Warrior193

I think a faulty steering wheel lock is unlikely to be the cause. I'm wondering if your start button has failed - I have see recent posts where this turned out to be the cause. Does the instrument panel light up when you attempt to start?

Hello Zaander, welcome to the forum. My understanding is that the fob sensor is in or around the engine start button - it may be incorporated in the button. I recall that the procedure for activating the immobiliser with a dead key fob battery is to place the fob directly against the start button. The 'depress brake pedal' issue will probably be a separate problem.

Welcome to the forum cobber. Battery adaptation (coding) depends on whether or not your new vehicle is fitted with micro-hybrid energy recuperation - does it have automatic idle stop (stop-start)?

Good evening BB, welcome to the forum. I can remember Skoda's when they first started arriving in NZ in the early 70s - they had many features fitted as standard which were not available or only as expensive options on most makes.

Most likely explanation for the reference to 'automatic gearbox' oil would be that North American (and possibly Australian) versions are fitted with a TC automatic gearbox.

The alarm tone in your first clip is the audio alert that the handbrake is on, there should also be a visual warning flashed up somewhere on the screen.

Yes, that is correct. There was another posting a while ago, where someone spotted that the design of the level probes had been changed - possibly in response to issues with previous type.

Good morning, welcome to the forum. The Stop Start fault is probably a red herring - you will need to get the fault codes read from the cars diagnostic port. The stop start report will almost certainly be a consequence of some error in engine operation.

It's a real pity that Skoda don't offer the Webasto auxiliary heater as an option in UK. I wanted one when I was ordering the Octavia, but was advised only available on Scandinavian orders. 😒

Well, the question was 'character' - didn't specify whether good or bad 🤣

For that menu, AGM makes more sense than the old term 'fleece' and would be correct. I've not seen the EFB+ before - anyone know what the difference is?

I suspect a loose connection on the supply tag has caused that overheating and failure. Looks to be a high current supply.

That is my understanding - I recall some discussions a few years back regarding upgrading standard cruise to ACC, as I was interested in doing it.

The 3 or 4 letters in front of the engine number on your V5 registration form are the engine code.

Excessive negative or positive camber will tend to respectively wear inside or outside edge of tyre - instead of even wear over the full width of tyre. Some negative camber is desirable for handling, especially in cornering - but excess negative will cause wearing of the inside edges of tyre.

Hello, if I'm correctly reading the figures you give, your front left wheel has slight positive camber (top of wheel leaning out) and the front right has slight negative. Are you able to say what the actual unit of measurement used is - is it degrees of arc? Is there an indication on the alignment printout that these readings are within allowed specification?

Hello, depending on the trim level, ACC is often an optional extra. The radar block in the front grill is for the collision avoidance 'front assist' braking system - ACC uses a different model of camera behind the rear-view mirror. The easiest way to identify if vehicle has ACC is to check the control stalk, as the normal cruise (usually standard) stalk is different.

I think you will find that the original battery technology was entered incorrectly - other members have reported issues when mistakenly using 'AGM' as the setting - As @Peter120000 says, AGM battery should be entered as 'Fleece'

I believe the G12 Evo coolant does not require the silikat additive - in any case, it is recommended to replace coolant at certain intervals to preserve anti-freeze and anti-corrosion levels.. My understanding of having the silikat bag in the expansion tank pre G12 Evo, was to serve in extending the coolant change periods.

My original suggestion for syringing out the expansion tank with a turkey baster was simply for eliminating any spillage onto engine bay paint (I'm not really that mean to save on 250mls of antifreeze 😄) But I do strongly recommend investing in a proper pair (inexpensive) of hose clip pliers.

I found the most difficult bit was getting damper arm to stay in the correct angle while getting compartment into position. I think I resorted to using a strip of gaffa tape over the pivot in the end.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd suggest a through clean of the full length, then a quality flexible, adhesive sealant - making sure to get it right up into the corners beneath the flexible seals.

Wow, 26.5 degrees - welcome to my sauna.😃

Yes, there is a current monitor tagged (small plug-in) on the battery neg. terminal.

Unfortunately this is a fairly common 'cash generator' for unscrupulous garages.