Warrior193

I think a 2011 2.0TSI VRS will be a EA888 engine, which has a timing chain. @fy1 your engine code can be found as a 4-letter prefix to the engine number on the V5 document.

I'm certain that it is a legal requirement in UK for the purchaser to be supplied a copy of any contract, what was the reason given by dealer for you not being supplied with one?

Internal condensation on windows is unavoidable and is caused by high humidity and temperature drop overnight. Packs of desiccant will help to reduce, but not completely eliminate problem.

Your new dealer might not be totally unbiased - and might be on shaky ground regarding the deposit, really depends on contract terms. Probably correct on the £1500 penalty fee though. What does the contract state?

You really become just a passenger when something like that happens!

The belt tensioner does not have a drive component, so would not require 'ribs' (act. multiple V) to maximise drive contact. I am sure my Octavia 3 (with AC) aux. belt is flat-sided on the outside.

That belt is definitely fitted incorrectly - as another poster has said, the ribs must be facing against the pulley surface.

It sounds as if your lubricating oil level sensor may be a little oversensitive - suggest doing regular checks using the stick for the future.

The V grooves mainly serve to increase the surface area (therefore grip) of the belt. That belt does appear to be fitted incorrectly, but still waiting on clearer image.

Not clear with that image you post, but are the belt ribs facing the outside as it passes over the alternator pulley? Who replaced the belt tensioner? It looks like either the belt is inside out - or it has been fitted with a twist.

... and yet the warning indicator shown in the posted image is NOT the GPF one.

Sounds pretty unreasonable if it was a stock vehicle. Looks like a careful recheck of the sales contract needed. Could also come under the category of unfair contract conditions.

GPF regens are unlikely to cause similar issues to DPF as they are done on closed throttle overrun.

Unless your front pads have been changed previously and the rears were not, I'd check why they are so worn - vast majority of braking effort would normally be taken on the fronts.

Pretty sure the TPMS became mandatory before 2015, therefore your vehicle should have it. If all tyre pressures were reasonably equal and within approx. 0.25 - 0.5 bar of each other, indirect TPMS may not flag a warning. Have you checked the vehicle menus for tyre pressure reset?

Simple law of physics - revving engine to limiter unnecessarily in neutral, then expecting all those high speed reciprocating parts to slow down instantly, is unrealistic (and completely pointless)

Unless the battery was fully charged before the test, <80% capacity can be considered completely normal given the way the alternator smart charge controller operates - particularly if the vehicle often does short trips. A resting figure of 12.2 volts on a EFB equates to approx. 65% charged - again, normal, taking into account the smart charging system. Unlikely that one cell is failing at that reported resting voltage. Suggest a full charge, then a good load test to check battery condition.

Warranty on battery can depend on reason for failure - I had battery and alternator replaced under warranty in the first year of ownership of my Octavia - but yours, if it is failing, would probably be considered normal wear and tear. There was also an issue with a faulty batch of Moll EFBs a few years back, but I think that was before 2020. Have you tried running down the battery voltage a little, then rechecking the alternator voltage output at the battery terminals?

Is this a hybrid or straight ICE? I have seen other postings where the Mk IV hybrid 12volt battery was not being charged correctly. If vehicle is straight ICE, the smart alternator control can often show a lower charging voltage - relying on energy recuperation to fully charge. A search on the forum may give you some information on charging rate. A load test will confirm battery condition.

Hello Mike, welcome to the forum. Are you aware that there is a limiter that restricts RPM to a lower level while vehicle is in neutral gear?

Hello Triff, I can suggest taking a look at the Autophix OM126P.

More complicated, yes - but there are obvious benefits in quicker engine warmup - reduced wear and emissions and increased economy.

Can you post your engine code ID letters? This is the 3 or 4 letter code in front of the engine number and can be found on your V5 document. I assume your engine is EA888 G3, is that correct?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Any interest in the Brand is good enough - the only ones qualifying for the 'up against the wall' treatment are those who get abusive 😁

That coolant leak sounds like being from the Charge Cooler unit.