rum4mo

In case you didn’t know, these mirror assemblies are made up from a few individual parts that can be bought separately. From memory there is a plate/frame and the LED inductor lump/strip of clear plastic. I needed to buy the above parts and a cap when someone smashed one on my wife’s 2015 VW Polo. The old guy was driving a VX Corsa and his mirror also got wrecked and swung round and through his side window - that would have wakened up and caused him to move back across to his side of the road!

"typically", you just lift the front edge of the rear seat bases, and I seem to remember, pull it forwards slightly, then grab the rear of the base and fold it forward - that is the way it is done in a 2015 VW Polo anyway. Seat bases can easily get removed if that improves the space for carrying stuff - doing that doesn't allow the the seat back to drop any lower at the pivot though - obviously.

I my world, with these Lucas rear callipers, you do need to remove these 2 bolts to service the rear brakes, unless "servicing" is just spraying some brake cleaner in. I was going to suggest that the copper sealing washers on the banjo bolt look to be too thick, but seeing the difference in the same measurement side to side in the pictures, what I was considering to be thicker washers, just pales into insignificance. So far the worst thing that I have had when buying a re-manufactured rear Lucas calliper was what looked like a "garden shed" job of repairing a stripped bleed valve hole - I just handed that otherwise okay calliper back. Edit:- this makes me think that I should take a look at the one I fitted a couple of months ago, seeing as the fluid line was the bit I did last - I had filled up the calliper with fresh fluid before putting the fluid line back on - just to displace as much air as possible, as I just bleed it using a Mityvac hand pump after removing my sealed cap from the reservoir. Maybe it has a different size of piston, ie meant for another car, if so another reason to return it. I think that there were 34mm and 38mm versions of that model, and just maybe 41mm pistons. The pistons on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI were 38mm, I wasn't that trusting, I measured both piston sizes of the original calliper and the re-manufactured one. Plus I went over the new calliper with a digi calliper to check what I considered to be all relevant measurements.

I spotted some chunky bits of rust on the garage floor on Saturday when I opened the garage door to drive my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS with 49,000 miles, back in! It didn't take much guessing to consider that it was (finally) time to replace the clamps on the mid point exhaust joining piece - which I had bought almost 2 years ago as NOS VW Group part. So, yesterday, I picked off the broken/rusted through clamp and unbolted the almost broken/rusted through other clamp, and opened up the new clamps harvested from that new joining piece and fitted them over the old original stainless steel split joining part. All done BEFORE the exhaust had worked itself loose from the joining piece - result! I was a bit surprised that I had managed to remove the clamping bolt from the "just still intact" clamp, but the "special release juice" seemed to work well. Edit:- PlusGas!

I'd hope that if you have had a look at one side with the drum of, then you will know where to expect to find the wedge on the other side - if the one you have already got the drum off is closer to the rear of the car, the one on the other side will once again be closer to the rear of the car - obviously if I'm wrong and the one that you got the drum off was nearer the front of the car, then so will the wedge on the other side. I'm guessing that you have got the drum free from being gripped by rust on the hub? If you fight this too much without backing off the adjustment via the wedge, then you might just be tilting over a shoe or shoes - and that will just make things trickier to get that drum off.

At least if you fit the spare wheel down into the wheel well and secure with the correct bolt thing, and same for the tools kit, it will not be free to "come and get you" if you are unfortunate enough to be involved in an event where the car gets rolled over.

I’d think that your car has an electric steering rack, but that is just a guess as the Ibiza and Polo had changed to that by the time period covering this model of Fabia.

Tapping the alternator might be freeing up the small carbon brushes that are either sticking in their holders due to a build up of carbon dust, or the same issue and they have worn down so are now too short to be useful. I due to the huge cost difference, when the alternator on my older daughter’s 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 went badly faulty - stopped charging, I gambled on buying a reconditioned Bosch one same O/P but with a slightly small pulley diameter - that worked out okay for that car. On your alternator the brushes are probably part of the regulator pack which can easily be replaced, you could hope that the slip rings that they connect with when in use are still serviceable. Normally it is shaft bearings that out an alternator out of use, but maybe your ones are still okay.

Maybe the trend is to manufacture more service demanding cars than what was the case 20 years ago. Your actual car use per year is probably very low, but you have chosen to own a car for “when you need it”, that is basically what our younger daughter and husband have done as they live on the sub’s of London, and only use their car for essential and leisure use. Doing that is sensible and stops them adding to the local traffic congestion - but as they are not “car people” I feel it leaves the car a bit “under serviced”, but it is their lifes and their money. They would probably spend less on motoring if they hired a car when they needed it. Edit:- I’m probably doing the opposite ie doing too much servicing of especially my car for the use I put it too, it will not suffer from that, just keeps me occupied!

My guess would be that it is a sheared wire in the rubber trunking area. Sometimes you can feel a broken and “turned up” end/ends by manipulating the rubber trunking. When I’ve repaired this sort of fault, I’ve always drawn the broken end back into the main car body area and added in a length of wire so that both the joints are away from the area that gets flexed when the hatch gets opened/closed.

@Gonzini, the reason I bought the cheap plug in DVM was maybe two fold, first, it lets me see the voltage at a glance as it is at a convenient angle for easy viewing from the driver's seat - and due to its construction, always in that fixed position, and second because having it plugged in at all times avoids the need to have an expensive DMM in the car when out and about and finding a way to make its screen viewable and "awake". Starting with a fully charged battery, I was initially curious to observe that driving up a long hill with moderate engine revs, the displayed battery voltage dropped slowly - then got charged on the overrun on the other side of the hill - it behaviour is pretty understandable when you think about it, and would not necessarily be the same behaviour if starting with an "not topped up with a charger" battery. Another behaviour you might find is, if road traffic is flowing reasonably freely, even when stopping after a 10 miles run in daylight and the heater fan off, auto Stop/Start might not "happen", reason being that the battery is in a "just surviving" charge condition - mind you, that will only work if there has not been any or much accelerating or braking/overrunning. Obviously this will only happen "now and again" - but as I've seen this happening, I thought that I'd mention it to you.

+1 for buying a cheap plug in DVM, doing that should give you an idea as to how your charging system is operating, I did that a few years ago, and still always have that cheap plug in DVM in whichever car I'm driving - and glance at it frequently!

If you are planning to service and repair "bits" of your car, I try to do all that, and to make life easier, I always make sure that I get a copy of CAR DATA from the relevant VW Group's local dealership's parts department. If you don't want to do that, there are some VW Group parts sellers that will provide with that by email, for very little money - for instance www.coverdalecarparts.co.uk

I hope that when you wrote that you had ordered an OBD2, that you ordered one that can talk to all this car's controllers, if it is just a basic OBD2 scan tool, I'd think that it will only read some engine fault codes. Hopefully you got a suitable scan tool and that has revealed what the ABS fault code is.

Some of the basic choices on VW Group cars are made by the UK importers, they probably try to sense what best suits the majority of the individual model and marque potential buyers and stick with that, the options or factory fitted during initial build choices again get restricted by the importers, again in a bid to meet the "wants" of the individual model and marque potential buyers. Some make sense, some less so - then, there is your own personal need/want to retro fit some goodies after you buy the car, if you like or are able to do that.

I'm sure that on variable service setting, the ECU is continually assessing the "remaining time/miles to service", the miles bit is easy, the time bit gets calculated from "engine use and oil temperatures" so that many short journeys "knock down" the remaining days more than just calendar days. My wife's old 2002 VW Polo, while it was outside warranty and still on variable servicing used to give out a service reminder after roughly 19 months, the way she used that car - though I was changing the oil every 12 months, and eventually changing the servicing to "fixed". So it looks like your exceedingly frequent use on very short journeys has prompted that "early" service warning, which, if I was you, I'd be taking on board and get the car serviced ASAP, and probably get the service scheduling changed to fixed.

Yup, I agree that part/area will insure correct insertion depth and correct orientation.

Yup, same as earlier versions, the small lug on the sort of RHS in your picture is also on the other side, and they grip into the mounting clip, so just "push in/on". The ledge showing on the sort of lower point in your picture will just be a "depth limit stop" and there will be another one below the connector.

With the way that car manufacturers try to upsell items, I would have thought that replacing the coolant would appear on service schedules - especially now that timing belts last longer than the 5 years and the water pumps on lots of engines have stopped carrying the load of the camshaft drive. Going by what I've noticed with my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI - so a car that didn't get fitted with a silicate pouch, 8 years/48miles seems to be as long as I should leave the factory fitted coolant in that car - so a job for this year for me!

@nta16, are you sure that what you are seeing is not just a couple of retainer wedges moulded into the body of the parking sensor - and that these just "press into" mating clips on the mounting brackets - so to remove the sensors "safely" ie without pulling the mounting brackets off the inner face of the bumper cover, the plan should be to ease something like a screwdriver in to open" each side of the mounting clips and so allowing you to ease the sensor out from these locking/retaining clips? Having evolved genuine VW Group etc parking sensors to be mounted like you describe, ie a lot like a bulb fitting, sounds to be either progress - or evidence that an aftermarket kit had been fitted to your wife's Fabia. Aftermarket kit designers will normally try to make assembling/fitting of their kits easy for "Joe Bloggs" - genuine original car manufacturer's parts, less so, aiming more for quickness and cheapness at the initial assembly point for that unit.

I've not got a 2019 Scala, but typically for a VW Group car, you will find that when a box is fitted above the battery, it is only clipped on to the battery and also the battery +VE terminal. You can buy a "memory saver" that typically gets plugged into the OBD2 port/socket in front of the driver's position in the cabin. My maybe sad worry is losing the MPG figures, if losing them does not bother you, then you don't have anything to worry about, when you fit the new battery, there will be warnings, but after driving the car a short distance should allow the electric steering to sort itself out, and operating the electric windows as per the owner's handbook should sort out the window endstop limits. I have a smallish 19AmpHour HillBilly battery that is inside a case that is a jump starter and mobile 12V DC power source, so I connect a suitable lead between the OBD2 socket and that jump starter, switch it on, then remove the car's main battery - making sure that I cover the disconnected +VE terminal to keep it from contacting anything else. A really good plan might be to replace that EFB with an AGM - then soon after doing that, get the new battery coded to the car - do that coding to the car even if replacing a "like for like" battery size and chemistry. Edit:- from memory, pressing down at any clip and fitting a screwdriver into the slot in the clip should force it out and so release it.

Just guessing, probably not the speaker, I'm guessing that when the system is getting enabled, it performs a self test - fails that test and so shuts down until next wakened up.

Halfords sells a clip to hold that link arm in place, I've never needed to find out how good a work around fitting that would be - I'm mentioning that as most people can reach a Halfords branch. When my older daughter's 2002 6K SEAT Ibiza ended up with its wiper arms fighting destructively, I just bought a new pair of link arms and probably a new wiper arm, it was winter time and it needed fixing quickly, plus at that time, maybe 2006, I was not aware of them repair clips.

Ah, so you can feel that the handle is trying to do something AND the washer fluid is not spraying out of the rear spray head, sounds a lot like the washer fluid is leaking inside the rear hatch and that that has given the electric hatch release a problem - maybe. All will be revealed later!

It might be that your parking sensors are just stuck to the inner surface of the rear bumper cover using strong sticky pads - and that is what has failed. Audi, at least, used to have plastic welded mounting brackets for its factory fitted parking sensors to clip/snap into, when I retrofitted front parking sensor to my Audi, I just used some very strong "structural" Araldite as I didn't want/need to get that front bumper cover off again just for that sort of job. So, yes, unless you can reach up with thin strong hands and arms, to get the old sticky tape off and fit new stuff, I'd think that you will find that you have to remove the bumper cover. I'd think that in your local ambient temperatures, that substituting double sided sticky pads for a good strong adhesive could be a good idea - and check the other sensors while the bumper cover is off so that you will not need to get back under there again some time later. Having that sensor hole "open" will not cause any risk from water as the bumper cover is a sort of plastic and the parking sensor is sealed.