J.R.

£5.88 for the seal, some transmission fluid and labour, £3000 sounds about right!

You must have written that in invisible ink!

Not if you do intermediate oil changes and change the filter only on the scheduled ones.

Following recommendations on here I have been using Owatrol Rustol and it really is superb, you can use an acidic rust convertor first but the Owatrol seals the surface completely and stops any further rusting as long as its not perforated. I have been using it on 3 mobile site trailers which have spent their lives outside on fields & muddy building sites, the oldest is a 1975 one the ones done with a rust convertor & then grey stonechip paint are showing rust stains, nothing on the Owatrol ones even in the areas where it has not been overpainted, if you want to stop the rusting but keep the patina or just not be bothered with overpainting then Owatrol is the stuff to use!

My experience exactly, I had a non branded Pela type and it was always playing up, moving around when I was using it, scratching the bonnet slam panel, like a cheap garden sprayer I was forever pulling the pump apart, eventually I found that the screwed neck for the pump fitting had fractured just underneath where the seal sat so it would not hold a vacuum. The vertical "track pump" type Sealey one is superb and its surprising how many uses you can find for it once its in your armoury.

Thanks for the confirmation, you have a particularly honest trip computer! Mind you even when its spot on it would give an untrue reading the same as every car because of the speedo calibration positive tolerance bias = always over-read and never under-read.

For some of these vehicles it sounds like the checklist is going to be very long, you might want to buy one of those pilots briefcases to carry it in

I prefer your outburst!!!!

This outburst is not addressed at you but at the car manufacturers and the modern customers who covet their offerings. Its a bloody car for dogs sake, a means of transport and not a teenagers game console!

When you fill up and do the calculation you can add the wildly optimistic mpg figures to your list of complaints.

It does and also says to leave them closed for 24 hours, the explanation given is that you help the window close firmly (preventing the volt drop that would reverse it) and the clip will deform the seal over the 24 hours that it is effectively clamped up & thereafter it should work correctly.

Its what the video said and showed how to do.

She does have an NVQ though and Dishonest John speaks very highly of her!

You will have disturbed the wiring for the side impact G sensor/accelerometer, if the battery was not disconnected or if the connection was not remade properly when the battery voltage restored it will have brought up a fault code and the airbag warning light.

Just to counteract your misinformation, at no time did I say the vehicle would not be written off, I even answered your questions about how much (as a percentage) the insurers would pay out as an uneconomic repair write off. I said that it would be sold by salvage auction, in fact it has passed through 2 auctions, the first buyer flipping it to the second, I said that it would be an easy repair and it would be seen back on the road which it has. To quote myself: "I guarantee you will see that back on the road, a nice project for someone." But then "I dont have no clue about much" although I do recognise a double negative when I see one.

Module is located on top of the transmission tunnel behind the console. A fault code will be generated, no point in changing the module with hope, even if it had failed the new one would require coding to operate and the fault code will need erasing. Wire repairs behind the glovebox by any chance?

The gift that keeps on giving, good to see Skoda working so hard to regain the reputation that they once had All the old jokes will be back before you know it.

https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/lose-with-dignity-celebrate-with-grace-part-i/

The seals can be replaced in situ. I wish I could recall @sepulchrave's definition of a mechanic that he recently wrote. I found it! I hope he does not mind me reproducing it. Garages are mongs, they just change whatever the reader says is wrong, they play parts bingo with your money, next it would be the throttle body, then the pedal assembly, then the ECU. I know how their primitive reptile brains work, they don't do the job to fix your car, they do it to get paid, fixing your car is incidental.

Twilight zone.

That info is good to know for the future, it will be there to reduce assembly time (lock already fitted to slam panel) and have the secondary advantage of making accident repairs or removing the front crashbar to change radiator/AC condensor/intercooler easier.

Are you saying that you pulled on the end of the cable attached to the bonnet release after the connector had come apart? That is to say the connector joins a short and long length of cable? I have seen said connector if that is what it is, not knowing it was a joiner I had to unbolt the bonnet catch to remove the slam panel.

I will second that, I followed the same path taking the MK1 up to 325000 miles over 13 years from 3 years old, then a MK2, same observations as yours, it was the slight dissapointment with the MK2 compared to MK1 combined with boredom that made me buy a written off Yeti as a project, it was a great decision as a project but despite behaving currently it will be less reliable than its predecessors but nothing could measure up to them.

Thanks, usefull info, a correction though, the link is for todays RFL prices for and not those that were in effect in 2003. My vehicle then was a 98 and it would not cost as much today as I had thought.

Its a very usefull function when you understand what it does, my Yeti has a really annoying feature of telling me when to change up and down gears, I hate it, sometimes when I am cruising at 50kph in town it will tell me to change down to 5th from 6th, the engine is not labouring, I'm not accelerating, it feels correct, as AG Falco says usually (within limits) the higher the gear the better the economy but in these instances keeping a steady throttle opening (essential) I have found that the instantaneous mpg does indeed increase by dropping a cog. Another thing that you can see is that no fuel is used on the over-run until the revs drop to idle speed whereupon it pours on the coals to prevent stalling, if you start playing obsessive to get the maximum possible MPG on empty roads you can just let the car bimble along on the flat at 50kph with no throttle in top gear, the display will jump from - - - mpg to 20-30 when it pours on the coals then cruises at 150mpg before cutting the fuel again to display - - - mpg. All figures for illustration only.