reduce your speed if you have selected a speed above the ruling speed limit.

How can you tell? I can't see the cat itself; just the metal box it's contained in.

Hint; those are normal temperatures to reach when braze welding steel.

Easy explanation; you braked so much and so often that you drained all the vacuum out of the servo, and the engine/vacuum pump took a few seconds to rebuild vacuum.

Well, I wouldn't bother with the front parking sensors or the lattice grey rhubarb rhubarb. I did wonder about the kneebag, but I suspect it's something you'll be glad to have if you actually use it once.

That seems pretty good to me. I'd also check for something around 14.4v with the engine idling.

It's quite usual for an auto box (so I imagine a DSG too) to only show D when in an automatic mode.

Well, post more then. Join in some of the Off Topic threads like the "First Word Thread".

Sorry we can't help more. My best shot for a "hard brakes" issue is a problem with the servo leaking vacuum or the vacuum line that feeds it being blocked. Actually, that gives me an idea. If that line is externally fabric armoured rubber, there is a known failure mode where it collapses internally, resulting in a loss of vacuum and hence of the servo assistance function. If there is such a line, then if someone squeezes it, it will feel squidgy.

@e-Roottoot Note the word "pedestrians". If you're riding, or even pushing, a bicycle then you're not a pedestrian.

Maybe the tyres are out of round from sitting still so long.

I'd say that for £20 the pair, new top mounts make sense.

Red or amber? It indicates a different reported issue and fix either way.

Somewhat cheaper to diagnose and, if needed, replace an engine mount, than a clutch, never mind a gearbox...

Or don't; they're easy to break and if they do you also have a lump of hardened tool steel in the bolt head...

As @Liger1956 suggests, a front disc shield. Alternatively, one of the exhaust heat shields.

About 272bhp; more with a remap!

Which says to me that the real problem is something else presenting itself as a MAP issue. I find myself wondering about a wiring problem or a bad spark plug. Neither of which I can do much more about over the Internet. Do you have an independent VAG specialist near you? They're often better and cheaper than Skoda main stealers.

Define "costly". A generic remap might be £400 (top end), for about 10% better power and torque on a non-turbo engine.

Yes, but was the recorded error code deleted? If not, then the car still believes it has a duff MAP.

@ords @Wino I'd go further and say that, when the gauge "reads" 90C, the actual coolant temperature could be as low as 60C.

I agree, and can't see how that could be due to refrigerant either. Still, with a 4.5 YO car, an air con recharge is probably wothwhile anyway.

For instance, the Russian consul is actually in Berlin!