Warrior193

The various vehicle control modules draw current from the battery while they are active - there is a period after the vehicle is shut down where they continue to draw current, this period can run to at least 15 - 20 minutes and the battery will display a lower voltage while this current is being drawn-off. I have seen references from other members that say disabling the hood (bonnet) lock is necessary - so that it can be opened when accessing the battery terminals - but I simply pop the hood to 1st release, then lock vehicle and leave it for 30 mins or more until I'm sure everything has shut down. That 13.3 volt alternator output looks low - does it rise to around 14.5 volts at higher engine (say 1500rpm) speed?

Try pushing upper edge of the cover inwards. Press outer edge for the front cover.

Mib2 Start Facelift O3. My 2015 Mk3, MY16 (pre-facelift) has MIB2, I believe MIB2 was introduced after MY15.

Welcome to the forum. Your new (to you) vehicle is a micro-hybrid and battery charge state can suffer from persistent short trips as there is a considerable reliance on regenerative charging for the battery (under overrun or braking conditions) Although only 18 months old, it is possible that through being allowed to discharge excessively in past ownership, the battery is faulty. Recommend acquisition of an accurate, high-count DMM for your toolbox (these don't cost much) and arm yourself with some data for possible warranty challenge with the dealer. Check battery voltage with engine off and all control modules in sleep mode. Check what voltage the alternator is outputting to the battery terminals at idle speed. Check what battery voltage drops to when engine is cranked-over.

For 2016, you probably have a MIB2 unit.

In your original post you said the vehicle 'swerves' to left - do you mean it is a sudden, uncontrollable move - or is it a more gradual movement to the left when the steering wheel is released?

See my other comment - I believe you have front/rear pressure bias wrong.

You say the pressures are "OK" but what pressures are you running? Ignore, I see already answered. IMO, you have the pressures back to front - rear pressures should normally be same or higher than fronts.

Unless the 12.081 volts is while the battery is under load, that figure on a EFB is a fraction over 50% SOC - not 73% as stated by your scan. Battery health would appear to be around 30%.

Is your Scoob battery a standard lead-acid - or EFB/AGM?

What charger are you using?

Provided there is no load on the battery, 12.10 volts on a EFB/AGM is less than 60% charged. 10.5 volts on cranking is reasonable given the relatively low SOC. 14.3 volts on charging is a little low - but again may be due to low SOC of battery.

No, look at the top of the terminal itself - I can see it is / 18 (2018)

The visual warning in the instrument cluster should initially display text (with chime) for which wheel is detected - this text disappears after a few seconds, leaving only the general TPMS warning. The actual wheel affected is stored in the information when the data is interrogated via the infotainment system.

As per a post from @silver1011 quite a few years ago, there are at least 9 parameters that must be met for automatic stop-start to be enabled - coolant, ambient and battery temperature are three of them.

There is often a date code stamped on the top of the battery negative terminal (format is WWYY) very possible that your battery is original, therefore around 7 years old. Rather than blindly replacing what is possibly a still serviceable battery, I'd suggest testing it for condition first.

I've had more than a few slow punctures due to nails and screws picked up in treads - typically, my Octavia indirect TPMS does not flag until pressure loss is approx. 0.5 bar (normally run 2.6 fronts, 2.8 rear)

Some Skoda models do have direct TPMS as an cost option - but, AFAIK, the majority use the indirect system via the ABS sensors. Reading the OBD system data may reveal historical DTCs regarding tyre pressure loss, it wont show pressures, but might show a series of events for the affected tyre.

Thanks for the report Slarti 😄 - I'm a little surprised that a brushless servo isn't used for flap release.

It is possible that there are actually DTCs registered against the event - but your reader is unable to read them. What device did you use?

I think the issue with Ali vendors (at least in my case) is the reliability (or otherwise) of the vendors in respect to actual delivery of paid-for goods - not the card itself.

There are also quite a few being touted on the Ali at very low prices - but be warned, I got burned a few years ago when an ordered and paid-for card didn't arrive and just got given a lot of nonsense from the vender - finally ended up doing a charge reversal through my credit card provider to which the vender didn't even respond!

Yes I believe any Skoda-branded SD navigation card will work, it is also possible that any VAG card will also work - you should try for 32gb card if you intend to use full EU maps as the 16gb card reportedly requires files to be edited-out to fit. There was a member selling 32gb cards on this forum a few years ago, otherwise try Ebay - there are sellers on there.

Hello Martin, welcome to the forum. For the Amundsen MIB2 unit, you require a genuine, Skoda-branded (or possibly VAG) SD card for the GPS port. I currently have my Amundsen running on 2025 maps - not sure about latest 2026.

If you mean the pre-engage solenoid, I wouldn't initially suspect it for slow crank - it is either on or off - pulling the starter pinion into engagement with the flywheel ring gear and closing the main contacts to supply power to the starter motor. Dirty contacts in the solenoid could cause your issue - but I'd be first looking at all large electrical connections (earth straps, etc) to the engine first.