Warrior193

I think that even with the TB rear suspension, there is some, limited alignment possible (camber?) - but nothing like as much as the IRS.

Hello snuffy, welcome to the forum. The leak will almost certainly be from the recent repair.

The 1.4/1.5 has torsion bar rear suspension, VRS has full IRS.

I'm wondering if that epoxy repair is actually hiding a crack in the casing suffered when the fin was broken off.

Or a little too much negative camber on the affected wheel?

They shouldn't charge you for giving confirmation that the battery was installed correctly - but it is quite possible that they do not know unless they plug a code reader into the vehicle to check - IMO, they should not charge for this either, but they might.

You may be able to get a reasonable charge from a long run, but it would probably need to be at least several hours and it is very dependant on the condition of the battery. You can get a digital voltage meter that plugs into the 12 volt socket by the hand brake, which will give you some indication of the alternator output. Cheap on Amazon.

You need to have access to a battery charger - preferably one of the modern 'smart' chargers. The battery can be charged while it is still fitted to the vehicle, but it is important to attach the negative charger lead to the correct tag which is located on the engine compartment firewall.

That could be an indication - by the battery voltage dropping very low during start - it can also cause lots of spurious fault indications to light up on the instrument panel. Have you noticed the idle stop-start not working recently?

If the dealer says the battery was replaced in 2021, request confirmation from them that it was correctly adapted (coded) into the vehicles monitoring system. Also get the alternator output tested.

If your starter battery is original, it's very possible that it is failing. Get it fully charged, then tested - preferably with a high discharge load-test.

Was that 'grinding' noise as you changed gear - especially on downshift - or all the time?

I think you will find the 1.4TSI gives you more than enough power - I normally prefer manual box, but have driven a Canadian 1.4 Passat with the Aisin 8-speed and I liked it.

Breezy Pete advised in your other post which cable you need to disconnect - there was a specific note in your installation instructions to NOT connect the reverse sensor cable if there was no reverse camera fitted.

Hi, from the instructions you post I believe they are saying do not connect the pink cable to anything - "wrap the pink wire separately" probably means insulate and leave it disconnected.

Has the dealer offered a loan vehicle while these issues are being rectified?

Hello Sam, welcome to the forum. Hmmm, a rare case of dealer speak with forked tongue! Was the brake shudder noticeable on the test drive - if so, what did the sales rep. say about it? Is there any unusual associated noise when braking? Is there a ABS fault indicator light lit on the panel?

Hello Ken, are you sure that the battery is ok?

Hello Ken, is your battery discharged - or is there some fault with the ignition switch?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Skoda discontinued the battery status (SOC) indicator some time before model year 16 (October 2015) The suspicion is that this was due to complaints about the 'smart' alternator only allowing battery to charge to approx. 75%.

Hello Lily, welcome to the forum. The car can be fitted with either EFB or AGM battery, either type is correct - AGM is better, but considerably more expensive. Given the advice you have been given by your garage so far, it sounds very possible that the replacement battery has not been correctly adapted (coded) into the vehicle when it was fitted - this should be checked/confirmed asap.

That should not be an issue - especially if your replacement is another EFB. Make sure you do get it adapted correctly asap though.

In your original post you said that your hazard lights were permanently on - I'm now confused as to how your fault is actually manifesting itself.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd start by making a careful check of the hazard light switch operation - possibly stuck in 'on' position.

The only time I would consider an engine oil flush might be necessary would be if service intervals had been severely neglected - or the oil had become contaminated in some way - and would use normal lubricating oil for the purpose.