Warrior193

Assuming OP has MIB2 infotainment system - the TPMS reset in in the settings section (tyres)

What was the condition of the old air filter? I suspect that if the filter box screws were badly rusted, it hadn't been changed for quite some time.

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Hello CV, did you get a rebate allowance for the broken spring?

On a Google search, I found an American website (VW TDI Discussion) that says minimum cranking speed must be greater than 200 RPM within 1 second of starter engagement.

The main function of an expansion vessel in any closed system, is (as it states on the tin) to allow for the expansion of the fluid as it heats up - fluids are normally incompressible, without an expansion vessel, fluid pressure would either increase to an unacceptable level through expansion as it heats up (causing failures at joint) - or be lost via any pressure relief valve - that's the reason there's a maximum fill level marked on the EV - to allow space for the heated fluid to expand.

You should be able to get all the CCA you need from a standard lead acid battery, especially if you fit the biggest option available, at a much reduced cost - or consider EFB.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Removing the cap releases the pressure in the cooling system - which reduces the boiling point of the coolant and can cause a hazardous, explosive release of steam as the coolant flashes-over. Unless you topped it up, what did the coolant level stabilise at when the system finally went cold?

Is your colleagues' vehicle fitted with automatic stop-start? If so, EFB is the minimum required - AGM is best, but more expensive. What type is the current battery? Was the replacement battery adapted (coded) when it was replaced? If the incorrect battery type was fitted - and was not correctly adapted, this will almost certainly be the cause of the issue.

From memory, no lower than about 10.5 volts - the trouble with doing this test with a multimeter is that it is almost impossible to see what the DMM display is showing because it is changing so rapidly - even an analogue meter is very difficult to read under those conditions.

A loose or dirty terminal connection will cause a significant issue both in charging and starting performance.

What is really needed is a 'Cold Cranking Test' which measures the point the battery voltage falls to while turning over the engine - if the voltage falls too low, the battery will be unable to supply the necessary current (amps) to reliably operate the starter motor at the minimum speed required for the engine to fire - this would explain why the vehicle in question did start when the Noco booster pack was connected. Another point - while the starter battery is being subjected to the extreme current draw of the starter motor, other ancillary devices (fuel pump, etc.) will be affected by significantly reduced operating voltage.

Hello, I strongly suggest getting the battery tested first - I have seen quite a few reports of TDIs reluctance to start, only to see the problem fixed when the failing battery was replaced. It seems that some TDIs are particularly sensitive to slower than normal cranking speeds.

If it's your car, and you paid for the diagnostic work, you are entitled to be told what the errors are. You will need to get the error codes somehow - perhaps by asking a forum member near you, or by getting your own code reader.

Hello Justin, welcome to the forum. Is this rev limiting while driving - or while stationary in neutral gear - do you know that engine revs are limited under those conditions? You will need to post any error codes found, have you got these?

If your lane assist camera has an alignment issue due to the replacement, it is possible that the HBA sensor (if fitted) suffers from a similar issue. Do you have HBA - does it work correctly?

My winters appear to be foreign body magnets, regular slow punctures from screws, etc 😒 - my TPMS reliably flags at approx. 0.5 bar / 7PSI.

I'd take a guess that fault 4 would almost certainly be related to number 5. You could try @ApertureS for a better answer for fault number 1.

That's a little steep for max. 5-10 mins work! - but it really needs doing. I assume that you haven't been able to find any Briskoda members with VCDS near you?

Hello Hedia, welcome to the forum. Error code 00516 refers to a throttle body closed position issue. Check that there is nothing preventing it from fully closing, also check TB wiring and connections.

Way over, I think, I don't remember the weigh bridge numbers when Dad and I raced it in the BP60 harbour races - I was running a Reece-Fish carb at the time, but no other mods - standard cooling. Yes, lots of hills - was living in Wellington, NZ at time.

I used to regularly tow a four metre open runabout with a Mk1 Mini (850cc) without issues in the early 70s.

Likely that the failure by your 'mechanic' to correctly adapt (code) your new battery when it was fitted has resulted in it being undercharged by the vehicles smart charging system - I'd strongly suggest getting it properly charged on an external charger (battery can stay connected in car) then getting a condition test done on it - hopefully, your new battery hasn't suffered damage. If it has, tell your (now) ex. garage you intend to make a warranty claim.

If UK registered - the first three or four letters of the engine number on your V5 document. It is also probably on the vehicle load plate (on the B pillar)

@TerenceWallis - does your car have automatic idle stop?