Warrior193

Check all earth straps from engine to chassis.

OP says greater than 14 volts with engine running.

Try testing the battery voltage while the engine is being cranked-over - if much below 10 volts, battery is probably failing. Unless you have a parasitic drain on the vehicle, battery voltage should stay above 12.30 volts (70% SOC) for at least several weeks if vehicle is unused with battery in reasonable condition.

On rereading your post I'm assuming a 265 can only be pure ICE - sounds to me that either your alternator isn't charging correctly or the battery is faulty. What is the battery voltage when the engine is running?

Try driving it up onto kerb so that one side is raised and hit undertray with hand, it may dislodge lost cap onto road on low side.

Hello, is this vehicle any sort of hybrid - or is it a pure ICE one?

It sounds as if you've been lucky to not experience the 'teabag' failure issue - is the coolant still normal colour?

I assume you will be following recommended practice for TDI in replacing the water pump when you get the belt done.

Personally, I'd suggest topping the level back to just beneath the Max. line and monitor carefully for the next month - the quantity you have apparently 'lost' over a year is very small. Top up with G13 or G12 evo.

Another point, the reduced size spare is usually only intended as a temporary fitment until the damaged one can be repaired and refitted.

^^^This, plus the tyre on your 16 inch spare wheel will almost certainly be a different profile to the normal 17s fitted on the remaining corners - meaning that the overall circumference of the 16" will be similar to the 17"

If you are unable to do it yourself, I suggest you get a mechanic to check all engine mounts and replace as necessary - very likely that at least the one pictured has failed completely.

Hello Adam, welcome to the forum. I'd say that movement is excessive - how does it compare to the other side?

If you don't have a multimeter, can your charger read voltage while it's not charging? If so, leave it clamped to battery terminals while not charging and get someone to crank the engine over on the starter - voltage falling below around 10 volts indicates failing battery. A decent multimeter need not be expensive and is a very useful item for the toolbox.

AFAIK, the MQ250 was in production until at least 2020 - so in use for at least some early Mk4s

I strongly suspect your battery is failing, have you tried a load or cranking test?

Particulary atmospheric shot of the yacht wreck.

Also be very aware of and take precautions against static electricity discharge.

Absolutely no issues with either of our two Mk3 gearboxes (2015 & 2018 M6/MQ250?) - predominant use of both vehicles is relatively short trips. Both still on original clutches.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd suspect the phone charger (or possibly I-phone battery) is faulty - it sounds to me that it is shutting down because it is incorrectly detecting an excess current condition.

I've also seen it suggested to do the same when fitting a new brake shield. Not had issues with either of our vehicles - but it seems to be a common failure for the shields to rot away around the mounting bolts.

OK, but you didn't mention closed throttle in your original post.

Are you aware that the GPF regens on closed-throttle overrun? - not by using similar method as DPF regen.

I believe it's suggested to cut the backplate to enable it being removed without disturbing the hub.

At 'just over 12 volts' your battery SOC is only about 50%, I suggest that it needs to be recharged at the very least. Do you know if the replacement battery was adapted (coded) correctly when it was fitted?