pikpilot

There are signals also from the controller in the drivers door to the near side doors. Check for wire breaks in the body to drivers door snake.

Two possibilities. Firstly, You have an upstream fuse blown. Check the fuses in the engine bay fuse box behind and to the left of the battery. Secondly, if the engine starts and runs for about ten seconds it indicates that the immobiliser has cut the engine. Try the second key. Beyond that, the next step is to read the stored fault codes. Code readers are cheap for a basic unit with no built in decoding such as a ELM 327 and suitable software on your phone etc. Once you have the code numbers they can be decoded by many online sites or by making a search for the code number.

Sit on the driver's seat with your legs hanging out so you can see the fuse panel shown in your photo. Then hold the fuse cover you unclipped by your knees so that the fuse location diagram is facing the the fuse panel and you can see both. Being a right hand drive car and the diagram is for a LHD car, you should be able count along each fuse location and marry up your car with diagram. Tell us what the diagram says is the function for each of your circled fuses.

I know it is an old thread but I thought it was worth reminding us that if the car is stationary, engine protection will not allow you to rev the engine above ~3000 rpm.

Well done. You may have had some moisture in the connector. Keep an eye on all the power cables, particularly for corrosion on the power wires where they go into the crimp connector. Check also at the earth wire on the alternator where it goes to the engine/body as this comes up quite often.

With engine running and a fully charged known to be good battery, try turning the wheels from full left to full right a couple of times to see if it resets its knowledge of where the stops are.

Yes, as you suggest. There are four small screws once the glass is out to release the lower part of the cover. The indicator is an LED so it may not be the cause of not working. You should be able pull the glass out by moving it to point inwards and then pulling the glass out by putting your fingers behind and pulling. That's the theory but mine was so tight I was in danger of breaking the mirror. In the end I gave a new puddle light bulb to the Skoda Garage and asked them to do it as the car was with them for other work.

Can't help you too much on this as i do not have wiring diagram for your version. The large power cables go to few big loads but mostly to other other fuseboards where they supply small fuses going to smaller loads. One way to get a clue is to see which other smaller loads are not working, such as wipers, window raise/lower, radio etc etc. On the ecm question, Disconnect the battery then unplug the cable again and examine for bent contacts, chafed wires or other damage.

It would be better to fix the wiring first before looking again at the flap motor as it will be getting a reduced voltage via the corroded cables. This will reduce the power of the motor as it is a dc motor. Once the cables are fixed the flap motor may not need any attention. There is a procedure to test and reset all the flap motors by pressing a combination of climatronic buttons. The exact buttons to use varies with the model year. There are videos on line which show how to do it on certain models.

1) Flap motor. I do know whether the motors are small dc motors or, more likely stepper motors. That is what I would have used if I was designing it. You would need specialist equipment to test a stepper motor outside the car. Cables. As Pete said, first repair the damaged cables. I would say the likely cause of your problem is the corrosion of the 60A and 100A cables at their terminations shown in your second picture. The 100A double black cable has its strands of wire so badly corroded that it is almost certain to be the cause of your Terminal 30 fault code. Make repairs to both the 60A double cable and the 100a black double cable. I would suggest letting an auto electrician do the work as he will have the the correct cable, crimp connector and crimping tools. He may find other places with cable corrosion that is not in your photos. Did you find any corrosion on the rear of the printed circuit board?

This is one of the signs of the nylon gears on the flap motor are jammed or slipping. You may need to change the appropriate flap motor. Terminal 30 is a high current supply from the battery and goes to many fuses. So if you have corrosion in its feed or output connection this give this fault code. You have not put your model, model year, or country detail below your name so I have to guess you are in Scandinavia, Iceland or a Baltic state as you also have an auxiliary heater (almost unknown in the UK). Disconnect the battery then look at the bottom of the fuseboard in the engine bay. Some people have reported corrosion on the bottom of the printed circuit board board and the connections to the fuses. Failure of a supply from terminal 30 will account for many of the symptoms mentioned Once we have the details of your car I am sure someone will come along with further help based on your particular car's wiring diagram.

Watch the level in the coolant tank as you rev the engine. Does the level go down? Is the level correct when idling?

It is probably a battery related problem, which does not mean the battery is dead. It could be an alternator problem, slipping aux belt, a fuse blown, corroded earth strap etc. Use a multimeter to help find the cause or take the car an automotive electrician.

You can confirm that using the link below. Enter your VIN (on the left hand side of first page) or choose your model and then drill down through the parts. https://7zap.com/en/

As I said above, it's a lock/ switch problem. I did the search on here for you and this is the first post I found:-

Your picture of the mirror looks like it has some extra curvature on the right but only you can tell. One final point is that your mirror may have a "knock back" mounting. Try to move the whole mirror assembly left and right in case it is has moved a little off centre.

Two possible causes. The security pin that stops the wheel being turned when locked has failed and is jamming the mechanism OR the switch assembly at the back of the lock has failed. The latter is a more common problem and there are pictures in threads on here that will help you to take out the lock and the switch to make a repair.

Please explain further? How could I tell? Thanks Here is an image of a typical drivers' mirror. You can see a dotted line on the glass in this version beyond which the mirror curvature is increased to show what is happening further out. Octavia mirrors often have a solid rather than dotted line. If you don't have this change of curvature then someone has used a passenger side mirror from a LHD car. The glass is available by itself; you don't need to buy a complete mirror.

Push the mirror outer edge as it may still have more angle available in the mount for the glass. Then adjust the mirror back to your position of choice.

Sounds like the plastic peg that connects the regulator to the window has broken. See Haynes Manual for photos and instructions. Not too difficult to replace.

First step is to disconnect the battery again for a few minutes then reconnect and try again.

I looked at sourcing my alarm from aliexpress and also a well known auction site. The aliexpress alarm was long delivery and my neighbours and wife would never have waited!. The auction site units appeared to be old alarms taken out of cars when replacing with new ones! The Varta cells used in the alarm unit can be found on line but are often not wire ended or slightly bigger and different form factor. Several threads on here with photos showing how to cut open the alarm and replace the cells. As the car came out of the factory (assuming no parking assist) there is nothing in the boot that makes a noise. Look for something that appears to be added later.

Alarm battery is soldered to the printed circuit board inside the sealed unit. Skoda say the alarm should be changed at (7?) years. Usual fault symptom, due to its battery failure, is that the alarm goes off by itself - randomly and at night (ask my neighbours!) I had to replace my alarm unit last year so same age as your car at present when first a problem. I would accept the occasional beep while driving then replace the unit when it goes off when parked. Also check to the fuse supplying power to the alarm. With the ignition on the small battery is being topped up and should not allow beeps from the alarm whilst driving. The alarm is situated behind the front drivers side wheel arch. I would not rule out that the beep sound is coming from the parking sounder situated behind the lower trim between the doors on the passenger side. Try cleaning the parking sensors.

Both are activated by the reversing light switch on the the gearbox. Not unknown for the switch and particularly its wiring/plug to be damaged/corroded as its usually underneath the car.

See possible causes here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01317