ApertureS

Remove the door card, remove the sealing panel behind it. Then reach your hand in and pop the panel out from the inside. No other way to do it without damaging stuff

So many people here giving their opinion based on a photo of the outside face of a disc. You cant see thickness, the inside face, any leaks in the caliper contaminating the disc/pad, cracks/splits. Saying to someone a safety critical component is okay from a single picture is not the best thing to do in my opinion when you cant physically see it and inspect it. And in all fairness it makes you no better than the person on the service desk in a main dealer who says yes that needs changing without all the facts or information in front of them. The chances of any of the above being wrong are slim, but I still wouldnt be saying yes they are okay from a photo.

No... just no. Dont go anywhere near a car with that stuff. Whether you put it in a localised area, it flows through the complete coolant system at one point or another. Replace the charge cooler is the only option.

Im gonna be honest, at this point im tapping out and not offering any further assistance except stop messing with things and bodging them and take it to a reputable qualified person. Fitting incorrect parts, bypassing wires, secondhand ECUs, shorting other wires, sticking random resistors in, mixing wire colours up - this is all a list of things you should not do when it comes to airbag systems. You seem to have a small amount of knowledge and I respect trying to repair your own car, but when it comes to airbag systems you need all the knowledge - you cant just try things and see what happens, you risk damaging components or triggering airbags.

I dont actually think its eleven or 11. I think it is more to do with OBD2 or more likely OBD II, II as in 2. Thats my thoughts on it.

I always find this argument a funny one.... If your engine has enough sludge/dirt that loosening it up will cause damage to the engine, then the damage is already done and its past the point of fixing it with a magical chemical. That being said, engine flush is one of these 'magic chemicals' that i think is absolute rubbish. Stick to the service routine, use good quality parts and youll have no need for any engine flushes.

I mean, no pads dont always need to be replaced with discs. But, there are a huge amount of factors that determine if 1. the discs need replacing now, 2. will the discs last for the next set of pads or near enough. Many factors come into it including thickness, lips, grooves, heat marks, corrosion, contamination, damage. All of these need to come into account. The first picture its hard to tell but looks like the surface is grooved in lots of places, the second looks like it has a bit of wear on the thickness but cant tell without measuring. You need to ask whoever is doing the work to prove the discs are required by measuring and comparing to the specification and also a qualified visual inspection.

Have you checked for any fault codes? have you checked the radar positions? have you had the radars static calibrated?

It’s gonna be near impossible for me to comment as I haven’t actually seen the car but I’ll still say what I can; yes the 3 cylinder engines are very very rough running engines and that’s ’normal’ but you say it’s worse now they’ve done a belt change. personally I would be asking them to time the engine again and just make sure the pins go in as required, it’s not a massive job to time this engine as technically if you know what you are doing you don’t even need to touch the belt or timing cover. as the pulleys are not keyed and are freewheeling it is extremely easy to time the engine a few degrees up either way by mistake. yes the pulleys are oval shaped and are marked to only go in 1 position using a camshaft pulley to camshaft pulley locking tool, but even if they were 90/180 degrees out I couldn’t see them causing a vibration. Final words; if the vibration is more apparent now then I would put money on the timing being ever so slightly out of position.

You got a copy or screenshot of that? Cause I spent a while looking and couldn’t come up with anything at all

The canton speakers are not direct upgrades for standard as they have different resistance ratings.

I can assume you are talking about the car in your bio but please be more specific, and also about what the problem is. The rear wipers are controlled by the same module as the front, the J519 body control module. Fused at SC47 with a 15A fuse and has 2 wires going to the BCM to control it. The front is controlled via LIN.

What you are asking for is not how component protection works. CP is there to lock the module to the vehicle specifically. You cant just take a module to someone with odis and ask them to remove it, it needs to be in a vehicle and assigned to that vehicle, if it was taken and placed in another vehicle then it will be locked. Now regarding reading and writing eeproms, there are people out there with much much bigger budgets and vested interests in cracking CP whether for theft or other reasons and they havent managed it easily (very few can do it). Regarding removal of CP for a 5F module, this can be done with the MIBtoolbox but it is a superficial removal and simply allows full functionality, fault codes relating to CP still remain.

Not a chance they will touch the filter... ever. There is not even a listed torque setting for the filter housing meaning its not even a main dealer authorised job! Crazy to think...

Just so everyone is aware… the clutches aren’t on/off. the pressure is varied and the rate of engagement can vary too. shifting at 30mph at 2000rpm (probably 3rd) down to 1st is not advisable but technically possible, the gearbox would simply slip the clutch a lot so the rpm wouldn’t shoot up, as the rpm got closer to what is required it would feather the clutch in a bit more at a time. the joys of oil cooled clutches helps keep them cool and from burning out with the large amount of slippage that occurs on daily driving.

Out of interest, the chances of a completely destroyed engine are pretty low. you may have some bent valves and damaged piston heads, you hopefully got away without scoring the sidewalls. to me that sounds like a perfect time for a bigger turbo, ported head and larger valves and cylinder bored slightly for larger pistons for a bit more of a kick 😛

5Q0919275C if you are talking about the back 4 sensors mounted in the black plastic piece. If you have self park and the additional side sensors the part number for the two side sensors is 5Q0919275B which come unpainted and are body colour matched.

Please find attached. Are you doing a retrofit? Ive personally carried out a few canton retrofits now myself. canton pdf.pdf

You tried just nudging the wheel a bit and turning the key at the same time?

The oil probably has a silver tint to it as well now...

Forget trying to copy any data from the old one. Good thing about newer VW cars is all data is held in the mothership. It should be as straight forward as fitting a matching ECU part number (or a superseding one) and running the ODIS routine for ECU replacement. You will need someone with a genuine VAS tool and a geko security account to allow all this to happen. The car will collect all the data from the vw mothership, code the new ECU and then will run the immobiliser service routine - note - you will need ALL keys present else they will not work after this.

why... if there is a warning, why would you just carry on and knowingly cause more damage? I wouldnt call it a breakdown as that implies it wasnt expected and couldnt be avoided - more negligence? What can be done about it? Well youll have to get it seen by a garage who will gauge how bad the damage is and possibly recommend a replacement engine if its seized.

The vega 19 inch alloy part number is 3V0 601 025 AP HA7

There is no emergency/mechanical release. Have you got a problem and cant open the tailgate?

Pull up the live data for both lumbar support motors and screenshot them here. It should show 4/5 pieces of live data per motor. Both end stop positions, current position, and possibly one more value? EDIT: For each motor you should have Block 1, Block 2, Position, Direction, Reset Counter