langers2k

For the headunit/brains: - Quadlock is mic, speakers, power, CAN-bus etc - Yellow fakra is USB - Pink fakra is display (LVDS?) - Blue fakra is GPS - Dual white fakra is FM and AM/FM diversity antennas - Black fakra is DAB - Other rectangular connector is probably MOST (optical cables, only used for an amp or virtual cockpit) On the display: - Connector for power and communication (with the brains) - Fakra for video input from the brains Pretty sure it'll be possible to retrofit but you might want to talk to someone like ChinaRF http://www.ebaystores.co.uk/chinarf to see if they can make all the fakra cables you need. Otherwise, you can try tracing the existing wires to see if they pass the glovebox or not?

If it helps, this seems to be the original wiring diagram: https://www.drive2.ru/l/530317274016383479/ Looks like the climate panel tells the BCM to turn on a relay which causes a second relay to turn on. The two relays then provide two 30a feeds (one for each side) of the windscreen

Very unlikely I'm afraid. If you're doing a retrofit, expect to add all required wires :(

Yup, you can update the maps from Skoda. Try here: https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ For reference, on a '66 plate vRS you'll have a MIB2 Amundsen. You'll need to use an official Skoda SD card, you can reuse the existing one that's in the glovebox You should also be able to connect a using Android Auto or CarPlay with a USB cable assuming Smartlink is enabled.

This seems to be a continuation of the OP's other thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/488998-led/ Yes, it can be done with OBDeleven if you know what you're doing. However, as per my suggestion in the other thread, Gizmo is close by and can enable rear DRL for you. It'll be the easiest, cheapest and least risky way of achieving this

Pretty sure that's a MIB1 Amundsen. If you've not heard from Pab, it might be worth contacting these guys for advice: https://www.vw-retrofit.co.uk/product/skoda-amundsen-mib2-set-with-6-5-screen/ It's almost within budget but it'll depend if they actually need access for coding etc.

I think you're looking for: - 5Q0 825 710 (mid shield) - 5Q0 825 712 B (silencer shield) - 5Q0 253 144 N (exhaust mount) - N 0195307 (bolt for mount) As always, I'd suggest you double check the part numbers before buying Might be worth seeing what Mike can do for you: https://www.facebook.com/CoverdaleCP

Yup, the existing tail lights that come on at night would also be on during the day. Simples! No guarantee it'll stop people tailgating but it'll give you rear lights all the time in a safe and legal way. I think @Gizmo is relatively close and has a hex-net which can change the adaptation channels 👍

Stock behaviour is just front DRL. With tools such as VCDS or OBDeleven, you can also make the tail lights work as DRL. It doesn't matter if they are LED or normal bulbs. It's a simple two minute job 😉 I think even the dealer tool has a function to enable this. It certainly has on past models.

Daft question, would it be easier to just have your tail lights on all the time instead? You can easily do this by moving the light switch but you can also have the car recoded so the tail lights are on whenever the front DRL are. It saves any legality argument and avoids any chance of causing glare for drivers behind you, especially at night. While I appreciate it might not look as odd as a single bright centre light, it should make you more visible which might be good enough?

Just to confirm, are you going to add a switch or something so you can turn this on and off?

The headlights have vents on the rear so minor misting as you have is completely normal. It should clear in normal use. Another member started a post about the same thing on Saturday

I can probably take a good guess at a stock Yeti light config (without an original BCM) if needed. I've got a couple of Yeti light configs from where I've worked on them previously. Obviously I'd much rather have access to the car to check everything but that seems unlikely given our locations. I might have a spare BCM that's suitable I can pre-configure and post out? If you're interested, drop me a PM and I'll see what we can sort out

Why would a random red light would stop them tailgating you? Seems easier to ignore them but make sure you have a safe distance to perform an emergency manoeuvre if needed... Anyway, 10W on a 12v (ish) supply is about 0.83A so a 3A fuse will be plenty. An 18 gauge wire should easily handle 3A so you should be good...

Probably worth starting with an autoscan and maybe an adaption map from 09, 17 and 5F?

The OP is in Hampshire. Looking at the 3 Yeti's I've scanned, byte 18 is 00 so there is no 'correct' byte 18 value. Instead, the best plan is to extract the existing light config and copy it to the new BCM with VCP or ODIS-e. Given the current covid situation, if you can't find someone local you could always post both? Out of curiosity, why are you changing the BCM?

Probably not what you want to hear, but I'd probably just refit it myself... Couple of threads that may help: - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/375869-front-grill-removal/ - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/328396-romoval-of-front-lower-grill-under-the-number-plate/ And an old workshop manual: - https://www.scribd.com/document/487966478/D4B802D18D7-Body-Work-pdf

Depends on the tuner. Some will tweak the existing map so if it's had the fix, you might get some strange behaviour. A decent tuner should remove the fix, dpf, egr and map at the same time. You've not mentioned where the car will be used. You should check there are no regulations against emissions device tampering. Even more so as your post suggests it's going for permanent export.

A VAS6154 is not compatible with VCP. VCP requires it's own specific hardware It's should be possible if your VAS6154 works with ODIS engineering (not service). This should give an idea of what's involved: https://www.drive2.ru/l/466803709959995485/ Obviously you would need to read the correct bytes for the reversing lamps (see VAGHelper) rather than the front/rear fogs. All I would say is be super careful, it's easy to kill a BCM if you mess this up or your ODIS/VAS interface are buggy. Continue at your own risk...

I think as a rough guide, if you have a CD slot in the glovebox, you have MIB1. If there is no CD slot, it's a MIB2. May 2015 was the changeover so depending when your car was built, it could have either but I'm guessing a MIB1. From Skoda: If you connect your phone via USB (assuming Mirrorlink/Smartlink is activated): - MIB1 only support Mirrorlink - MIB2 support Smartlink which includes Android Auto, CarPlay and MirrorLink It might be best if you include a picture of your headunit showing the system information tab and it's part number. Once you've done that, I'm sure either @pab567 or @SashaGrace can walk you through you options. A quick google suggests an RRP of ~£1600 and various sites offering it at ~£1000!

Android Auto and CarPlay don't need to be distractions...? If you're using either for navigation, then they function in a very similar way to an inbuilt satnav as they use the entire radio screen to show maps and directions. The biggest advantages they have over the inbuilt satnav is live traffic/incident reporting and more recent map data. They also tend to have better voice control for entering destinations. Obviously the downside is data usage but most smartphones have data plans these days. Depends what you count as relatively cheap...? To be honest, if you have a MIB1 headunit, I'd be most tempted to grab a MIB2 headunit with smartlink. It might cost a little more than an aftermarket headunit but it should just work after coding etc.

Pretty sure it's T10b/2 to T52aa/20. That'll be pin 2 on headlight switch connector going directly to pin 20 on the black BCM connector If you're super lucky, the wire may already be there!

Mines certainly the rear pads, I can feel it taking extra effort to set off for the first time. After the initial clunk as they unstick, the car is absolutely fine for the rest of the journey or day normally

Rough guide for using VCP + VAGHelper can be found here: https://www.drive2.com/l/568355153657203363/ Make sure you keep a copy of the dump somewhere safe! When you load the dump in VAGHelper, you'll need to select the two reverse light channels and untick both cold and warm diagnostics

Watching with interest... I never once had the pads stick on my MK2 Octavia no matter the conditions or how long it stood. In the same parking space, conditions, usage etc, within a day the pads will stick on my MK3 vRS. Some times it can need a decent amount of throttle before the release with quite a loud crack. After they release, it takes a few brake applications to clean the discs and get rid of the sounds. They work perfectly at this point and no other issues with the brakes or handbrake :/