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ApertureS

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Everything posted by ApertureS

  1. Sadly you can’t tell with the VIN, it involves a physical check. The easiest way to tell is look under the dashboard under the glovebox at the bottom of the blower motor, or open the glovebox and look behind at the pollen filter flap. Either of these will be stamped Valeo or Denso and no the matrix can’t be swapped for one or the other and the fitting kit with clamps and seals is also specific to the brand of matrix
  2. It’s still in my pipework to do. Just gotta fit the dcc first! It can only be done with odis or vcp sadly
  3. Could you post a photo of what it is you mean? Is it the front or rear light? And is it the complete unit or just the trim around it?
  4. Seems expensive! I can offer the water pump and thermostat with all genuine parts for roughly £700 all in. it depends what plug is damaged and how it’s damaged and depends what is wrong with the timing correlation fault. located north London
  5. Very common on Vauxhalls where the oil pressure switch failed, forced oil up the inside of the wire and insulation and into the engine ecu. I’ve also seen a bmw do it with coolant via one of the external water pumps, made a right mess!
  6. None of the wiring will be there for this but it is for sure possible to fit it after the purchase of a car I believe being in north London is a tad too far for you to bring the car though 😛
  7. Got a picture of the pins you did have? I’ll check it against a wiring diagram. mine had only 7 pins and I’ve got no issues. What we’re the specs of the car? And did the wheel buttons work before? the wheel buttons go straight through on a LINbus pin to the gateway - pin 8 (new 14 pin connector) is a violet/white wire which is the one for the steering controls.
  8. It’s a pain how sensitive the button is. my main key I opened the circuit board up and desoldered the button for it. was sick of my boot being open at all times of the day cause I’ve sat on the key!
  9. You must be within a few meters of the tailgate for it to work as a safety feature. it can be hacked with odis or vcp by uploading a special dataset which can be found in the pinned threads of this forum, but it will only work on a very specific module part number and software version.
  10. You would need a bodyshop to assess fully but based on the limited pictures I’d say the damaged sill can be left alone if you didn’t want it repaired. the trim panel can be sourced from Skoda correct, or it may be cheaper to find a used part possibly on eBay or a breakers.
  11. The metal is too thin in that area and the high pressure inside forces the metal to stress and crack. Its called a dq200 accumulator repair kit.
  12. The gloss black trim is replaceable, the trim piece it sits on comes unpainted so maybe just repair your current one. The actual sill itself does not come as a easily replacable part and would need repairing and repainting.
  13. Check the top of this metal sump, there is a breather, check if any oil is leaking from it. if so I would assume as said above it is the usual dq200 mechatronic housing cracking, luckily there are repair kits to save purchasing an entire mech unit!
  14. Are you sure it’s not where the sun hasn’t faded? if so, I think you’ll struggle to sort out a bit that uv hasn’t faded
  15. Why have you only got 1 key on a 1 year old car? Mine left the factory with 3 keys, so do you have 2 more lying around you may need to find? Regarding any data or tracking of the keys, There is nothing in the app that can assist with this and there is no data. The keys have 2 types of transmit, a active signal at 433/434mhz when the key buttons are pressed. The second applies to keyless entry vehicles which use a passive signal and return a signal afterwards, i believe this is at 868Mhz. Even so, these signals wont be much help without a purpose built tracker/reciever and youll need a keyless entry car.
  16. If its of any use to anyone. Ive fitted the full canton system is a 2018 skoda superb. Required roughly an additional 140 METERS of new wiring in mostly twisted pairs. Heres some photos for all interested.
  17. Climatic wont have it, only climatronic
  18. Be careful with these from aliexpress, people have had issues of them killing the linbus network they are on. Use this website instead - it may take a week or two to arrive, but its a hell of a lot cheaper. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/5Q0907643F/5q0907643f-genuine-vag
  19. Why would they replace the battery terminal screws? Where are the old ones? Anyone else get the feeling they have either reverse charged the old battery or fitted the new battery back to front and caused a fair bit of damage.
  20. You need to start with a decent code read and live data. if the temperature sensor wiring has failed this will prevent the seats turning on. So without being able to confirm the fault you will have 0 chance of finding the fault
  21. That’s brilliant, shame you are too far from me otherwise I’d grab it. We are gonna be doing something similar for our trip across the continent
  22. If these are the faults you have, as in: no reverse camera tsr fault trailer assist inop And you have access to either vcds or obd11 I could give you a hand manually reenabling them - it may be long and drawn out but if you drop me a message on the link in my signature I could run you through what needs doing. (for anyone asking why I’m offering outside the forum, it’s so things can be done in real-time rather than between forum posts - the final outcome will I’m sure be posted here)
  23. Sorry i meant software number, does it match up. Regarding the coding this is how odis displays it; Byte00: 0110 0100 ($64) Byte01: 0001 0100 ($14) [LN]_Ignition key removal lock: [VN]_not installed [LN]_Buttons for multi-function display: [VN]_not installed [LN]_Rear Window Wiper: [VN]_installed [LN]_Buttons for driver assistance systems: [VN]_not installed [LN]_Switch_for_cruise_control_integrated_in_turn_signal_switch: [VN]_not installed [LN]_Switch_for_cruise_control: [VN]_installed [LN]_Adaptive_cruise_control: [VN]_installed [LN]_Signal horn activation: [VN]_Always [LN]_Horn_debouncing: [VN]_not active [LN]_speed_limiter_button: [VN]_installed [LN]_diagnosis limitation: [VN]_not active [LN]_Read_p_locked: [VN]_active Byte 0 which is the 64 doesnt actually have any changable values so dont know what its purpose is, but it looks like it may need adjusting as a complete byte - unsure if OBD11 has the ability to do this like ODIS does. (OBD11 may go bit by bit instead of complete byte) Byte 1 is then all the variables. If you are still unable it may come down to using ODIS and running the SVM routine which will full reset and set the module up correctly.
  24. Thinking of it this way. if the valves are closed at bottom dead centre the engine uses it’s up stroke to compress the air, the compressed air wants to expand to will use that same power to assist pushing the piston back down. if the valves close at top dead centre as the piston drops and pulls a vacuum it will want to return to its previous state (same as putting your finger over the end of a syringe) it will pull the piston back up. Not sure the science or numbers on it, but both of these processes use power to vacuum or compress, then the air wanting to return to its normal state would negate the losses. (this is my thinking on the science of things and yes it’s not 100% efficient either)

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