langers2k

That looks more like a scan of all the modules. I was expecting the history to show a list of changes, as it does in this thread: https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/97/history

VCDS will let you create an autoscan which includes the ABS coding, it will also let you recode the ABS module if needed. It cannot do immobilizer or odometer correction - you should find a specialist

I believe that OBDeleven has a 'history' file somewhere and can also make a 'backup' of the adaption channels. Are you able to find/create these and post them? If we can see how your car is currently configured and ideally what changes have been made, we should be able to get you sorted

I expect only Skoda will know how many cars were spec'ed with this option. What are you trying to find out? I've retrofitted one to my car if that's helpful?

On instrument clusters, the software changes between revisions, going newer is normally OK but I wouldn't suggest going older... You have the newest version (SW:06xx) for the Octavia, as you want petrol and kph, the obvious options are: - 1Z0 920 843 Q (non-VRS) - 1Z0 920 843 R (vRS) The only difference between these are the dial backgrounds and the max speed. With the right knowledge and tools, it's possible to upgrade SW:04xx clusters to SW:06xx and convert TDi to petrol reusing your existing dial backgrounds. SW:06xx options - would need converting to petrol: - 1Z0 920 843 T vRS TDi - 1Z0 920 843 S non-vRS TDi SW:04xx options - would need upgrading and possibly converting: - 1Z0 920 843 N vRS TDi - 1Z0 920 843 M non-vRS TDi - 1Z0 920 843 L vRS petrol - 1Z0 920 843 K non-vRS petrol Regardless of which option you choose, you'll also need a decent auto-locksmith to switch the cluster, correct the odometer and transfer the immobiliser data. Make sure you have backed up your ABS coding!!! Good luck....

The brackets etc can be specific to the front or rear (car model etc), however, I think the actual sensor is the same. That being said, there is a good chance just the link arm has snapped but I don't think it's available as a separate part. For the front, I'd spray some lubricant on the two ball joints, it should be pretty stiff as it'll only move with the suspension. This is where I found the part numbers: https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Skoda/brand/17/0/Superb/Superb (2009 - 2013)/Skoda/bHA4RXNnejhaZy9idGVqT1daWFFRdz09--/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:4c2e20e94021f4be4d301b9c2ce0a9f0/universal/10110->12847/bHA4RXNnejhaZy9idGVqT1daWFFRdz09--::632941250::941025::383862/bHA4RXNnejhaZy9idGVqT1daWFFRdz09--::632941250::941025::383862 The autodoc page might be using generic images. I'd contact https://www.coverdalecarparts.co.uk/ with your reg/vin and ask about the rear sensor, they've been great whenever I've needed bits and reasonable for a VAG parts supplier

Could be a dying battery?

Do you have a dashcam or similar? They have been known to cause interference with DAB

I think you want 3T0 941 273: https://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/sensor/oem-3t0941273-xenon-autoleveling-sensor-for/ Might be worth taking a few pictures of what's fitted so you can compare

Shouldn't do unless you do something completely wrong 😉

I would imagine a small increase would be fine, just remember to inform your insurance company. A better plan might be to fit smaller alloys and stick with an approved tyre size, just check for clearance around the brake calipers

I expect the bluetooth failure may be hardware rather than software, there have been a few reports of it failing on MIB1 headunits. As for the drive mode button, it may just need a new button or the existing one checking/cleaning. If you've not had it long, I'd be tempted to contact the dealer who sold it to you

Never noticed this with my MY18 vRS and my pixel 2 or pixel 5. To the OP, I'd be temped to factory reset the headunit and see if that helps.

This looks about right and is a very reasonable price: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32840149507.html Few options depending how much of a kit you want and if the original radio has one or two antennas. There is some of the display pinout here: https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/mib2-display-screen-wiring-need-help.447215/ If you're serious about creating your own loom, I'd suggest buying an hours access to https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/ to check the wiring etc...

I believe the cooling system layout looks like this on CR engines: Where: 1 - Expansion reservoir 2 - Radiator for exhaust gas re‐circulation 3 - to auxiliary heating 4 - from the auxiliary heating 5 - Cylinder block 6 - Heat exchanger of heating system 7 - Throttle valve 8 - ATF radiator 9 - Coolant regulator 10 - Engine oil cooler 11 - Coolant recirculation pump 2 -V178- 12 - Radiator 13 - Coolant temperature sender at radiator outlet -G83- 14 - 4/2 way valve with coolant regulator 15 - Coolant pump 16 - Cylinder head The question in my mind is where should the inline thermostat go given the original one is a 4/2 way valve rather than just an inline thermostat? I'd be concerned that an incorrectly placed inline thermostat could cause sections/components to overheat or even block the flow to/from the coolant pumps. I don't know enough about exactly how the system works to suggest a location

Depending on what sort of driving your doing, maybe use something to cover the radiator? If you're doing a longer drive or the temp gets too high, it shouldn't be hard to remove or trim at the side of the road. Obviously overcooling isn't ideal but assuming it can still perform a dpf regen, it's probably fine. I think I had a failing thermostat for about a year before I replaced it 😉

Pretty sure there is a button that appears on the radio screen to turn it off...

Front and rear suspension on the passenger side. You can see some pictures from my Octavia which should be very similar in this thread:

Yup, oil should be 90'C plus really. Just to point out, the coolant gauge lies. It'll show bang on 90'C for a wide range of temperatures, from 75'C to 105'C (or something similar) if I remember correctly. Apparently modern drivers expect the gauge to stay still rather than move with engine load.... Anyway, I had similar issues with my CR140 and a new thermostat fixed it. I logged the temperature before and after to check which I posted here: If you have a DSG, there is a separate thermostat for the DSG that's worth replacing first as it's much cheaper and easier to access

If the arm breaks on a level sensor, you won't get a system fault but it will effect the aim. Take a look to check both are in good condition and not snapped 👍

Given both sensors are reading low, it's more likely to be a thermostat.

Proper CH/LH needs a rain light sensor (RLS) plus an auto light switch then the settings can be configured via the maxidot (instrument cluster). There are no car related setting via the infotainment/radio for this generation, only via the maxidot. If I remember correctly, the vRS doesn't get a RLS, auto light switch or maxidot as standard I think you can get 'manual' CH (but not LH) by using this method: https://www.servicetutorials.com/en/2020/01/07/how-to-set-activate-coming-home-without-light-rain-sensor-on-vw-golf-mk6-gti-jetta-in-3-steps/

Taken from https://www.thatcham.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/January-2021-OE.pdf It's in the Category 1 section: So that would be: R - Remote T - Transponder S - Software Lock U - Ultrasonic M - Microwave L - Central Locking Anti-tilt motion/jacking up the car? Probably not, easy to check with a jack... Exterior proximity sensor/protection? Probably not, try kicking it or quickly dropping it off the jack Door, Boot, Bonnet, Trunk protection? Yup Battery Back-up siren? Yup (should last ~6 years and will create a fault code when flat). Thatcham category 1 or 2? Cat 1 I'm not sure a better alarm will deter theft. These days cars are often stolen to order so if yours fits, they'll still take it A tracker maybe a better option as at least the cops can hopefully find whoever took it.

I'd dump the H7 LED kit... It's not road legal and a decent set of halogens will give better light output, especially at distance where you need it. Just keep your headlights cleaned and aligned properly. As for the instrument cluster, it's probably the LEDs inside that are failing. It's quite common on the age of MK2 it seems. There is a guide on their replacement here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/425611-instrument-cluster-led-replacment/ Not on a MK2 Octavia I'm afraid The OP will need VCDS or similar to enable them. The exact coding will depend on the equipment fitted so it might be worth check the VCDS owners map and owners list for someone local who can help

Hopefully the car is still apart or they at least took some pictures of the parts for you. If the original ABS module has been refitted, a VCDS scan or similar should also confirm the part number - assuming it's still communicating