MATT0693

You'd be best phoning the dealer and asking them. Swapping the engine might be X-hours but they are likely to spend another few hours swapping ancillaries & making sure it works as it should (or I would hope so). If you are paying the bill, it is worth negotiating a discounted rate or even a fixed fee if you can.

It is a well documented issue, a lot of people have removed the bag, or replaced the tank (in the case of a dual wall one) for the non silica one. Some people are lucky and can get away with flushing the system a few times, other have had to change the matrix and radiator etc. It can certainly be done cheaper £1350, the parts are relatively cheap on the aftermarket it just a time consuming job.

It depends what you want to do, there are plenty of free & paid mobile apps available that will read codes and show live data across all platforms via an inexpensive Bluetooth OBD plug. There are some simple handheld devices available from eBay/Amazon for £20> that will do the same job if you prefer a actual device. If you want to do coding you will be looking at a higher price point.

Welcome!

My partners car dropped a couple of MPG (around 5%) when the switch to E10 happened, but it is hard to attribute those changes with so many other variables. I filled it with E5 last week as there was no E10, the only difference she has noticed so far is that the occasional lumpy idle hasn't happened (yet).

I have a 2016 diesel DSG, absolutely no problems with it, just general maintenance costs. There are common problems such as water pump failure and reports of oil consumption. The pumps are changed with the belt at set intervals and the revised parts don't seem to have a high fail rate from what I have read. I service my car every 5-6k and I've never had to top it up in between, it may just drop from full on the dipstick by a mm or two. It is worth checking the DPF health prior to purchase if possible, if the car has only ever done short trips then the DPF life is going to be shorter than one that's been sat on the motorway. In terms of fuel economy, I am current getting 47 mpg long term with mixed driving, I did see 60mpg once on a long trip driving very sensible. I would see if you can test drive both, see what you think and weigh up the running costs.

The charge is normal, the amount seems a little high as per Roottoot's post. What sort of distance are you getting between regens? I am currently getting around 170-200 miles between regens, I put that down to the colder weather and more short trips than normal as nothing appears out of the ordinary on VCDS. I also use the VAG DPF app, it gives some insight into what is happening and the health of the DPF on the move. The app is around £5 and a Bluetooth OBD can be purchased for around £10, which can then be used on other free apps to check data and fault codes.

I change the oil & filter on my cars every 5-6k, and replace the fuel filter, pollen filter & air filter annually. The cost for 2x oil & filter changes and a complete filter change is £110 plus an hour of my time, much less than a single main dealer oil/filter service. If you drive the car hard, or it spends a lot of time in high-load conditions, it is worth doing it more often, otherwise the normal service schedule is fine.

Oil consumption is going to be a big contributor to the DPF issues (presuming it is burning it and not leaking it), It would be beneficial to fix that otherwise the DPF cleaning is going to be short lived. A genuine DPF is around £1800-£2000 on these from memory, so not a cheap fix unfortunately.

The oil ash residue will be your issue, as above you either need to replace the DPF or look to have it cleaned, although it doesn't mean it will be successful. My advice would be do not leave it, the DPF regen process puts a lot of stress on other components and you will just end up with an even bigger bill.

It going to vary between companies, local to me it is around £40-60 for a standard head.

There are a lot of threads on other forums about the pumps failing, if you google 1.8t oil pump failure you'll get plenty of information from Audi-sport and Ukmkivs.net. I don't think they are common, but it isn't unheard of for them to fail. The best thing to do is drop the sump and give it a good clean and replace the pick up pipe as they can block up. I have a 1.8T Golf and the previous owner had used loads of silicone on the sump gasket, it started to clog the pick-up pipe, I also fitted sump baffles at the same time. https://badger5.co.uk/engine-parts/oil-pump-pickup-pipe-06a An OEM pump can be had for £80, genuine are £200+. If you don't already have one, a oil pressure and temp gauge are a good investment to monitor everything.

In my experience, when the DPF is that blocked it needs to be removed and cleaned. VTECH DPF cleaner has worked well for me in the past. https://garagewire.co.uk/news/game-changing-dpf-cleaner-is-a-profitable-solution/ My DPF does a regen once it reaches around 22g, I think the threshold for the DPF light is 30g, anything north of 45g is replace the filter (based on EA228 Diesel), so worth checking the specs for yours.

I have the same issue, I suspect it to be the top mount as everything else is okay visually and I can't find any excessive play in the joints. I've purchased the top mounts, bearings, drop links and shock absorbers (just in case) and will do both sides. In my opinion, it isn't worth buying cheap brands and only changing one side with something like suspension. There is an article online about Octavia top mounts, so could be part of what you are experiencing.

The car will do a passive regen when the exhaust temperatures are 400'c - 500'c, this won't put a light on the dash. If the car isn't able to this, the engine management system will step in and inject fuel to increase the DPF temps to burn off the soot without putting a light on the dash. When the DPF can't complete the cycle and it gets too full, it will put the DPF light on so you can perform a 'regeneration drive cycle' until it clears. My car completes one every 300-400 miles usually, if I do a lot of short trips and have supermarket fuel, it can be as little as 170miles. If you have ever got out of the car and heard the cooling fans running still, it could be because you have interrupted the regen cycle. It is worth downloading VAG DPF, it is less than £5 on the app store and connects to a Bluetooth OBD adapter, it gives you live DPF data and shows you how much life it has before replacement. You can then also use the adaptor to read fault codes etc through either free or paid apps.

I think the genuine number is 036906262T for the BKY, you can get cheap ones on eBay for £50 or spend upwards of £100 for premium/genuine.

Fuel economy is a tricky one, so many variables. The cold weather is a huge part of it, I currently get 40-45mpg with a mix of town/motorway driving, whereas in summer I can get 50-55mpg doing the same. (Mk3 2016) If you are noticing changes in the temperature on the motorway it could well be a thermostat or faulty coolant temp sensor, it will also affect the warm-up period, so well worth changing Have you noticed an increase in DPF regens? (presuming the car has one) I would get the car plugged into a diagnostic machine, just to check for codes and obtain some live data readings, there are members on here who could help with that depending on location.

Great to see the level of work going into this! I do love the old 1.8T's.... reminds me that I need to crack on building mine that i've been putting off for years.

This is likely to be your issue, you need to identify the leak and repair/replace the exhaust section. If you still have issues then you need to investigate further, sometimes a fresh service and premium fuel can be enough to get it within range.

I was gifted a box of 72 Carplan tablets before, they didn't cause any issues (summer use), in the colder months it did freeze up and my headlight washers wouldn't retract into the bumper. Certainly worth checking what protection they offer and how cost effective they are. The ones I had required two tablets per litre and there was no movement for summer/winter use, so 36L of screenwash should have cost me £24.99 I currently use Drivetec screenwash with rain repellent. I pay roughly £27 for 25L of concentrate that can be mixed down to as little as 15% in the summer, I get around 100L from it over the months. The rain repellent is an added bonus, it seems to work reasonably well on the motorway etc.

Sound about right, belts are a 5 years or X Miles, which ever comes first. You won't need the pump doing though, they are on the opposite side of the engine.

Skoda is around £185 from memory. Providing you use spec approved oil and an OEM filter, you will have no warranty issues. I think there is an option on the oil, either 5W30 (VW504.00 VW507.00) or 5W40 (VW502.00 VW505.00) depending on your service interval. The filter is around £6, a decent brand of approved oil will set you back £30-40 and a sump plug is going to be a few quid.... £50/60 parts and £30 to your local garage to do the job. The only thing to consider is having your service information updated, a lot of the VAG service plans are online now so you may want to find a garage that can update it, unless of course, you are happy with an invoice.

I would now like to add, that I have had one fail on me and the support from OpendoorLED has been poor. I contacted them explaining the issue, asked them for advice on a remedy or if I could return it. They replied stating they would replace the order without the need to return them, fast forward a few weeks an no replacement unit, I have contacted them twice for an update without a reply. I think I will look to order the more expensive units after Christmas, hopefully they last more than 12months.

£395 supply and fit is decent for a specialist, especially if that is genuine parts. I changed my partners (same engine different model), I think the book time was quoted at 3hours from memory, it certainly didn't take long. I would say your labour cost alone will be £150-250 depending on the garages rate, most are £50-80ph. Then you have part cost and the what ever mark-up the garage adds, I paid £62.50 for an INA as it was more half the price of genuine.

The pump is separate on these, so just the belt kit will do. In theory they should all last the service interval period, I personally go for the OEM suppliers for peace of mind. I'm in the trade and have fitted Gates, INA, Dayco and Continental. I just prefer INA and Gates as the kits just tend to be more comprehensive. Brands are always personal preference, I've known some garages to refuse to fit or warranty their work on certain brands, hence the suggestion to check with the installer.