Warrior193

That's a little steep for max. 5-10 mins work! - but it really needs doing. I assume that you haven't been able to find any Briskoda members with VCDS near you?

Hello Hedia, welcome to the forum. Error code 00516 refers to a throttle body closed position issue. Check that there is nothing preventing it from fully closing, also check TB wiring and connections.

Way over, I think, I don't remember the weigh bridge numbers when Dad and I raced it in the BP60 harbour races - I was running a Reece-Fish carb at the time, but no other mods - standard cooling. Yes, lots of hills - was living in Wellington, NZ at time.

I used to regularly tow a four metre open runabout with a Mk1 Mini (850cc) without issues in the early 70s.

Likely that the failure by your 'mechanic' to correctly adapt (code) your new battery when it was fitted has resulted in it being undercharged by the vehicles smart charging system - I'd strongly suggest getting it properly charged on an external charger (battery can stay connected in car) then getting a condition test done on it - hopefully, your new battery hasn't suffered damage. If it has, tell your (now) ex. garage you intend to make a warranty claim.

If UK registered - the first three or four letters of the engine number on your V5 document. It is also probably on the vehicle load plate (on the B pillar)

@TerenceWallis - does your car have automatic idle stop?

Hello Terence, welcome to the forum. I'm afraid that it's one of two things - either the 'senior mechanic' is incompetent - or he's lying. Skoda do not manufacture batteries - VAG have them supplied by whoever has the contract, it is the same for tyres. All that has to be done is to enter the battery type (AGM in this case) The AH rating (70 in this case) - and a serial number (can be made up, or simply change the last digit of the old serial number) so that the BCM knows that a new battery has been fitted.

Glad that puss got back home safely.

Unfortunately, that's not the case - my Octavia Combi has a towing weight listed on the load plate - and I know that it doesn't have tow bar prep. The 'max. towed weight' figure just means that a tow bar is permitted.

That button is for automatic idle stop.

That looks like a simple cabin heating and ventilation system - not one with AC.

Gday cobber, if you've had the vehicle from new - just reread your post and see that you bought 2nd hand. The white PR code sticker in the trunk may have the information if you are able to decode it - or you could try a PM to @ApertureS - you may need to let him know your VIN for the full build code. Good luck.

Both front and rear 12 volt sockets are permanently live.

When you think about how an override (inertial) type trailer braking system currently works - tow vehicle starts braking, trailer pushes against tow coupling - possibly with some force - which then operates the trailer brakes - I can see a potential for jack-knifing the rig if the push against the rear of the tow vehicle happened while in a turn. If you consider, ABS and front-assist emergency braking operate on a electro-hydraulic system, I can see a trailer braking system not necessarily needing to be so complicated. With the trailer brakes being applied at the same time as the tow vehicle, or even slightly in advance, I can see a potential gain in stability from that type of system. It would work in much the same manner as a big rig.

I think I've heard of electro-hydraulic or electrically operated brakes being used on trailers across the pond - possibly also a thing in The Land Down Under. 😁

Hmmm, 2nd owner getting rid fairly quickly?

Good grief, how far did the dealership test drive your car to use that much oil?

@Shubh was it merely an adjustment required to the radar sensor - or had there been some damage to the mountings?

I'd suspect that the play in the right CV joint will be found to be the culprit. In my experience, the body of the CV joint is an integral part of the drive shaft. Also in past experience - although not recent - it was common, particularly for an out of balance front wheel, for a vibration to manifest at a fairly specific rotation speed - probably a harmonic frequency.

Possibly worn valve stem seals/guides?

Do your water and oil temperature readings look OK?

Even if the old nut had been reused (inadvisable as it appears to be a 'nylock' type) I'd expect to see corrosion disturbance on the points. To me, that joint boot looks like it has split.

I have to say that joint certainly doesn't look as if it has been disturbed recently.

See what the inspection throws up, do you have access to a mechanic / garage you trust? One quick test you could do to check for wear in the drive-shaft CV joints is to drive round a circle in both directions at full lock and listen for any knocking noises.