Warrior193

Hello, welcome to the forum. I would recommend getting it done by an independent garage who have the correct equipment. You might be lucky and not have too many issues with airlocks by doing it yourself - but there is some risk that you will. Are you changing the coolant because you have removed the silicate bag from the expansion tank?

How big a mortgage do you have to take for a bottle of Scotch nowadays? I can still remember some of your Countrymen visiting Moscow just for the Vodka when I was on a trip there in the 80's

One thing that might be getting overlooked with predominantly low mileage running is the likelihood of plate hard sulphation as a result of persistently lower charge state (<75% SOC) In this instance, a good case for the occasional maintenance charge to 100% with a suitable charger.

Good morning Jatra, welcome to the forum. From your comment about converting to multifuel, I'm guessing petrol is horribly expensive there?

Check that the battery post connections are clean and correctly tightened.

Have you tried a search on the forum? I'd guess that all models use a similar alarm unit - from what I've read, the unit is sealed and the self-contained battery is soldered onto the PCB. It appears that the alarm unit is not intended to be a serviceable item. Replacing the battery appears to require cutting open the unit, and de-soldering the old battery - but there is a possibility that the PCB suffers damage if the battery electrolyte leaks.

Unless familiar with the process, probably best left to a mechanic. Battery needs to be in reasonable state of charge to ensure sufficient cranking speed. Remove spark plugs, attach cylinder compression test meter, crank engine over to establish engine compression, note reading and repeat for each cylinder. This gives you the dry compression readings. Repeat the process, after injecting a small quantity of lube oil into each cylinder before compression test. Resultant figures should be within specification, each cylinder reading should be reasonably similar (IIRC, within approx. 10% low to high) - marked differences between 'dry' and 'wet' figures indicates issue with piston rings.

Oops, apologies for translocating you. A little better than here - E10 (95 oct) cost me £1.47 a litre yesterday fuelling SWMBOs Fabia for her upcoming trip to Skomer to photograph the Puffins.

Hi cobber, welcome to the forum. What do the Pump Bandits rush you for a litre of diesel in SA?

Quite possible that the recent oil change was slightly short of a complete fill.

It is normal for an engine to use a small quantity of oil - provided the usage does not exceed specifications, there is nothing to worry about. Some engines may appear to not use oil between oil services, but small usage is normal.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd recommend topping up now rather than waiting for the low oil level light to come on. You will probably find it will take at least 0.5 litre to raise the level to the Max. Fill level - but suggest adding oil at approx. 0.25 litres at a time, then recheck dip stick level, allowing 1-2 minutes each time you add oil, for it to reach the sump. Recheck the level when the engine has reached normal operating temperature - again after allowing time for the oil to drain back to the sump.

Mine and SWMBO's are the new type - firing-pin one end, seatbelt cutter the other - the mounting bracket baseplate is self adhesive and I stuck ours on the RHS of the instrument binnacle.

Even better - S&W large-frame .500 cal. 😁

Not so weird when you think about it, most or all of the errors displayed in your case have a vehicle speed component related to them - I.e. stop-start reengages only after the vehicle has moved a certain distance and speed since the last stop, TPMS and ABS/ESC are looking at wheel rotation rate, etc.

Unless there is a diversion in place, that sounds like it might be an issue with Waze. Do you have OEM GPS as well - what does that show for the same roundabouts?

I think the Aussies get the Aisin 8-speed TC box on their automatics.

I think I have seen an image posted on this forum which looked like the oil pump belt was a toothed one - can someone confirm?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Were the valve guides measured for wear when the stem seals were replaced?

Hers is 2018, but the information I have is that they started fitting GPF to the 1.0 TSI sometime in 2017.

I guess that you don't have key care insurance?

No issues with SWMBOs Fabia to date, will keep that GPF cleaning recommendation in mind though.

You can get replacements made at some branches of Timpsons, from mobile key suppliers - or take the hit and get your local dealer to supply and encode one.

EA211, 1.0TSI 110 CZHC - yes, with GPF - my information is that GPF was fitted from 2017.

I would add that SWMBOs Fabia 1.0TSI 110 only exhibits this assumed anti-stall behaviour on first start from cold - simply controlled by anticipating and using brake pedal.