langers2k

Daft question, would it be easier to just have your tail lights on all the time instead? You can easily do this by moving the light switch but you can also have the car recoded so the tail lights are on whenever the front DRL are. It saves any legality argument and avoids any chance of causing glare for drivers behind you, especially at night. While I appreciate it might not look as odd as a single bright centre light, it should make you more visible which might be good enough?

Just to confirm, are you going to add a switch or something so you can turn this on and off?

The headlights have vents on the rear so minor misting as you have is completely normal. It should clear in normal use. Another member started a post about the same thing on Saturday

I can probably take a good guess at a stock Yeti light config (without an original BCM) if needed. I've got a couple of Yeti light configs from where I've worked on them previously. Obviously I'd much rather have access to the car to check everything but that seems unlikely given our locations. I might have a spare BCM that's suitable I can pre-configure and post out? If you're interested, drop me a PM and I'll see what we can sort out

Why would a random red light would stop them tailgating you? Seems easier to ignore them but make sure you have a safe distance to perform an emergency manoeuvre if needed... Anyway, 10W on a 12v (ish) supply is about 0.83A so a 3A fuse will be plenty. An 18 gauge wire should easily handle 3A so you should be good...

Probably worth starting with an autoscan and maybe an adaption map from 09, 17 and 5F?

The OP is in Hampshire. Looking at the 3 Yeti's I've scanned, byte 18 is 00 so there is no 'correct' byte 18 value. Instead, the best plan is to extract the existing light config and copy it to the new BCM with VCP or ODIS-e. Given the current covid situation, if you can't find someone local you could always post both? Out of curiosity, why are you changing the BCM?

Probably not what you want to hear, but I'd probably just refit it myself... Couple of threads that may help: - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/375869-front-grill-removal/ - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/328396-romoval-of-front-lower-grill-under-the-number-plate/ And an old workshop manual: - https://www.scribd.com/document/487966478/D4B802D18D7-Body-Work-pdf

Depends on the tuner. Some will tweak the existing map so if it's had the fix, you might get some strange behaviour. A decent tuner should remove the fix, dpf, egr and map at the same time. You've not mentioned where the car will be used. You should check there are no regulations against emissions device tampering. Even more so as your post suggests it's going for permanent export.

A VAS6154 is not compatible with VCP. VCP requires it's own specific hardware It's should be possible if your VAS6154 works with ODIS engineering (not service). This should give an idea of what's involved: https://www.drive2.ru/l/466803709959995485/ Obviously you would need to read the correct bytes for the reversing lamps (see VAGHelper) rather than the front/rear fogs. All I would say is be super careful, it's easy to kill a BCM if you mess this up or your ODIS/VAS interface are buggy. Continue at your own risk...

I think as a rough guide, if you have a CD slot in the glovebox, you have MIB1. If there is no CD slot, it's a MIB2. May 2015 was the changeover so depending when your car was built, it could have either but I'm guessing a MIB1. From Skoda: If you connect your phone via USB (assuming Mirrorlink/Smartlink is activated): - MIB1 only support Mirrorlink - MIB2 support Smartlink which includes Android Auto, CarPlay and MirrorLink It might be best if you include a picture of your headunit showing the system information tab and it's part number. Once you've done that, I'm sure either @pab567 or @SashaGrace can walk you through you options. A quick google suggests an RRP of ~£1600 and various sites offering it at ~£1000!

Android Auto and CarPlay don't need to be distractions...? If you're using either for navigation, then they function in a very similar way to an inbuilt satnav as they use the entire radio screen to show maps and directions. The biggest advantages they have over the inbuilt satnav is live traffic/incident reporting and more recent map data. They also tend to have better voice control for entering destinations. Obviously the downside is data usage but most smartphones have data plans these days. Depends what you count as relatively cheap...? To be honest, if you have a MIB1 headunit, I'd be most tempted to grab a MIB2 headunit with smartlink. It might cost a little more than an aftermarket headunit but it should just work after coding etc.

Pretty sure it's T10b/2 to T52aa/20. That'll be pin 2 on headlight switch connector going directly to pin 20 on the black BCM connector If you're super lucky, the wire may already be there!

Mines certainly the rear pads, I can feel it taking extra effort to set off for the first time. After the initial clunk as they unstick, the car is absolutely fine for the rest of the journey or day normally

Rough guide for using VCP + VAGHelper can be found here: https://www.drive2.com/l/568355153657203363/ Make sure you keep a copy of the dump somewhere safe! When you load the dump in VAGHelper, you'll need to select the two reverse light channels and untick both cold and warm diagnostics

Watching with interest... I never once had the pads stick on my MK2 Octavia no matter the conditions or how long it stood. In the same parking space, conditions, usage etc, within a day the pads will stick on my MK3 vRS. Some times it can need a decent amount of throttle before the release with quite a loud crack. After they release, it takes a few brake applications to clean the discs and get rid of the sounds. They work perfectly at this point and no other issues with the brakes or handbrake :/

That all depends what the previous owner did! Normally, they'd be somewhere near the bulb, hopefully stuck to metal body work. I'd hope they were pretty obvious if fitted :/

I think it just clips onto a piece of plastic somewhere. I'd be tempted to fix it sooner rather than later as flapping around could damage it's wires. It looks like part number 11 on this diagram: Taken from https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2015-753/8/805-805000/ One rather pants video of a Leon owner randomly talking rather than actually replacing it, still it shows the sensor fitted:

Pretty sure it's the outdoor temperature sensor you're both seeing. Certainly matches the position on various other VAG cars. No idea what the easiest way to refit it is I'm afraid.

If the BCM supported LED's (should on a 2014) you can code the BCM with VCP or ODIS-e to remove the bulb out warning (not VCDS!). As for the OP, if the problem is still happening with halogen reverse lights, I'd disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and reconnect to see if a reset helps. If not, there could be a wiring issue or someone may have previously messed with the coding/lighting config. Hard to say for certain I'm afraid. Maybe check for load resistors?

Having done this on a MY18 Octavia I can answer some of your questions: - VC and non-VC use the same connector and wiring - If you want maps/radio logos/contact pictures, you'll need to add a MOST (fibre optic) cable and need a MIB 2.5 headunit - Part numbers are either 5E0920790 or 5E0920790A I'm not 100% what the difference between the part numbers are but I'd suggest the later A revision as the software version is much higher. The earlier version might not show the 'sporty' display which is my favourite! Little extra on map mode, the Columbus can display maps on the headunit and cluster concurrently, whereas the Amundsen can only display on one at a time. You'll need someone with ODIS with an online connection to match component protection and the immobiliser/keys. Quick few notes regarding the odometer: - The odometer can only be set on new clusters or those with very low mileage (100km or less?) - You can increase the odometer with a CAN simulator (adding ~4000 miles per day) - I'm not aware of any method to reduce the odometer As you have an pre-FL car you might need to replace the CAN-gateway but I'm sure @SashaGrace can add more info or correct me where needed

More or less my understanding, if it's your only fault code I'd probably ignore it

If you have a RLS (rain light sensor) for auto wipers, then you'll probably just need a new light switch, an extra wire to the BCM and some coding

Honestly no idea. It seems like the hatch and estate may also use difference schemes . At least based on a post from previous me (who'd believe that guy!? ) it seems that the estate may use a 21W rather than 21/4W so it has to use a PWM method to get the full C-shape. Easiest way to check is to remove the bulb holder, put some sunglasses on and ask an assistant to try the tail/brake lights. You should be able to see if the same filament is being used or if it swaps

I think you've misunderstood me? There are two 21/4w bulbs and two W3W used to create the C-shape tail lights in each rear cluster on a MK2 Octavia: - All four are lit as tail lights to give the C-shape - The top most 21/4W bulb gets brighter for brakes - The bottom most 21/4W bulb gets brighter for fogs That behaviour doesn't change, it's the method to achieve it that does. Note: Obviously there are two more 21W bulbs for reverse and indicator but that's unrelated to my point. It would be logical to assume the tail lights would use the two W3W and the two lower powered 4W filaments from the dual filament bulbs. I believe some earlier cars did use this method. Yet plenty of Octavia's use the two W3W and the two higher powered 21W filaments to create the C-shape. The car's BCM uses PWM to under drive the 21W filament to lower their brightness so they match the W3W bulbs. When either the brake or fog light is needed, it changes the duty cycle to increase the brightness An example would be my old MY12 Octavia hatch, on the connector to each rear cluster, there were only 5 wires despite the plug and socket having 6 positions: - ground - indicator - reverse - top/brake 21W filament - bottom/fog 21W filament - empty Despite this, I still had the full C-shape on both sides. The 6th position did have a track on the light cluster to the top/bottom 4W filaments but it had no wire and was unused. I can only imagine it was done to make bulb monitoring easier...?