rum4mo

If, and only if, the front brake callipers have a vertical spring (looks like a wire) running down the edge of the calliper body, then I'd think that they will be 288mm and so ATE FN3 (54mm pistons).

This request to replace the rear discs and pads could have worked if you had it a condition on buying that car at the agreed price, now as you seem to have agreed the price, I would not expect that dealer to be willing to spend any of their money on it now. As said earlier, rear discs on these cars do or can end up in that condition easily, if/when you replace these discs(and get new pads), if you chose say Pagid discs, then I'd expect that they would not "blacken up" quite as quickly as the original Skoda discs. My oldest daughter's May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra has horrible looking black rear discs, and I've already had to replace the rear brake pads as they wear down quickly probably due to the enhanced braking safety functions on that car, right now its mileage is only roughly 24,000 miles, my youngest daughter's May 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS also has horrible black rear discs and well used rear pads at roughly 31,000 miles - if possible, I'd like to replace her car's rear discs and pads if/when they visit us, MOT testers have not yet made any comments on the state of these rear discs on either car as they probably know that they will still still function as intended - and there is a lot of it about due to the reasons given already. Good Luck with getting that dealer to replace them probably using aftermarket brands, like Pagid, before you collect it though! (if you don't ask you don't get)

I'm guessing that you don't have the TSI engine versions then. I used to get my 2011 Audi S4 MOT'd at the local Audi garage, basically as they would be in a better position to immediately or quickly get and replace any failed parts. That only worked until its second MOT from new, ie 2015 then I got advisories on a few front suspension bushes, which when I examined them, all looked to be in very good condition! So maybe 9.5 years later, I'm considering replacing a couple of these bushes, but I'm now using a VW Group Indie for MOTs and they have yet to pass out any advisories. I agree with AG Falco, nothing to bother about yet and I'm surprised that an honest MOT tester has passed comments on these bushes in that condition. I do intend to replace them on both sides on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI before its next MOT in August.

So the source of this problem, probably after scanning the car, was found to be a seat sensor.

I agree with the above and I similarly have been making sure that I avoid buying VW Group cars that don't have rear disc brakes. since 2000, and yes I do all my own brake servicing.

In both cases it might just be an intermittent wiring problem, that is unless there is a known S/W issue with these cars.

I'd think that you are correct to include the stalk assembly, a workshop with a suitable diagnostic tool could work out if the BCM O/Ps were following the I/P demands.

With a car this new, why take risks, just buy a 1 litre container of pre-mixed (50/50) G12evo from any VW Group dealership. I'd doubt if Halfords etc are up to date with truly 100% compatible coolant for this age of VW Group car.

Are the bolts for fixing the calliper fist to the calliper carrier not just item "3" in the first parts diagram, and the bolts fixing the calliper carrier to the hub bracket not item "13" again in the first parts diagram?

The control stalks on this model of Polo/Ibiza/Fabia and even maybe A1 tend to be "not very good" - I've yet to discover that personally but it sounds like maybe you have! Maybe attempt to take the relevant section of the stalk apart and see if it looks like it has failed/burnt contacts, then see if a good clean up gets it back working.

The answer that I got when I queried the movement of an item being sent via Evri was, "a very short time is given for an item passing through a main handling hub", so after "its clock" has run out, that package tends to get either returned to sender, binned as waste or added to an auction list of packages, which, for their business model, probably makes good sense. For us waiting at the other end, not so good, to be fair though, I was very surprised that Evri was interested in talking to me as I was not the original sender - so not their customer, but I felt that I had to do that as my supplier was just taking the line "oh it will turn up soon" and even got grumpy when I advised them that Evri had accepted that that package was officially listed as "lost in transit" . That package laid low for maybe 6 weeks, then started moving out of the first hub and stuttered around the country, showing up on my door step maybe 2 months later, by that time the tracking number been deleted and then re-appeared again, very strange, my trader had quickly handed me back my money after I demanded to know what their next planned move was though, maybe 3 weeks after I paid for that item. That also happened to something that I bought in from China - I was only doing that as UK suppliers don't want to sell small volumes of some stuff to UK residents without charging an absolute fortune, that time it was Hermes that were handing the UK side of the couriering, package came in on time, passed through customs okay, got to Hermes main hub for incoming goods from abroad, then did not move for 2 days, then the tracking record was removed, turned out that it had been returned to my supplier in China who was no longer interested in that sort of nonsense, so I needed to find another supplier in China again - well ebay found another seller, and it worked out okay that time.

Ah, so you’ve organised a new bit, I must have started writing that post while you were posting!

I was wrong there, it is not LED on Fabia, a WY5W 12V 5W yellow/orange bulb. p/n for RHS is 6V0 949 102. LHS is 6V0 949 101 that is for the clear plastic part. Edit:- if you are into looking at VW Group parts listings it can be found in the “body” section, so 941 - 040 items 30 and 31(for the bulb).

In case you didn’t know, these mirror assemblies are made up from a few individual parts that can be bought separately. From memory there is a plate/frame and the LED inductor lump/strip of clear plastic. I needed to buy the above parts and a cap when someone smashed one on my wife’s 2015 VW Polo. The old guy was driving a VX Corsa and his mirror also got wrecked and swung round and through his side window - that would have wakened up and caused him to move back across to his side of the road!

"typically", you just lift the front edge of the rear seat bases, and I seem to remember, pull it forwards slightly, then grab the rear of the base and fold it forward - that is the way it is done in a 2015 VW Polo anyway. Seat bases can easily get removed if that improves the space for carrying stuff - doing that doesn't allow the the seat back to drop any lower at the pivot though - obviously.

I my world, with these Lucas rear callipers, you do need to remove these 2 bolts to service the rear brakes, unless "servicing" is just spraying some brake cleaner in. I was going to suggest that the copper sealing washers on the banjo bolt look to be too thick, but seeing the difference in the same measurement side to side in the pictures, what I was considering to be thicker washers, just pales into insignificance. So far the worst thing that I have had when buying a re-manufactured rear Lucas calliper was what looked like a "garden shed" job of repairing a stripped bleed valve hole - I just handed that otherwise okay calliper back. Edit:- this makes me think that I should take a look at the one I fitted a couple of months ago, seeing as the fluid line was the bit I did last - I had filled up the calliper with fresh fluid before putting the fluid line back on - just to displace as much air as possible, as I just bleed it using a Mityvac hand pump after removing my sealed cap from the reservoir. Maybe it has a different size of piston, ie meant for another car, if so another reason to return it. I think that there were 34mm and 38mm versions of that model, and just maybe 41mm pistons. The pistons on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI were 38mm, I wasn't that trusting, I measured both piston sizes of the original calliper and the re-manufactured one. Plus I went over the new calliper with a digi calliper to check what I considered to be all relevant measurements.

I spotted some chunky bits of rust on the garage floor on Saturday when I opened the garage door to drive my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS with 49,000 miles, back in! It didn't take much guessing to consider that it was (finally) time to replace the clamps on the mid point exhaust joining piece - which I had bought almost 2 years ago as NOS VW Group part. So, yesterday, I picked off the broken/rusted through clamp and unbolted the almost broken/rusted through other clamp, and opened up the new clamps harvested from that new joining piece and fitted them over the old original stainless steel split joining part. All done BEFORE the exhaust had worked itself loose from the joining piece - result! I was a bit surprised that I had managed to remove the clamping bolt from the "just still intact" clamp, but the "special release juice" seemed to work well. Edit:- PlusGas!

I'd hope that if you have had a look at one side with the drum of, then you will know where to expect to find the wedge on the other side - if the one you have already got the drum off is closer to the rear of the car, the one on the other side will once again be closer to the rear of the car - obviously if I'm wrong and the one that you got the drum off was nearer the front of the car, then so will the wedge on the other side. I'm guessing that you have got the drum free from being gripped by rust on the hub? If you fight this too much without backing off the adjustment via the wedge, then you might just be tilting over a shoe or shoes - and that will just make things trickier to get that drum off.

At least if you fit the spare wheel down into the wheel well and secure with the correct bolt thing, and same for the tools kit, it will not be free to "come and get you" if you are unfortunate enough to be involved in an event where the car gets rolled over.

I’d think that your car has an electric steering rack, but that is just a guess as the Ibiza and Polo had changed to that by the time period covering this model of Fabia.

Tapping the alternator might be freeing up the small carbon brushes that are either sticking in their holders due to a build up of carbon dust, or the same issue and they have worn down so are now too short to be useful. I due to the huge cost difference, when the alternator on my older daughter’s 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 went badly faulty - stopped charging, I gambled on buying a reconditioned Bosch one same O/P but with a slightly small pulley diameter - that worked out okay for that car. On your alternator the brushes are probably part of the regulator pack which can easily be replaced, you could hope that the slip rings that they connect with when in use are still serviceable. Normally it is shaft bearings that out an alternator out of use, but maybe your ones are still okay.

Maybe the trend is to manufacture more service demanding cars than what was the case 20 years ago. Your actual car use per year is probably very low, but you have chosen to own a car for “when you need it”, that is basically what our younger daughter and husband have done as they live on the sub’s of London, and only use their car for essential and leisure use. Doing that is sensible and stops them adding to the local traffic congestion - but as they are not “car people” I feel it leaves the car a bit “under serviced”, but it is their lifes and their money. They would probably spend less on motoring if they hired a car when they needed it. Edit:- I’m probably doing the opposite ie doing too much servicing of especially my car for the use I put it too, it will not suffer from that, just keeps me occupied!

My guess would be that it is a sheared wire in the rubber trunking area. Sometimes you can feel a broken and “turned up” end/ends by manipulating the rubber trunking. When I’ve repaired this sort of fault, I’ve always drawn the broken end back into the main car body area and added in a length of wire so that both the joints are away from the area that gets flexed when the hatch gets opened/closed.

@Gonzini, the reason I bought the cheap plug in DVM was maybe two fold, first, it lets me see the voltage at a glance as it is at a convenient angle for easy viewing from the driver's seat - and due to its construction, always in that fixed position, and second because having it plugged in at all times avoids the need to have an expensive DMM in the car when out and about and finding a way to make its screen viewable and "awake". Starting with a fully charged battery, I was initially curious to observe that driving up a long hill with moderate engine revs, the displayed battery voltage dropped slowly - then got charged on the overrun on the other side of the hill - it behaviour is pretty understandable when you think about it, and would not necessarily be the same behaviour if starting with an "not topped up with a charger" battery. Another behaviour you might find is, if road traffic is flowing reasonably freely, even when stopping after a 10 miles run in daylight and the heater fan off, auto Stop/Start might not "happen", reason being that the battery is in a "just surviving" charge condition - mind you, that will only work if there has not been any or much accelerating or braking/overrunning. Obviously this will only happen "now and again" - but as I've seen this happening, I thought that I'd mention it to you.

+1 for buying a cheap plug in DVM, doing that should give you an idea as to how your charging system is operating, I did that a few years ago, and still always have that cheap plug in DVM in whichever car I'm driving - and glance at it frequently!