Warrior193

Apart from the one that goes 'I wonder what will happen if I press that big red button' 😄

Don't feel that way - there are no foolish questions.

If I recall correctly, indirect TPMS will not trigger a warning until at least 0.5 bar drop, That may be why it didn't flag. I think re-inflation of the tyre seemingly fixing the front assist may be coincidental, if the TPMS warning hadn't triggered.

Hello Daniel, welcome to the forum. That is normal for the rev limiter to operate in neutral.

Hello Maen, hopefully someone with knowledge of this engine will be along to help, but I'd be taking a close look at turbo and DPF. Does it do regular DPF regens?

That sounds like 'routine maintenance' is a bad word (or two) over there - does that term not exist in French? 😬

Engine code is first 3 or 4 letters at beginning of your engine number - if UK, this code is shown on your registration document.

You forgot - No good deed ever goes unpunished 😬

Hello Maen, welcome to the forum. To allow forum members to help you, you need to supply details of - engine capacity / code, and fuel type. Initially, I'd suspect the turbo - has the boost pressure been checked?

Hello @blackedition welcome to the forum. Not sure about the Mk2 - but in the Mk3 there is a tick box option in the MIB infotainment menu (IIRC - 'convenience opening') for selecting 'ALL' or drivers door only to unlock, check if the 'ALL doors' option is ticked.

I particularly liked the crossed-up Escort.

@dmus9230 how have you powered the new TPMS system? - the OP says that you need a permanent 12 volt supply - it sounds as if yours is switching off with the ignition.

^^^^^ as per @kodiaqsportline, I also continued with existing insurer - although my premium increase was £100 - my usual online comparison site could only offer a lowest price that was considerably worse!😒

Hello CJ, welcome to the forum. If your system is original, you will have the MIB1 - I believe the MIB2 came out around MY16 (late 2015)

Hello Somniax, welcome to the fold. It is possible that your tank is one without the silicate additive fitted - AFAIK, VAG stopped fitting these at some point, hopefully some one will be along to confirm when the change was made. I believe that there are three versions of expansion tank - 1; The original type with a silicate 'tea bag' fitted - it seems that this is the one guilty of most issues with coolant discolouring and blockages: 2; Updated version incorporating a plastic 'tube' in the tank - AFAIK, this type was OK as it is unlikely to split: 3; No silicate dispenser included: The silicate granules are intended to extend the service life by leaching slowly out into the coolant - and AFAIK, would be OK left in place - provided they stayed where it was intended.

Hello Andrew, welcome to the forum. Only able to answer 1 of your questions - the VRS does have the independent rear suspension.

@J.R. That technique sounds a little like the old procedure for competition pads (DS11) - gentle braking until the pads bedded-in - then hard braking to form a conditioned surface. Following that process, to maintain the anti-fade surface that had been formed, it was necessary to avoid gentle braking which would wear away the anti-fade surface.

I had not seen your previous postings regarding noise and pulsing under braking - It remains a concern that the rear discs, which would normally provide very little braking effort except under ESP conditions, have warped - have underlying causes for this been checked?

I can't give an opinion on the 1.5 - but I love my 1.4TSI - good, low-down torque, smooth as silk and very good economy. The early 1.5 / DSG combo was reported as having the 'kangaroo' issue.

The burning question is - did those rear discs and pads really need replacing? No information of miles covered - but a three year old vehicle (1st MOT?) - I'm finding that a little difficult to swallow. Given the vehicle had passed a pre-test and had a service, I'd be asking for a second opinion.

Hello Wilson, the easiest (and by far the cheapest) way is to transfer the immobiliser chip from your old key to the replacement - if you do a search on here you should be able to find how its done.

I prefer the aftermarket, metal valve caps as they usually have an internal O-ring seal fitted - but you need to watch out for them seizing onto the stems.

In that case, it is possible that the fitting socket (If the fittings are threaded into the bodywork) may be the reverse to the external screw/bolt attachments for the dog guard - so, LH thread on near side, may be RH thread - I hope that's not getting too confusing. This might have been done to prevent them from unscrewing when the dog guard is attached / removed. Another thought occurs - the possibility that the fittings are clench nuts - but that would make them non-removeable unless they are destroyed.

Hello Heppie, I'd guess that is a error that should have been corrected in the PDI.

Hello Weti, welcome to the forum. Try threading-in a longish hex bolt with a locking-nut threaded on it - once the bolt is threaded in, run the nut down onto the insert fitting, then use the bolt to unscrew the fastener. NB, the fastener itself might be left-hand threaded, in which case - lefty-tighty, righty-loosey.