Warrior193

As the fault can be caused by either a failing slave or master cylinder, suggest that your dealer workshop replaces the master cylinder first - that is a simple job not requiring removal of the gearbox.

Hello S W, is yours the 110 PS engine?

When this latest failure to fill happened, did you try rocking the vehicle to see if that cleared the filler tube?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Did you inspect the old spark plugs - particularly number 3, how did they look? Suggest a compression test as the next step.

It is actually a statutory requirement in the UK to indicate lane changes - especially on motorways.

Personally, I'd go for the higher speed rating if that price is correct. My money's on the difference in ride comfort being indistinguishable.

Southern Comfort was commenting on the common practice in the UK of not indicating lane changes (and its consequent impact on lane assist) I was agreeing, and added that even if you don't think there is a vehicle following, there is a reason for the mandatory requirement in the UK to indicate lane changes.

^^^^^^ + this, and then there is the 'vehicle in blind spot' scenario. I loose count of many times I have to brake in lane 3-4 when someone pulls out in front of me from lane 2-3 without indicating.

Hello, they aren't clutch specialists, but I could recommend giving Chamberlains (020 8399 2000) a call if they're not too far from you. They're just off the A3 in New Malden.

Hello, welcome to the forum. From that schematic, it looks like you also need parts 16 and 17 - 16 looks like a hexagon plug.

From other postings with this apparent failure, it seems that the sensor was simply replaced. It appears that the fault typically does not raise a DTC - not sure, but gained the impression that the crank sensor was reading, but possibly indicating incorrect crank angle? Suggest flagging @ApertureS

Good morning Patrick, welcome to the forum. I have seen a few members with similar TDI issue - suggest checking the crankshaft position sensor, as this can apparently cause the issue you have.

For me, I regret not specifying ACC when I bought the Octavia - I find that standard cruise does not fit in particularly well with normal UK motorway conditions, with traffic speed varying so much and constantly having to manually adjust speed - or disengage it, unless I'm travelling at 0-dark hundred hours (which SWMBO dislikes). I'm perfectly happy with standard cruise on US or Canadian roads - less so in the UK.

After a very brief look on the web - and it may be a big simplification - but it would seem that the main difference between the two ACC systems is the variation of speed/braking to changing speed limits and road layouts on the predictive system, whereas the standard adaptive cruise just follows the vehicle in front. I gather that some unwanted parameters of the predictive system can be changed or 'dialled-out' in the infotainment system.

Hello, welcome to the forum. What is it that your wife dislikes with ACC? Do you know if your Kodiaq has Adaptive Cruise - or Predictive Cruise?

Because they are likely to pass more dust/dirt into the engine than a disposable one unless scrupulously maintained - this is the reason you usually get more induction noise from the washable type. The engine code may also be on the B pillar weight plate.

It seems that there are several variations of viscosity for the 1.2 TSI - use your engine code (3 or 4 letters in front of engine number on your V5) to find the correct one. I would not recommend replacing your engine air filter with a washable one - just use the recommended type to replace.

IIRC, semi-synthetic is compatible with fully-synthetic for top ups, although like for like is best. There was once (very long ago) a strong recommendation to never mix mineral with synthetic - but not sure if that applies now. A quick Google search will tell you the correct oil spec. and viscosity for your engine. With regards to oil brand, provided the oil complies with specification and is from a reliable refiner, I'm not really convinced that the actual brand is that important. You will find a huge difference in prices between brands for what is effectively the same product.

Is there any way to scroll to the rest of the fault description? Too .......

At a guess, around 1/2 litre too high, might not be critical - but excess oil does need to be extracted ASAP - and the question needs to be asked, why did your mechanic not check oil level was correct on completion of the service.

The difference between 16 and 18 inch is not as much as it would seem - generally, the smaller wheels are fitted with a higher profile tyre (taller sidewall) ending up with a similar overall diameter.

You really need to get your mechanic to extract the excess oil as soon as possible. Recommend that the vehicle is not driven until oil level has been reduced until it reads no more than max line.

Ooooh, a fence sitter 😄

I assume you are aware that the uprated rear ARB will reduce understeer and may even induce slight oversteer.

The protective cover for the terminals on the fuse board - you really do not want to drop any metal object across those.