paulski

I had the coolant expansion tank replaced and its no longer coming with the bag in it nor a double walled version with silica in a section of it. it does not have Mit Silikat printed on the outside either. Part number for the expansion tank was 5Q0121407M.

Not had matrix replaced as yet and have lived with it for over two years now, I leave the driver vents shut😃, and then allow the warmer passenger side to warm the cabin, it's tolerable as I'm on the south coast and its not really cold for very long periods generally. The garage flushed the coolant twice, but alas it made little difference. Yes part isn't high cost, labour as you say varies where you are, so difficult to determine that cost.

Hi all, I usually have my mirrors folding on lock/unlock but have disabled this in the menu for now as it's been below zero for the last few mornings. But, could the folding mirror mechanism be damaged if the gap between lower and upper part freezes and the motor cannot then move it?, I wondered the motor would have a current overload protection circuit, to know if it's using more energy to stop it trying further?

@Moribund My coolant was that colour sort of rusty, but I never saw silica granules in it, it's odd for sure that it discolours. I had the coolant flushed out twice but alas, the matrix is still cold on drivers side, once blocked with silica beads, it ain't going to come out as the pipes are very thin and cannot be unblocked. I reckon a good indy garage would do the matrix for 3-4 hours labour plus parts. Coolant drained, remove glove box remove heater blower remove matrix. install new matrix reinstall removed parts refill with new coolant and bleed.

Side panel removes easily enough, its just clipped in, not much force required. https://youtu.be/ZD2rOX7xx4A?si=PK2UANdO2m-PFCkk Damper reinstallation can test the patience of a saint😆

DSG oil change dq250 wet clutch requires the oil temperature to be measured via diagnostics to check the refill level properly. Not beyond most garages these days they all have to have diagnostic tools TBF else they'd be out of business.

Chipping the paint off will undoubtedly make the car faster. 😄

Looks smart that battery cover, now do bonnet gas strut mod. It's bliss having it lift up effortlessly.

Heated water enters the matrix and exits from the passenger side. Hence you get heat on one side only as the blockages seem stop water flowing to the driver's side of the matrix. I've not seen issues with only hot air at farthest vents on the forum. There are certainly temperature sensors to control cabin split temperatures and these will modulate the flap valves I think.

It is very probable that your heater matrix is blocked, as these are very typical symptoms. I myself have suffered this, my car is still cooler on drivers side (I get cold hands in winter driving unless I close the vents down,) as not had matrix replaced as yet. it occurred after routine cambelt and water pump drain down. silica in the expansion tank depositing in the matrix (or the bag leaked before this)

Fyi. 80 grams is reputably the maximum "ash" "unburnt bit" that the dpf will hold before replacement is required. This is What vcds reports on screen. What I believe your specialist mentioned, 23g is roughly the trigger at which the car enable a regen. I know this as I have witnessed this trigger point with my own VCDS software. After a regen the values drop to around 13g and then gradually rise again with driving.

Locking Chirp enable disable is in the menu "locking and unlocking" on the infotainment. It does not require coding. Fogs as coming home requires VCDS changes. Adaptions in VCDs are here. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/299424-octavia-iii-vcds-adaptations-tried-and-tested/#comment-3569163 I'm in Brighton with full VCDS should you not find users closer by.

@PetrolDave just because car has front assist does not mean ACC is installed. I have front assist and dumb CC😭 and mine is SEL spec. Thx. @Springbok99 full adaptive cruise can be retrofitted by a few companies around the UK. I've considered it but cost and distance to nearest company was not worth it for my usual driving habits.

Only cars with adaptive cruise control will do that. Standard cruise will merely keep fixed speed and not adjust it automatically.

96k miles on my 2.0tdi Dsg still on original battery. Mixed driving, no issues with start stop operating.

Fwiw, a 2016 car with 88k miles on it has "probably" not been sat around doing short trips all its life. With regard to diagnostics, VCDS (a tool that I have myself) will certainly show various parameters for the dpf. I check mine fairly often, it's the Ash soot level that is unburnt material that has a finite value when it requires replacement. At approx 86k miles mine was at 32grams, and a full ash soot level is reported to be 80grams. It is suggested that a dpf should generally last greater than 150k miles if not abused.

On my own car 2.0 TDI DSG, running ECO mode makes no difference to how the DPF regens operate, they don't happen any sooner or later from my experience. Regards

Certainly coolant temperature is operating as normal and oil temp looks to in spec between 90 and 110c. The heat needed to regen the DPF is circa 500C , don't be alarmed. There's heat shielding but hence the fans also run on for a good while if engine is switched off Not sure if VW tested one to destruction, with DPF regen at 500C, stationary vehicle, no heat shielding and no fans operating that would make interesting YouTube video!

Don't panic for now, allow it to do its thing first, let the dpf regeneration complete if you can when doing short runs, it can take 10 minutes or so to run on especially at idle, If it gets interrupted then it will start again if doing short journeys again so just try and let it finish this process. My 16 plate has 94k miles on it and dpf regens every 250miles or so, however I drive it and it's always been like that. Just familiarise yourself with how often it does it. Don't bother with "an Italian tune" or driving it in low gear at speed it won't do anything the car can care for the dpf automatically. If really worried you can get VAG Dpf app on a phone and a little Bluetooth device (Dongle) that plugs into the purple diagnostic socket under the driver side dash and you can see how the dpf is. Or find someone local with VCDS.

you can use the map of VCDS users in this link to find forum members in your area that have VCDS, you can then private message a user to see if they can help you . its worth looking at when the member was last online by clicking on the user name @gizmo worked hard to compile this for all to benefit from but he does not know if members are still active or not. Regards

I have no reason to question parts used as my Indy uses TPS for parts. I have trust in them, for example I had a sticky DSG button that was stopping removal of the ignition key, they'd seen the fault before, they checked over, gave a full cost break down to repair and what it might be as could be one of two faults, (fortunately this was not required as it's stopped mis behaving for no reason after a while) and charged me nothing for investigation work. They don't have a flashy brightly lit reception just a functional workshop😀. Both owners are ex VW Techs and you can tell by just talking to them.

East Sussex region.

Chuff me where those prices coming from! I paid £169 at my VW Indy genuine parts in May 2022. Oil was £85.

Quick search on the forum provides this "part number" that they should be able to find and then possibly understand what they might need to do with it and if you can get through to their parts department! 000054830A You have to bear in mind they won't see these sort of requests very often.

Private message me to arrange for less, Fully registered VCDS in Hove. Kind regards.