langers2k

Use diagnostic equipment such as VCDS to clear the fault codes... If the faults are valid and come back, fix whatever is causing them then clear them again. Depending what you needed to do, you may need to run basic settings which also requires diagnostic equipment.

How did you try and jump start it? Have you checked the battery voltage? There are two fuseboxes: - one on the right of the engine bay - one behind the glovebox At a guess, I'd start in the engine bay and check the big midi (not blade) fuses along the front of the fusebox.

You have two level sensors, they should be on the passenger side front and rear suspension. It'll depend what caused them to point down to whether it's possible to reset them, you might need to fix the fault first

As you have bi-xenon's there is one projector per side which has two motors to move it. Both only move the projector and nothing else. I doubt it's a sticking motor as there is a feedback system. If the headlight is suppose to point forwards (higher speeds) but is pointing right, the system will know and flag up a fault. Obviously if the projector is flapping around on bumps etc, then a motor may have become disconnected but that seems very unlikely in your case. Given you've confirmed it's happening at higher speeds, I'll refer you back to my original reply: I'm sure I recall some other drivers having the same issue ages ago and the 'fix' was a software update for the AFS master which dictates where the headlights should point

Because that's how it's been designed to work It's exactly as I mentioned above, to give a shorter wider beam at low speeds. It'll give better illumination of both curbs within an urban environment and won't cause glare to other drivers given it also drops the headlight slightly. On my MK2 it was very noticeable regardless of weather conditions. Mostly at 20-35mph when the light would move between modes or if I stopped behind another car and I could see the light slowly return to the 'normal' position on their bumper As the start up routine is working (checks the projector motors and projector position sensors) and you have no faults on the dash, it feels like the system is working normally. The AFS system is pretty good at picking up faults as it'll then enter a 'safe mode' where the lights drop to their lowest position. To be honest, it feels like you've noticed something that's always been happening but now you can't un-notice it. You might want to give some more information at what speeds you're noticing the effect? You can also use VCDS to check for faults and log the headlights during a drive, depending where you are, a local member might be able to help

I think the image ScoutCJB only really covers high beam assist. Oh - seems like they removed it? The owners manual doesn't say much: This gives an idea of what the car is trying to achieve with different light modes: It's somewhat limited as it can only move the two xenon projectors up/down and left/right. It can't actually change the cut off shape on an MK3 Octavia. In practical terms, this means: - urban (town) - moves the drivers headlight down and towards the opposite curb to maximise the beam width - extra-urban (country) - normal light pattern - motorway (expressway) - raises the lights slightly to get a longer beam - rain/fog - does something to minimise glare, not sure exactly what - cornering lights (dynamic swivel) - moves both headlights left/right as you go round bends The behaviour you're describing tallies with urban/town/city mode and should be active to around 30mph/50kph. If it's still happening at higher speeds, then something maybe wrong with the system, possibly a software update is required. So yes, I'm saying it's normal for the drivers headlight to swing right (RHD cars) at low speeds and it'll be very noticeable in mist Ages ago, I logged the headlight movement on my MK2 Octavia (AFSII xenons) which clearly showed the urban, extra-urban and motorway modes plus cornering lights: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/392736-adaptive-xenon-headlights-possible-on-fl/

It's suppose to... It's known as city mode and should be active up to about 30mph/50kph if I remember correctly. If it's working above that speed, the AFS controller might need an update. I think there were some problems with some AFS software versions...?

Yes - it will need coding and probably some basic settings completing. To make you life easier, make you sure read the coding from the original ABS module before you remove it!!

I believe the bulb us a PWY24W. However, the panel you've pointed out needs to be cut out, then you buy a new cap/panel which attaches using the four screw mounts around the hole. I expect it's also a bumper off job depending on access.

Normal advice is to stick it on the windscreen within the hatched area near the rear view mirror. Heated windscreens or heat reflective coatings can cause issues with tags I believe

If you do get it from a breakers, you'll still need to budget for CP removal and feature activation. No idea what it costs these days though :/ With that level of dirt, I be worried about water damage... :(

Odd, possibly miscoded for some reason and they've reset it to the factory config. If you ever have access to diagnostic equipment such as VCDS, check the measuring blocks for the passenger door controller. If it has a memory motor fitted, you'll have an X and Y value that change as the mirror moves. If these values don't change or aren't there, then you don't have a memory motor and reverse dip won't work :(

I'm with MarkyG82 - my guess was a very dirty MIB2 Bolero

Might be worth paying for an hours subscription to https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do to get the factory documentation?

There isn't a memory button. Have the mirrors set up as you like them. Make sure the mirror switch is in L (for UK cars). Put the car in reverse and then adjust the mirror for reversing. If you have a memory mirror motor fitted, it should automatically re-adjust when you put it in a forward hear and set off. No need for a memory button 👍

YES! As I mentioned in your original thread It's not a 'hidden feature'. The BCM (Body Control Module) which controls the lights is fitted to various cars, it needs to be customisable to allow for various light configurations and country specific regulations. Due to this, each light output/channel in the BCM can be used for multiple functions to allow this. All that is needed to enable rear DRL aka Scandinavian mode, is adding the DRL function to the tail lights....

For the headunit/brains: - Quadlock is mic, speakers, power, CAN-bus etc - Yellow fakra is USB - Pink fakra is display (LVDS?) - Blue fakra is GPS - Dual white fakra is FM and AM/FM diversity antennas - Black fakra is DAB - Other rectangular connector is probably MOST (optical cables, only used for an amp or virtual cockpit) On the display: - Connector for power and communication (with the brains) - Fakra for video input from the brains Pretty sure it'll be possible to retrofit but you might want to talk to someone like ChinaRF http://www.ebaystores.co.uk/chinarf to see if they can make all the fakra cables you need. Otherwise, you can try tracing the existing wires to see if they pass the glovebox or not?

If it helps, this seems to be the original wiring diagram: https://www.drive2.ru/l/530317274016383479/ Looks like the climate panel tells the BCM to turn on a relay which causes a second relay to turn on. The two relays then provide two 30a feeds (one for each side) of the windscreen

Very unlikely I'm afraid. If you're doing a retrofit, expect to add all required wires :(

Yup, you can update the maps from Skoda. Try here: https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ For reference, on a '66 plate vRS you'll have a MIB2 Amundsen. You'll need to use an official Skoda SD card, you can reuse the existing one that's in the glovebox You should also be able to connect a using Android Auto or CarPlay with a USB cable assuming Smartlink is enabled.

This seems to be a continuation of the OP's other thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/488998-led/ Yes, it can be done with OBDeleven if you know what you're doing. However, as per my suggestion in the other thread, Gizmo is close by and can enable rear DRL for you. It'll be the easiest, cheapest and least risky way of achieving this

Pretty sure that's a MIB1 Amundsen. If you've not heard from Pab, it might be worth contacting these guys for advice: https://www.vw-retrofit.co.uk/product/skoda-amundsen-mib2-set-with-6-5-screen/ It's almost within budget but it'll depend if they actually need access for coding etc.

I think you're looking for: - 5Q0 825 710 (mid shield) - 5Q0 825 712 B (silencer shield) - 5Q0 253 144 N (exhaust mount) - N 0195307 (bolt for mount) As always, I'd suggest you double check the part numbers before buying Might be worth seeing what Mike can do for you: https://www.facebook.com/CoverdaleCP

Yup, the existing tail lights that come on at night would also be on during the day. Simples! No guarantee it'll stop people tailgating but it'll give you rear lights all the time in a safe and legal way. I think @Gizmo is relatively close and has a hex-net which can change the adaptation channels 👍

Stock behaviour is just front DRL. With tools such as VCDS or OBDeleven, you can also make the tail lights work as DRL. It doesn't matter if they are LED or normal bulbs. It's a simple two minute job 😉 I think even the dealer tool has a function to enable this. It certainly has on past models.