D402

A wheel can be buckled but still balance perfectly, and only a tiny distortion is needed to make a vibration you can feel. This recent thread mentions Skoda specifying 0.5mm as the maximum allowable run-out. Vibration through the steering wheel suggests that a front wheel is the problem, you could try swapping wheels front to rear to see if that makes any difference.

Buckled wheel would be my guess.

That's definitely not how the rest of the automotive industry define active and passive safety. I suspect this is your employers covering their arses against customers having problems after you've carried out repairs. If the insurance companies required this evidence for ADAS repairs, wouldn't they want the same evidence for work on tyres, brakes etc that are safety critical in every journey, not just the ones where ADAS might help?

Wow, where did you get that from? Active safety systems help to prevent collisions i.e. ABS, traction control, front collision intervention. Passive safety systems react to collisions i.e. crumple zones, seatbelts, airbags (all of them). Adaptive cruise control is a driver assistance system.

Sorry to question your qualifications but I find this hard to believe - Front Assist is not an MOT item so does not affect the legal roadworthiness of a vehicle. In any case, you can deactivate Front Assist through the infotainment, it would be ridiculous if doing this rendered your car unroadworthy and insurance invalid!

Looking good All Electric still going mad with the stickers though I see.

Absolutely right, I've seen it done with expensive consequences (boss's shoes got ruined ). You can get sealed bags of expanding foam intended for making custom packaging, if you can get them the right size and shape then they would be a safer alternative.

The only issue I had was that the parking ticket clip was a bit floppy afterwards. Parts-wise, either nothing needed replacing or the windscreen company knew what was required and supplied it.

The range estimate is far too quick to adjust to short term changes in driving conditions in my opinion. A 1.3 mile hill climbing 600' near me knocked the range down from 300 to 265 miles, I didn't get them back on the return journey either! In fact, the 'Greenscore' was worse on the way down

I wonder if it's got miles and km confused somehow - 32km being 20 miles, not far off your 18. You could try changing units then changing them back again.

Sensibly, the speed limiter still works with an odd tyre on It amazed me how quickly it's detected when you set off too.

Thermal performance is quite a challenge especially as higher power vehicle systems like power steering move to electric actuation and from in-cabin to underbonnet locations. Glad I'm the systems engineer specifying the requirements rather than the designer having to implement them!

It should be designed to work normally up to something like 105 °C ambient there.

Brake or clutch switch stuck on?

I use the Skoda reversible boot mat which works well for muddy MTBs: Superb III Combi - flip-folding boot mat

33k, it happened while I wasn't using the car for 5 weeks in February and March. A few weeks of frequent use including deliberate hard braking since then hasn't cleaned them up so I decided to replace. The old pads were hardly worn but there is a bad lip on the discs.

Replaced the front discs and pads as they'd rusted beyond recovery. Very pleased with the improvement in braking power and pedal feel.

Do you want to swap boxes with me? I leased mine as a 7 speed but it only has 6!

A solar charger plugged in to the lighter socket is working well for me, the car started up normally even after over a month out of use.

The problem is that you're manually releasing the park brake while in Park. The park brake will release automatically when you drive off, compensating for the gradient as needed, so you can just start up, select D and drive off whatever the gradient. Similarly, when parking up all you need to do is select P and switch off. It's a myth that holding the car on the parking pawl will damage it - that's what it's designed for!

Sometimes the TPMS seems to get upset for no apparent reason and repeatedly give a warning when all the pressures are ok; this warning doesn't point to a particular wheel . We've had four recent-ish SEATs and Skodas and they've all done it occassionally, often soon after fitting new tyres. The system does work though, we've also had genuine warnings that correctly identified tyres with low pressure. Keep resetting and it gets the message eventually.

I'm another satisfied Carista user; I've used it for brake pad changes and coding tweaks on a couple of cars. It cost £30 for the dongle last autumn which included a month's subscription to the full app and was the cheapest option at the time.

It all sounds normal; the first front assist warning will be uncomfortably close at higher speeds, I rarely see it. It uses the same radar sensor as ACC so if that works, so does front assist. You can activate/deactivate the manouevre braking in the Parking and Manouevring menu, I think white is on so perhaps you have it deactivated by default.

You can haggle on the buy back figure, and buying would save you the excess mileage and any damage charges

Because estate rear washers spray mostly outside where the wiper clears, it's hopeless!