Alasdair1

Not sure but think it comes down from centre of dash under front passenger carpet near tunnel and through firewall. Not sure exactly where it exits. Have read they are prone to gumming up at draining end. Check the underlay of passenger side front carpet for moisture. Alasdair

Could be the aircon drain hose is blocked or failed. If you put air con on max for 20 mins there should be drips under car from drain hose. If its dry then its either blocked or become unattached. The underlay of the carpet acts like a big sponge so you need a lot of water to get carpets soaking. Alasdair

You may have put fuses back in correct place and the steering should come back after a drive. Quite normal after battery change you get a few warning symbols Turn full left and full right and take it for a short drive and steering light should go off. When you checked the wipers was the bonnet open. Skoda in there wisdom disable wipers if bonnet is open for some reason. Caught me out before. Alasdair

My sons ecu was loose due to the plastic bracket being broken. If you feed a couple of long cable ties behind the bracket and then secure the ECU in place it works perfectly. You may have to join the cable ties to get the length required. Alasdair

Wires in door are fairly easy to repair but a lot of folk just join at the break. I normally splice in a new section of wire a good bit before and after the break as you get more flexability as solder tends to make section of wire rigid plus chances are the section of wire thats broken has been flexed over time and become weak. If the windows are temperamental and door lock doesnt operate it may be just a wiring issue in the drivers pillar/door. I would check wiring and repair first and see if things go back to normal.

Might be as hopefully as simple as one of the pipes that feeds rack. Think the subframe has to be dropped etc to replace rack so not a simple job plus will probably need front end alignment once subframe is refitted etc. Have seen additive to help stop leaks but no idea if works and for how long. Alasdair

From memory on my folks old mk1 estate there were captive nuts under rubber trim. Problem may be getting second hand rails. Couple breaking on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226402866561?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+I%7CModel%3AFabia&_skw=skoda+fabia+mk1+estate+breaking&itmmeta=01M22N4AYK6BF9TZ5QQFGWVBS2&hash=item34b6a99581:g:m5AAAOSwoktnDzfF&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDjEtQFMEhSDtgDDQhh%2FR%2BKn7twjgzNQl35XX%2FAXNZZTOBwJNrhjpi%2FFI%2F1%2BpIz%2FOEUM6fRBj2OKLAzlhNOQxqJD4GhH2VnbHuz78IRFlO8Q1rmjug7JPg%2BhHFtq15ym89Yoiku%2Bzd5PnWazUpbhyK7Wqu6KbA3w4QZFw289RhSfxp2iUAD7K8nQw8N6sWvDKnBfneRr7XlMH%2B4%2Fu0yQQBviHqQGccz8Yry0vx3bY%2FsKIsPbEV7RojU0IxMb%2FZ4XQ%2FmOm4dawS3iA0XKsNqKOF2%2FBbCfPO%2Buh0SjNJubdNjItE1J4Ds2tPsIEYH%2FdPbNuY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8SvkdWQaA https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256686877910?_skw=skoda+fabia+mk1+estate+breaking&itmmeta=01M22N4AYKV8DN80FXPK91VZ56&hash=item3bc3baecd6:g:CgAAAOSwT5dnGQTv&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDgMrnePzINnqFd0NCA2u2Ojg9jTP5EjLUrr525QMq8azqsZKU16zpOQobx2rM1%2FXtSGm%2BS9FUDtF2SaAMF34WdlZb5VBfoL1xVgrvxMcorEWj9Rr%2BU7fSOx7wUkRbTUUNTwhO7j5ErCh%2FTzmB%2F9Zl2JlfSqgf77T%2FTFaHkS7NkN%2FjmD2e0pelo2KiN2eyS2OjrpkyFd%2BNxdDraS5UxYJKqZfKSEx0x94L3Pkx2Be0ThKVdZhskE%2BVOU8rcpw1X1YbmR7WsSa9v50EToXGxsfHbb8kN%2FyT1ZPlOJH3Ud%2FX1qs%2BmaNIf2opXTTUpemFw%2BUY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8avkdWQaA Alasdair

195/55R15 85V LAUFENN S FIT EQ+ are a sub company of Hankook so should be decent tyres. My sons mk1 fabia is basic but also so far fairly trouble free and relatively cheap to fix. These days the newer the car the more expensive it becomes to repair so I would look after the one you have. Rust is the killer everything else can be sorted Alasdair

Could be engine is burning oil and its gearbox oil as warrior said. The only other thing (long shot I know) would be brake/clutch fluid. Maybe pop it into a friendly garage and get them to put it on their lift to see if they can track down where its coming from. Oil has a habit of appearing a good bit away from where it started.

I would fix the rust ASAP before it gets worse even if its a touch up kit. Sons MK1 has a few dents but its an old car and as long as theres no rust he lives with it. If you mean the bite point on clutch being high it may mean its getting worn but if its not slipping I wouldnt bother until it starts. If you mean the height of pedal its probably normal as its hydraulic clutch. The vibrations may be wheels out of balance but as there new tyres I assume they were balanced so it could be slightly worn bushes. Sons swing arm bushes are past it and he gets a bit of vibration/wobble at higher speeds. I would get wheels checked for balance just in case a weight has come off. Check the wiring at the door pillar for breaks which may explain the window problem. Alasdair

Fairly straight forward as long as there not rusted in. On the octavia theres one allen key/torx screw(cant remember off hand) that holds them in place (make sure you clean it out so you get a good depth of grip) from memory you can just get to them behind splash guard. Soak them for a few days in penetrating oil and gently wiggle them while pulling upwards. Check condition of wiring etc before hand just in case its wiring/connector related. Alasdair

Check timing cover and also PCV. Cant think of anything else if the engine block has no signs of leaks. Have a look at the oil pressure switch in case its leaking and oil is traveling down wiring and missing engine block Alasdair

I agree could also be a build up of dirt/rust on sensor tip. Doubt its wiring as both seem to be giving trouble. I would change them. I used Febi ones on my octavia and they werent expensive. Had to change them due to replacing wheel bearigs and broke senors trying to remove them No problems so far. Think from memory they were around £12 each Alasdair

Could be a voltage drop. Whats the condition of battery and also is alternator charging ok. On the other hand my octavia had random warning lights appear some bright and others dim. Cluster needed connector cleaned and reseated. Were there actual fault codes stored to match warnings? Alasdair

Glad its superficial damage and alls well. You were lucky. Could have been a lot worse. Alasdair

If all the wheel bearings are smooth and no play (as said they can still make noise but feel ok) It might be the centre bearing in rear propshaft thats failing or propshaft coupling. Had one go on an old volvo 940 and made a droning sound varying with speed. Alasdair

It must be coming from somewhere. Check the join between engine and gearbox in case its the crank seal that gone and it getting blown backwards Alasdair

Its not bad if you have another car on the road so if it goes wrong you have time to fix it. At moment only got one on road so repairs are only if really required. Havent had time to fix the Seat which needs the least amount doing. New bearing and probably EGR cooler thats needing cleaned which is a pain to get to. Can use my sons Fabia if it goes pear shaped. Hope to get at some of the cars I have over winter once I make doors on the big shed I use for repairs. Hope swapping valve cures problem. Alasdair

My problem is rust as I am in Inverness (high salt area) If it wasnt for that I reckon I could keep cars going indefinilty. No stranger to second hand parts off ebay etc plus as I do all my own mechanics no garage bills. None of my cars are pretty but they start and stop and generally fixable. I buy cheap older cars and keep them going until they need welded/die. Have a cheap scanner for fault codes and so far been ok but reckon I will need to invest in OBDeleven or VCDS at some point as there getting more complicated the newer they get. One of these days going to get a 4 post ramp. Reckon its a good investment and if I can keep on top of rust would pay for itself fairly quickly plus have Landrover 110, Toyota lucida, Mk1 mx5, Seat altea (all project vehicles) Daughter has Peugeot 205gti,Volvo v40,Landrover 110, Classic mini and a bedford rascal campervan and last of all sons mk1 fabia. so I reckon it would get used. Alasdair

I am not a mechanic either but been working on my cars and others for 40 years plus, although I do miss the simplicity of older cars. These days I am struggling but learning slowly. I keep my cars till they die and then struggle cause the next one is normally 10 years more modern. My old friend who had a proper old school garage used to say nuts and bolts no problem at all but computers and electronics another ball game. Hope you get it sorted Alasdair

That I think is good news. I read that its should be 48bar running which is near as damn it 700psi so looking good and HPFP and n276 valve is doing what it should. Shouldn't take a garage too long to swap over valves as they can lift car for access. Hope it solves the problem. Alasdair

Something to do with it being a sealed system and due to heat it increases pressure when off. The N276 valve I think reduces it to normal for starting. If its sticking you should notice a pressure spike in live data. As said bit above my experience but it seems to make sense. Hope its not as they arent as far as I know replaceable so new HPFP Alasdair

Think 700 and rising to 1200 is perfectly normal so injectors are sealed and pump is doing its job. I have just read it could be a pressure spike due to a sticking n276 valve when restarting car. According to google to check let it build up to 1200 and start car while reading fuel pressure data at same time. If it spikes really high 2000psi or above it may well be a sticking valve and dumping too much fuel into engine until the pressure levels out. Its a bit beyond my experience but worth a look. Alasdair

Might be worth checking actual coolant temp against what the coolant sensor is sending to ECU. Think VAG group use dual circuit sensor so one does dash and the other sends info to ECU. If its failing when hot then it could be sending wrong info even though the dash says 90 degrees. There not that expensive so might be worth changing to see if it makes any difference. Got to be easier than accessing the DV+ Alasdair

Ones on my old Skoda octavia were pretty good they looked like a spline fitting but the one that snapped was on a SEAT which had more of a pattern that locked in place which as I found not nearly as strong. Alasdair