Warrior193

Did not quote any price for coolant change. Agree, have not seen coolant change interval on any VAG site yet, but have used online research. Contrary to some information out there, coolant is not 'for life' - it is not just the anti-freeze levels that can drop, there are anti-corrosion agents that deplete over time. Protection against corrosion in engine blocks is critical - especially in alloys.

Another point to check - does your coolant expansion tank have 'Mit Silicat' printed anywhere on it? If so, definitely replace it with one that does not have the silicate 'teabag' in it - this is an easy (and cheap) DIY job that will not require complete drain of the coolant. Specify G12 evo to be used when the coolant is changed.

Hello, welcome to the forum. IIRC, coolant change interval is around 5 years - at least that's what I currently stick to. I'll take a look at current recommendations for you. Update - It appears to be recommended at 3 to 5 years - yours is well overdue. NB. the EA211 coolant system is particularly prone to airlocks when draining and refilling the cooling system, it is recommended to use vacuum filling method or similar.

Doesn't brake bleed require VCDS or similar to operate ABS module while performing it?

Another suggestion might be to check the oil cooler matrix is clear of debris - especially considering there does not appear to be a problem with coolant temperatures while towing.

Further research suggests that my original answer regarding OCU backup battery is AI generated and incorrect. Still believe that failing OCU battery (if true) is not contributing to your GPS location error.

According to an online search, VAG OCU does not have a battery - either incorporated or separate - it uses vehicle power supply! If this is true, I'd suggest changing to another Garage.

Is this under warranty - or is it chargeable to you? I'd certainly insist on only the GPS antenna being replaced initially.

When you say 'The fault only comes up when I'm stopped' do you mean when the vehicle is stationary (with engine idling) - or when the engine is shut down?

Is the fan rotor free to turn by hand - or does it feel stiff/seized?

Ah, right! - that will be a heatsink, the resistor will be beneath it

Unable to say what that is, where was it located?

There is a repair kit for the actuator arm for the Mk3 - it seems that there were sufficient failures to warrant making a repair kit. I had SWMBOs Fabia (2018 1.0TSI, CHZC) actuator arm replaced last year - symptoms were MIL & EPC lights on, engine occasionally going into limp mode on hard acceleration. No issues following actuator arm replacement.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Try searching for 'Sealing Cap, coolant tank'. I replaced mine together with the expansion tank - parts were OEM, not Skoda branded. The part (article) number for the cap was 111 023. This was for a MY16 (October 2015) Octavia 1.4TSI.

Try disconnecting the infotainment power for more than 10 mins - perhaps for more like 30. Assuming your system is Amundsen MIB2, I could supply a suitable SD card, but the map content is more than 5 years old.

That may well be the explanation for the ambient lighting not working for that door - although I wouldn't have thought it would affect the RH door - unless that was also damaged in the crash. When did you purchase this vehicle? The simplest way to progress this would probably be for the seller to accept the vehicle back with some compensation paid to you for the inconvenience caused by their fraudulent sale.

Not clear in your original post, but was the LH front door replaced - or just repaired?

Has the infotainment system displayed the 'Insert SD Card' message ever since you bought the vehicle - or is this more recent?

Hello, welcome to the forum. On system boot up, does the infotainment system switch from Nav. to another mode when physically switched?

Hello, welcome to the forum. It does rather sound as if some of your issues are likely to be the result of the crash and subsequent repair. Did the price you paid for this vehicle reflect the fact that it had been repaired after suffering significant damage? I don't know what consumer protection you have in Sweden, but I would investigate what your options are regarding rejection of this vehicle.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd suggest the first thing to do is to get the actual oil pressure tested - I'm not sure, but it may be possible to do this by inspecting Live Data (via. VCDS or OBD11) while the engine is running - otherwise it will need an external pressure gauge to be plumbed into an oil gallery.

NB. failing battery resulting in very low voltages CAN cause the alarm to trigger - this is a protection against the alarm being disabled by disconnecting the vehicles battery while the alarm is armed.

Your starter battery is almost certainly faulty, if, as you say it is only 1 year old and you have checked the battery terminals for tightness, I suggest having the battery tested to confirm condition and claiming for replacement on warranty.

At 11 volts, your battery is less than 10% SOC! This will probably be the cause of your random alarm activations. What is the alternator output when the engine is running?

Comment removed as previous post has answered.