Warrior193

Which is why I suggested that a MPI might be best choice.

When was it last serviced, has it ever been serviced?

Ask your friend when was the last time the oil level was checked.

When you say your pollen filter had been mounted 'upside down' which way was the directional arrow pointing?

Presumably your au pair disabled SS in the jam 😒 Suggest first checking coolant for combustion products, I'm a little concerned that the head or block may have suffered a crack from cold shock when coolant was added - I did that once after cooking my mini - even after allowing more than 30 mins from shut down.

It's not necessarily safe to assume that a garage mechanic knows what is required - especially where a particular vehicle may not be familiar to them. There are often specialist tools or procedures required to perform certain service functions, not all mechanics or garages have that knowledge.

It could be either, I don't know if there's an easy way to distinguish between the two failures - but probably better to replace the easiest first (master cylinder if fitted with concentric slave) It's quite possible that the Mk2 is not fitted with concentric slave cylinder.

Hello cobber, welcome to the forum, how's the weather down there? Does your stop/start (idle stop) not operate? Does the fan operate? Odd that the temperature gauge doesn't register overheating - was cold water added to engine while it was overheated?

TSI is far better suited to short runs than TDI, but they will benefit from regular longer trips. Perhaps a MPI would be better suited to you if very short runs are almost sole use - but engine wear is greatest in the first 5 to 10 miles of any trip, regardless of fuel type. The main issue with TDI short runs is DPF not being regenerated sufficiently.

I rather suspect state of OCU battery does not affect GPS - and it also may not affect SOS capability in normal conditions, it is a backup to enable coms if the vehicle loses 12 volt power, for instance, in a collision. There's a good chance that the Dealer suggesting OCU battery replacement wants to fire the parts cannon.

I too do PH tests on my coolant, level was borderline high when I tested it in December - total coolant change (G13) was last done 5 years ago. Second change last month.

Did not quote any price for coolant change. Agree, have not seen coolant change interval on any VAG site yet, but have used online research. Contrary to some information out there, coolant is not 'for life' - it is not just the anti-freeze levels that can drop, there are anti-corrosion agents that deplete over time. Protection against corrosion in engine blocks is critical - especially in alloys.

Another point to check - does your coolant expansion tank have 'Mit Silicat' printed anywhere on it? If so, definitely replace it with one that does not have the silicate 'teabag' in it - this is an easy (and cheap) DIY job that will not require complete drain of the coolant. Specify G12 evo to be used when the coolant is changed.

Hello, welcome to the forum. IIRC, coolant change interval is around 5 years - at least that's what I currently stick to. I'll take a look at current recommendations for you. Update - It appears to be recommended at 3 to 5 years - yours is well overdue. NB. the EA211 coolant system is particularly prone to airlocks when draining and refilling the cooling system, it is recommended to use vacuum filling method or similar.

Doesn't brake bleed require VCDS or similar to operate ABS module while performing it?

Another suggestion might be to check the oil cooler matrix is clear of debris - especially considering there does not appear to be a problem with coolant temperatures while towing.

Further research suggests that my original answer regarding OCU backup battery is AI generated and incorrect. Still believe that failing OCU battery (if true) is not contributing to your GPS location error.

According to an online search, VAG OCU does not have a battery - either incorporated or separate - it uses vehicle power supply! If this is true, I'd suggest changing to another Garage.

Is this under warranty - or is it chargeable to you? I'd certainly insist on only the GPS antenna being replaced initially.

When you say 'The fault only comes up when I'm stopped' do you mean when the vehicle is stationary (with engine idling) - or when the engine is shut down?

Is the fan rotor free to turn by hand - or does it feel stiff/seized?

Ah, right! - that will be a heatsink, the resistor will be beneath it

Unable to say what that is, where was it located?

There is a repair kit for the actuator arm for the Mk3 - it seems that there were sufficient failures to warrant making a repair kit. I had SWMBOs Fabia (2018 1.0TSI, CHZC) actuator arm replaced last year - symptoms were MIL & EPC lights on, engine occasionally going into limp mode on hard acceleration. No issues following actuator arm replacement.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Try searching for 'Sealing Cap, coolant tank'. I replaced mine together with the expansion tank - parts were OEM, not Skoda branded. The part (article) number for the cap was 111 023. This was for a MY16 (October 2015) Octavia 1.4TSI.