Warrior193

Try checking the battery voltage while the engine is being cranked-over - should not fall lower than 10 to 10.5 volts.

Time will tell with any PPF issues, but they use a very different regen process compared to a DPF.

Sound like Rex's rent a wreck! 🤣

Toyota Landcruiser? 😄

^^^ agree, DVSA were totally uninterested when I reported the not uncommon fault of the TSI fuel rail bolts letting go and dumping considerable quantities of fuel onto the engine! Quote "Consider it to be No Fire Hazard"!

Check the part numbers, but I suspect that the level sensors for either light system will be identical - as they are merely sending an adjustment to the lighting system for level according to vehicle loading.

The sensor you need to look at is the one attached to the rear suspension. There are a fair number of reports on the forum where the front or rear connecting arm has broken or detached from the sensor.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I cannot see what country you are in - but in the UK it is usual to have one reversing light on the nearside, and one rear fog-light on the offside.

I notice that the vacuum line does not appear to be connected to the distributor. It's been a very long time indeed since I've played around with mechanical timing, but I do recall that the indications were never rock steady - it always helps if the timing marks are wiped clean, then wiped over with white chalk.

You need to check that the distributor swash plate is completely free to move, all springs inside dissy are in place and in good condition, no excess movement in dissy shaft and drive pinion and check for vacuum leaks.

Really not necessary to go to that extent and leave so long before checking oil - stop engine, leave for approx. 1-2 mins, pull stick and wipe, dip to check level. Use steps 3 and 4 if doing cold engine check.

When you say 'jumping' are you talking about sudden changes in timing without any change in engine speed - or do you mean the timing advances when engine speed is increased? The second case is normal - the ignition timing should advance using the centrifugal flyweights mounted on the distributor shaft when revs increase, there is also control by engine vacuum.

From the static settings, it just remains to adjust ignition timing and dwell angle to correct dynamic setting using a timing strobe.

Given your test figures, very likely that your battery is still serviceable.

Have you tested the battery voltage while the engine is being cranked? - this is a reasonable, ad hoc, load test for condition.

^^^ this is likely the answer - to confirm No 1 cylinder is on Compression stroke, turn engine over until No 1 piston is rising towards TDC with both inlet and exhaust valves closed.

^^^ certainly agree with this as an initial check - far too late, after running engine up to full temperature, to discover no, or very low, oil in engine!

PS, correct oil is not dependent on vehicle model, as same engine can be fitted in different models - use engine code for correct oil spec.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Check the first 3 or 4 characters of the engine number on your V5 document - this is the correct engine code (probably DTS-)

Get one with the proper wiring kit - not one just using a bypass relay.

Some confusion may arise from the oil pump drive being, apparently, a wet belt on some engines - but the cambelt is dry.

I partially agree, but this forum has many examples where even Brand Main Dealers strongly resist or even refuse what appear to be valid warranty claims.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Unfortunately, there are plenty of people out there who will - and not just 'private' sellers!

Probably should be covered by the warranty - but entirely depends on what is covered and what is not, especially in the small print. I'd suggest a thorough read-through of your warranty.

I haven't noticed this on either of our Mk3s (Octavia and Fabia) but I'd take a guess that it's normal - the steering assistance is electric, so the rack very likely requires to move slightly before the assistance starts to operate.