Warrior193

I believe that something like this was reported recently - I think a snap-ring locating an inner driveshaft had been damaged.

Ask for independent garage recommendations from members in your area.

Hello, are you aware that VAG have revised the cambelt replacement interval? - IIRC, it is no longer fixed at 5 years. There is extensive information on other sections of the forum.

I'd take a guess that it's a fuel pump driven off the camshaft. Just checked on Google - it's the high pressure injection pump.

Cheapest would probably be a breakers. Nut cover removal tool etc. can be sourced from Amazon or the 'Bay. Rather than packing an impact wrench, why not get a breaker bar and socket - or one of the extending type wheel braces?

Actual manufacturer of battery is not critical information - EFB or AGM, capacity in AHs, and a minor change to the existing serial number sequence (to tell battery monitoring unit that the battery has been replaced) are all that is necessary.

OP had lost a key - so no key available to swap out parts.

Hello, I'd suggest pulling the plugs and check their condition and gap first. Use a proper coil pack extractor so as to not damage them when removing.

I seem to recall that @skodud ended up rejecting the vehicle.

All speedometers in UK have a statutory requirement to overread - you will be perfectly OK to use the 50 KPH mark on the dial.

Try Google Translate. I just ran some Polish instructions for a new lawnmower and it worked surprisingly well for me.

BEV still not really there when compared to ICE - max. 4 fuel stops, totalling around 20 mins and only 1, or possibly 2 cards needed for entire trip.

Resting voltage (after all vehicle modules have gone to sleep) should be minimum 12.2 to 12.5 volts unloaded, but you really need to test with a proper battery tester and with the battery at full charge - or with a multimeter while the engine is being cranked-over, where the terminal voltage should not drop lower than a minimum of 10 to 11 volts. You should note that normal battery State of Charge (SOC) will usually be only approx. 75% due to the way the smart alternator operates to allow recuperative battery charging.

Also strongly suggest that you get the battery tested.

With mostly short trips, the smart alternator control unit limiting battery SOC to around 75% max. can become an issue - you don't normally get sufficient energy recuperation to maintain a decent SOC. To prevent excessive hard sulphation and ensure a reasonable battery lifespan, an occasional recharge or longer run should be considered.

Post deleted as already answered.

Thanks for reporting back, was the crank sensor replaced on this latest dealer visit - and how is it running now?

Assuming that you have had the Kamiq from new, this pipe was never fitted?

What is the tread depth over 75% of tyre? Is the scrubbing on the inside edge? if depth getting close to 3mm, I'd say replace for confidence.

Does the horn sound normal (or at all) when operated?

When you consider that micro processors control practically every single item in a modern vehicle, it's not surprising that spurious faults can get displayed when supply voltages start to drift.

If engine is now thought to be not running as well as previously, it is very possible that the belt has 'jumped' a notch on the pulley - the lost bolt could well have fallen between the belt and pulley when it was displaced. It also sounds as if the tensioner has failed. These issues need to be checked immediately before any further damage occurs.

Possibly some binding on the front brake pads/calliper's? Have you checked front hubs for excess heat after a drive?

OP was asking about 1.0 TSI.

@Ootohere - As from my profile, my TSI Octavia.