Warrior193

The 'sudden drop in power' you describe is highly unlikely to be a problem related to the gearbox - unless the clutch is starting to slip. Most probably engine limp mode / DPF issues. Do you have manual or DSG gearbox?

It would be ideal if you could drain approx. 0.25 litre of oil back out - the easiest way would be if your oil extractor hose is small enough to fit down the dip stick tube - otherwise, by loosening, but not completely removing, the oil drain plug, as suggested by Breezy Pete.

I'm guessing that Nico wants to know how to access the connectors for the high-level brake light.

From a very long time ago, I seem to recall that cars shipped to OZ from the Mother Country were often identical to home model - apart from being given a lower final drive gear ratio. I can't recall actual RPM figures of my Octavia at 80 plus - er - '72MPH officer, why do you ask'? - but the M6 1.4 is a pretty lazy cruiser - considering having to change-down for an overtake is extremely rare for me.

Sports mode with DSG will move the shift points up the rev band a fair bit, and should sharpen the throttle and steering response - the dampers too, if you have active suspension (DCC?)

I assume you have something like a 2.0 litre TSI 245 or more - I only have a lowly 1.4 150PS - these engines have very good torque and yours will likely have a pretty high final gear ratio.

- or set it to a point you don't usually wish to exceed.

You say the engine is overheating - yet the temperature gauge is indicating normal temperature. You feel that 'the heat from the engine bay is a lot more than before' - but you do not say coolant is being lost since you had the charge cooler replaced, so I'm assuming it's not now - are you sure that the extra engine heat you feel is not just the DPF trying to go through a regeneration ?

Have you had the wheel alignment checked, are there signs of unusual tyre wear? Was it a front wheel that was damaged?

Ford GT40 Mk 1 or 2 - LA to NY road trip just for the hell of it. 😄

Very likely that or bottom hose/connections.

If the Citigo's coolant is not currently a bright colour, you could try a tracer dye to help spot the leak. Check the area around the bottom of the radiator very closely.

The only way will be to establish where the coolant leak is - check the ground carefully beneath the engine and all around it when it has been stopped for a while after a run. Difficult in wet weather if the vehicle isn't garaged. Are there any signs of overheating before the coolant level light comes on?

Fault code P190E 00 points towards an intercooler coolant pump fault (supply voltage)

Yeah, we Kiwis were trying to save the planet starting from the late 60s - especially every time it kicked-off in the middle east - hell, we even cancelled NZs first shot at running a round of the World Rally Championship in 1974. Don't tell anyone, but it was our neighbours from across the Tasman who were more into big V8s - us poor Kiwis couldn't afford the fuel 😇

What indication are you getting that your engine is overheating if the temperature gauge is displaying normal?

Is there anything unusual about the cold start method on that carburettor type - does it use the usual butterfly flap? Is the LPG conversion a standard, commercial unit? My step father ran a Taxi on LPG in NZ- I seem to recall him saying it was easier to start in winter by temporarily switching to petrol, as it was difficult to optimise the engine for both fuels in dual fuel. If I recall correctly, that situation was made even worse if using CNG. I'd suggest blanking-off or replacing the faulty EGR and check any vacuum connections for leaks.

Hello, are the plugs all the same heat range? Your description sounds as if cylinders 1 and 4 are running too rich - while 2 and 3 are too lean. It's hard to understand how the carburettor or inlet manifold could do that. Have you checked cylinder compressions? How does the engine run - any loss of power or misfiring? I'd suggest fitting new, correctly-gapped plugs and recheck after a reasonable mileage.

It can possibly be a sign of the battery fading - but at only three years old, probably not. Possibly worth getting the battery tested anyway. NB. a battery test is only accurate if the battery is fully charged before testing - due to the 'smart' alternator fitted in these micro-hybrids, the normal SOC will usually be around 75 - 80%.

The really critical thing is what the battery voltage drops to when the starter motor cranks the engine over - it is a very big load. An impromptu load test could be done with your meter probes on the battery terminals while someone starts the engine, perhaps with the headlights on too. The meter reading will be very fleeting and difficult to read - especially if your meter is a DMM with a slow update rate.

In my defence, I thought that the OP was asking about suspension. It is my understanding that Koni actives are self-contained and are a straight swap for standard units.

If the OPs measurement is correct, we are only talking a fraction of a millimetre difference. I'd suspect that sort of difference could very well be within spec. considering that the ride height has been substantially reduced - presumably with aftermarket springs.

That will be caused by the voltage drop while starting the engine, my Nextbase camera does the same. Possibly your battery SOC is a little lower now with the lower temperatures than it was during the warmer months.

Hello @doughobbs I found what might possibly be useful information on the Ross-Tech forum - try a search on www.partslink24.com. It seems that, apart from the roof and rear quarters, a lot of the panels are identical.

To me, the 'siren' noise would suggest a failing bearing - or badly damaged gear teeth - but I would have thought the noise would always be there in that gear - not just during the shift. I was thinking the noise was from the hub itself, as it was trying (and failing) to match gears, but I don't recall ever hearing anything as loud as OP describes.