PetrolDave

The difference is that you can do them from an app, hopefully using someting like IFTTT, to adjust the TRV settings automatically (based on time, date, who's at home, etc.) rather than having to walk round to every radiator and adjust them manually.

Older deliveries have older hardware and not all have had the latest firmware updates - which seem to be what has fixed the problem for most owners of older cars, and seems to no longer be a problem on the most recent deliveries? As has been said often here, Skoda started deliveries while the firmware was still not properly tested (especially in RHD countries) - but VW did the same with the Golf 8 too, so it's a wider VAG problem.

Sounds like the gear linkage needs adjusting.

Surround or adapter you're both talking about the same thing, just using different words.

I'm in a similar situation, most of my drives are less than 50 miles per day but I regularly, about once a month, need to make a 200 mile cross country trip where currently I only pass one EV charging station and that's quite near to home. So a pure EV with a GUARANTEED in all weather conditions 200 mile range would require me to unnecessarily lug around a heavy battery 30 days out of 31, which would mean a range extender EV with an electric range of 70-100 miles would be environmentally better.

Check the markings on the headlights, if they are halogen bulbs then that will confirm they are only Type Approved for halogen bulbs, that means that fitting with HID or LED bulbs will be an MOT fail (as well as being of questionable legality). The headlamp bulbs will most likely be an H7 for main beam and an H15 dual filament for dipped beam and DRL - that's what they were on my 2015 15 plate Octavia 3. I suggest looking at brighter, but shorter life, halogen bulbs such as Osram Night Breaker or similar. The vast majority (all?) exterior bulbs are monitored so replacing any of them with LEDs will generate a bulb failure warning, but these can be removed by changing the appropriate adaptation channel in the BCM to tell it that the bulb type is LED.

No, for many years now the infotainment units have remembered the VIN and if when the battery is reconnected the VIN (reported on the Infotainment CAN bus) is the same they don't ask for a code.

If the MOT was at a dealer then get a second opinion, sadly it's not unusual for pad wear to be advised as a problem but when checked by another place they confirm there is no need to replace the pads. My most extreme personal experience was a dealer who told me I needed new pads and discs but a second opinion said the pads were only 25% worn and the discs even less (I am very gentle on the brakes) - it was 3 years later when I actually needed to replace the pads (but not the discs).

My Octavia with halogen lights needed deflectors, my previous Audi RS4 with Bi-Xenon lights could be put into "Tourist Mode". It all depends on the headlights, it seems that if they have a single bulb plus mirror or matrix lights then they don't need deflectors (as the hardware and software exist to be able to horizontally adjust the beam) but any with a two filament halogen will definitely need deflectors.

Marshall Skoda in Barnstaple charged me just shy of £600 for a cambelt change and intermediate service on a 1.4TSI in 2020. On the Octavia 3 the 1.4TSI is basically the same engine as the 1.5TSI but the 1.5 has the addition of ACT.

Are you sure you mean 28th Aug? That would mean you collected it 6 weeks before it was built, so maybe you mean April or May?

How many miles has the car done? I ask because that almost suggests that the clutch is slightly dragging at times.

It could be just as simple as incorrect alignment?

There has been thousands of vehicle stored in the open at Southampton port for at least 15 years to my personal knowledge, so probably much longer. Also from the M5 driving past Avonmouth you can see thousands of vehicles stored in the open portside.

Don't now if this applies but, there's no synchromesh on reverse so if you select reverse while still rolling forward, or even a couple of seconds after coming to a stop, then the non-synchromesh gears will make a noise as they try to mesh whilst one is still rotating.

The owner of the sub-post office where I used to live in Southampton owned a De Lorean which he was gradually turning into a Back To The Future replica, it would often be parked outisde his sub-post office which always made it a good day!

Race management in F1 this year is becoming even more farcical than it was in 2021 IMHO.

The majority of the media only show celebs getting in & out of the EVs, they're too taken in by the hype to look behind the scenes and see the diesel generators. I suspect only programmes like Panorama could be interested in stories like this as yet another example of greenwashing.

It almost feels like the FIA is trying to punish the drivers by over zealously implementing rules that have been in place for years but implemented sensibly up to now - maybe for pointing out so publicly the appalling state of race management in 2021?

That's what I had to do to reset the one-touch windows on my 2015 Octavia.

@pab567

I can't see any sawtoothing there, which IMHO rules that out.

Can you post a picture of the tread please? That's where any sawtoothing will be visible.

That code has caused confusion over many years, it isn't actually a measure of oil quality but the flag that the instruments use to indicate whether the car is on fixed or variable servicing. 1 = Bad = Fixed Servicing 2 = Good = Variable Servicing

As per the suggestion from @MarkyG82also take a look at all the tyres for sawtoothing - that's been reported to be the cause of strange noises several times on here.