Binx1310

The white colour of the black/white Skoda badges from AliExpress I now have on the car isn't quite right (more like candy white rather than Moon White) and doesn't give the clean look I was hoping for. I refuse to pay £100 for two Skoda badges from Kopacek so decided to make my own. I ordered another pair of Black/White badges from AliExpress. I thought I would use the White background ones so that the paint had a pale base layer to go onto. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009424974993.html I then ordered some colour matched spray paint including clear lacquer. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166899014624 And finally some specialist hard plastic glue as SuperGlue doesn't work well on the ABS plastic these badges are made from https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001OZI5C First step was to dissasemble the badges. These come off quite easily with a slight bend of the back plate and gentle pry from a trim tool. I labelled each badge A/B and put the black parts in labelled bags so that they would reassemble properly. The whole of the white area of the badge as roughed up with some fine sandpaper and then wiped over with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and residue. These then had 3 gentle coats of basecoat At this point I was slightly concerned that the colour didnt look much different so I painted a small portion of the cardboard with OEM touch up paint as comparison and it was spot on. This can be seen at the bottom right of the above picture, so I was happy to crack on. Next was two gentle coats of clear lacquer and this really brought out the colour and the metallic in the base coat. The photos really don't do it justice. Then came reassembly. The glue is the type that gets applied to both parts separately, allowed to dry for a few minutes and then assembled. These went back together well and will be left for a couple of days to fully cure. In between the rain showers I had to have a quick comparison with what I started with. It looks brilliant in person and hopefully shows up on the photo below. With the car clean, and not covered in rain, I think the colour match will be perfect and a certain improvement over the standard AliExpress badge. Total cost was just under £30 so cheaper than one Kopacek badge without delivery and took approx half an hour of work and a couple of hours of drying time all in. No real skill required other than a gentle hand on dissasembly and ensuring light coats of paint to avoid runs. Im not sure if OEM badges dissasemble in the same way, so this could potentially be done with an OEM Monte Carlo badge to ensure fitment to the car is perfect. I shall await some better weather and get them installed on the car and update with further pictures when that's done.

I bought some black/white Skoda badges from AliExpress but the white wasnt quite right (more like candy white rather than Moon White of my car) and wasn't the clean look I was hoping for. I refuse to pay £100 for two Skoda badges from Kopacek so decided to make my own. I ordered another pair of Black/White badges from AliExpress. I thought I would use the White background ones so that the paint had a pale base layer to go onto. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009424974993.html I then ordered some colour matched spray paint including clear lacquer. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166899014624 And finally some specialist hard plastic glue as SuperGlue doesn't work well on the ABS plastic these badges are made from https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001OZI5C First step was to dissasemble the badges. These come off quite easily with a slight bend of the back plate and gentle pry from a trim tool. I labelled each badge A/B and put the black parts in labelled bags so that they would reassemble properly. The whole of the white area of the badge as roughed up with some fine sandpaper and then wiped over with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and residue. These then had 3 gentle coats of basecoat At this point I was slightly concerned that the colour didnt look much different so I painted a small portion of the cardboard with OEM touch up paint as comparison and it was spot on. This can be seen at the bottom right of the above picture, so I was happy to crack on. Next was two gentle coats of clear lacquer and this really brought out the colour and the metallic in the base coat. The photos really don't do it justice. Then came reassembly. The glue is the type that gets applied to both parts separately, allowed to dry for a few minutes and then assembled. These went back together well and will be left for a couple of days to fully cure. In between the rain showers I had to have a quick comparison with what I started with. It looks brilliant in person and hopefully shows up on the photo below. With the car clean, and not covered in rain, I think the colour match will be perfect and a certain improvement over the standard AliExpress badge. Total cost was just under £30 so cheaper than one Kopacek badge without delivery and took approx half an hour of work and a couple of hours of drying time all in. No real skill required other than a gentle hand on dissasembly and ensuring light coats of paint to avoid runs. Im not sure if OEM badges dissasemble in the same way, so this could potentially be done with an OEM Monte Carlo badge to ensure fitment to the car is perfect. I shall await some better weather and get them installed on the car and update with further pictures when that's done.

Right. It’s definitely the bulb. And I managed to test it without taking out the arch liner! There was just enough room to pop the back off the headlight and just enough length on the cable to be able to plug in my old working HID bulb. That lights up fine. No issues no faults. I’m now blind from looking at it but now know it’s time for a warranty claim on the bulb supplier. Thanks @Cairus and @JR RS as always for the brilliant help.

swapped the ballasts. Problem stayed on the right side. So looks like it’s bulb or wiring. Weather is very hit and miss today but will see if I get a chance to swap the bulbs this evening.

Ah ok I didn’t know they were interchangeable left and right. Will give that a go first.

No. The control Modules power down after 20 Minutes or so. The walk away is to ensure the key is far enough away from the car for everything to power down.

I will try and get a chance to swap the bulbs over tomorrow. Was hoping to avoid taking wheels and arch liners off again! Clearing the error doesn’t always make the light work so I don’t think coding will help. I’ve just been out to check the connection to the bulb and that seems fine. But watching the light it seems to come on at the third attempt consistently. Ignition on, turn light switch to on. Bulb pulses half second on and off very faintly 3 times. Light switch off then on. Bulb pulses half second on and off very faintly 3 times. Followed by a flicker of bright. Then off. Light switch off then on. Bulb pulses half second on and off very faintly 3 times. Then lights as normal. Dip and high beam work once it’s on. Does this point more to ballast?

Yes. Passenger side is fine and I know others that have used the same bulbs without issue.

I’ve got an intermittent fault with my drivers side headlight. I had a flickering drivers side bulb a few months ago so took it as an opportunity to upgrade to LED. Passenger side has been fine with no issues at all. Drivers side has continued to have faults. A bit sluggish to turn on sometimes and now I’m getting a Warning on the dash and a fault code: Right low beam headlamp bulb - Open circuit/short circuit to B+ Sometimes the light comes back on of its own accord even with the warning still showing. Sometimes the fault will clear and light still not work. Has anyone seen this before? Is it ballast? Maybe loose connection? Hoping to have some pointers before I undergo the mammoth task of dropping out the arch lining to get to the bulb! I’ve still got the old HID bulbs so may try swapping one out and seeing if the fault goes away.

I believe air care uses the recirculation flap. I wonder if it’s because you have a current fault code for the flap It prevents you enabling it @tombee

Some are on a worm gear so you won’t be able to move them if the actuator isn’t trying to move them too. If you carefully remove pollen filter you can see the flap at the back of it. It’s recommended to slip a bit of cardboard beneath filter to catch any crud that is sitting on top of filter otherwise it goes into the fan. Or just take it to dealer If it’s still under warranty!

duplicate

The calibration thing sorted my stick recirc flap. This is just above the pollen filter so sometimes detritus on the filter can get stuck in it. I think mine might have been the extra wiring from the reversing camera fouling it too. But could be a failed actuator. Not expensive and pretty easy to change.

Yes. Mine was stuck. The flap is above the pollen filter above the glove box. You can try moving the flap with your fingers. But first try a recalibration. You can do it with carscanner or by holding AC and front vent button for a few seconds until the lights start flashing. If not then it will be the actuator. I had to change the one for the main diverter. £10 from Amazon for a non genuine. And about 20 Mins to change.

I used fuse 48 (blind spot detection) There’s a couple of the smaller blade fuses that are switched too. You can go through them with multimeter and get someone to switch on/off for you. I think there’s only a few that are switched AND enough space for the jumper.

That’s just the trouble, People don’t think! I’m always super paranoid working around airbags and routing cables. It takes no more than a few minutes extra and some small Cable ties to be sure.

Long coding 6D bootlid Hard reset

Worth a check with code reader. Sounds like BCM/ other control system is knocking power off to protect circuit. The reset process seems to suggest it’s some Kind of protection. Something might be shorting out. Will Hopefully show up a clue on the code reader.

Go to long coding, boot lid and then scroll to bottom and select hard reset.

Is the quoted version what you have or what you are looking to update to? If it is what you have then it’s the latest version. https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MST2_EU_SK_ZR_PO480T#details If it’s not what you have then enter your current version on to MiB helper and it will direct you to the correct version to download.

It seems very hit and miss as to if it works with carscanner. Perhaps try a hard reset in the relevant long coding section?

Thanks. Looking forward to getting a chance to change the roof bars too as I think will really finish it off.

Some sunshine and a bit of downtime meant I could continue with the chrome delete project. I decided to start wrapping the chrome around the windows. Not too bad of a job and I’m really pleased with the result. Slow and steady is the secret. And gentle applications of heat in key spots. Drivers side all done. But I’m now out of scalpel blades so have ordered some up and will hopefully finish the other side tomorrow.

Some sunshine and a bit of downtime meant I could continue with the chrome delete project. I decided to start wrapping the chrome around the windows. Not too bad of a job and I’m really pleased with the result. Slow and steady is the secret. And gentle applications of heat in key spots. Drivers side all done. But I’m now out of scalpel blades so have ordered some up and will hopefully finish the other side tomorrow. I followed this guide which is good for the basics.

I find Spotify does this on my 2016 MIB2 using wireless CarPlay dongle from time to time. Only thing I have found is press pause before it disconnects. Not sure if it’s an iPhone issue or MIB issue but it seems to be intermittent as to when it does it.