Alasdair1

My sons fabia has a choice of two different ones. Best option is to remove yours and match up with whats available. There may even be a part number on the old one for cross ref. Alasdair

Have a look at GT radial FE2. Have summer on my Octavia and there excellent. (second set) plus also on my old Seat. Son has all season on his fabia and they are excellent as well. Good in the wet and loads of grip. They are around £75-00 per tyre fitted and if you order online my tyre service gives you discount. £15 off two and £40 of four. Alasdair

It could also be the antenna thats failing. Not DAB radio but my octavia stopped receiving certain stations. It was the amplifier in roof ariel that had water ingress. Alasdair

I got away with just lubricating the actuator as it was sticking at a certain point and causing overboost. I hope yours is the same and its not the turbo fins that are stuck. I had to manually operate actuator for a good while before it became free again. Hope the new sensor curres the problem. Alasdair

01618 can mean wiring to (intake manifold pressure sensor)MAP sensor is faulty or sensor itself. If its the problem it would explain rough idle plus black smoke and smell of diesel. I would check wiring back to ECU and change MAP sensor. Not sure cause of 01166 but may be related. My old ocatvia used to randomly go into limp mode at higher revs. I suspected turbo veins but in my case the actuator was sticking. I sprayed it with penetrating oil and manually operated it until it was smooth and free. Problem was cured. Alasdair

Thats not good coming from a garage. Reckon they forgot to order two new ones and thought they would get away with it. Hope it hasn't done any damage to bearings. I would have a word with them and if the bearings start to rumble get them to replace them. At least you noticed before it became catastrophic. Alasdair

Could be as simple as a crank sensor. Get it scanned for fault codes as I am sure there will be some stored if the EML light was on and post them here. Alasdair

I know the nuts your talking about exactly. When they tighten up they click but if you loosen them the tabs break off. My sons had been reused as well. Noticed when I did the front bearings. At least someone had used thread lock on them but I replaced them as the bearing kits had new ones. Reckon they will take drive shaft baack no problem as its still sealed. Glad it was a simple fix. Alasdair

Not sure what turbo is fitted but personally I would leave it if its working properly. You could source a second hand one and rebuild it as a quick replacement if yours fails. I did rebuild one from a volvo 940 years ago as the fins had gone and it was burning oil but found the simplest option was to buy a new core etc Alasdair

Cant be as bad as my mates Jag XK. His failed (Supposedly known fault but jag not admitting it) He had to go to Jaguar as they were the only ones who had one. Water ingress into electronic control. £4500 later!! Suposedly they have to dismantle the entire front end and then recode the rack to the car. Wont be buying a Jaguar. Good luck and keep us posted

See if you can find out from mechanic what the other code is plus it might be worth checking wiring continuity on the sensors you replaced again. Alasdair

First I would take starter off and inspect. Had one on an old van years ago that didnt quite disengage and sounded rattly and eventually burnt out. Lucky I didnt do any damage to flywheel gear but melted the starter. There are conversion kits I think last time I looked and from memory Valeo do a solid flywheel etc.. If its not the starter motor then I reckon its gearbox out to check unless you can get a inspection camera through starter hole to have a look. What mileage is on the car and has clutch ever been changed? Alasdair

It may be that they had a fault/leak in the evap system and just removed it and blanked the pipe. Not sure if its actually needed. I believe its to do with emissions/fuel vapour etc. Non of my old cars had evap. Alasdair

It could be a one of due to above. I would wait and also get it scanned with VCDS which may pick up something more detailed. If one is starting to fail it may be that when you replace it and another does the same at some point. It also depends on the quote for the new injector? I can't see it being cheap so personally I would wait but make sure your covered via AA,RAC etc. Hopefully its a one of Alasdair

I agree get it scanned with vcds. P0326 could be a failing knock sensor. Alasdair

I agree with mounts etc. If there ok then might be a sticking release bearing or hopefully not a problem with DMF. What mileage has the car done and you say clutch failure. Is it a new clutch or just the slave cylinder that was replaced. Alasdair

I used to fit new horns sideways and downwards not forward as I reckon it helps to stop debri etc getting into them. Alasdair

Not sure but had the old tyres worn fairly evenly especially rear. My old Octy rear tyres had loads of wear on the inside due to rear suspension arm bushes worn and rear alignment was out. Sounded a bit like a drone/wheel bearing. Check the swing arms at rear that the springs sit in. There are concentric bolts for alignment but if the bushes fail the alignment can cause tyre wear/noise. It was the upper bushing on mine that had gone. Alasdair

If the bearings have no play and feel smooth it could be the CV joint thats wearing out. Had one that used to click/clunk at full lock. It in my case was outer one. Didnt seem to be any play but noise disappeared once I replaced it. Alasdair

Not sure on yours but there are pre and post cat lamda. If thats the correct one then unclip and remove. Alasdair

Not sure re sidelight but the black wheels look wicked and pretty mean and I reckon look miles better than the silver. If my car was black I would go with them. Alasdair

Not sure but perhaps a temp bolt would be a good idea. Personally I wouldnt as not sure if it would cause any further damage or put strain on other items plus if anything happened on road I reckon you would be liable for something and if your insurance found out I doubt they would be very happy. You might get away with threaded rod and a couple of nylocks. Alasdair

Probably cheapest option would be breakers/scrapyard. May be a part number on airbag or on reverse of plastic cover. One on ebay but not sure if your uk based or not. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315111292946?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=315111292946&targetid=2404040183267&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007345&poi=&campaignid=21697363421&mkgroupid=171407487490&rlsatarget=aud-1657461044788:pla-2404040183267&abcId=10027088&merchantid=113153458&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21697363421&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1fuR6MxZ_r0ugxgk_MN9yO7_&gclid=CjwKCAjw1dLDBhBoEiwAQNRiQc4kCt3bTDxSM7EOo7dvEky3chVItGZrQlGgopPOtgDgsx2xy2BldBoCAYYQAvD_BwE Alasdair

Pulled this from wheelfitment website Skoda octavia mk1 1997 - 2005 https://www.wheelfitment.eu/car/Skoda/Octavia%20(1997%20-%202005).html Wouldnt let me copy data sorry Alasdair

I think the best optioin would be to get it scanned with VCDS. Could be something simple but hopefully will have stored some codes to point you in the right direction. Check the obvious like loose battery terminals and the strip fuses in front of battery and loose connectors/wiring in general . Maybe a short when engine vibrations are high. Look very carefuly at the fuses as they can crack but arent noticeable. Alasdair