xman

Both cambelt and water pump are now officially lifetime items. Last year, VAG formally announced, across all brands, the end of the 4/5 year cambelt scam. For the 1.5 tsi engines, inspection is recommended at 15 years / 180,000 miles. So not a bargaining point.

1.4tsi CAXA chain driven cam https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=6 Now please go to the Octavia 2 forum where you belong ..😉

As posted in 2015, the climate control temperature and direction flaps stepper motors click away seemingly randomly in the dash. That is is you have climate control

Yes, nothing to do with engine rpm especially when in neutral. If the gearbox end mouting flange has end play then it indicates the differential output bearing has collapsed. Yes it happens. If you have the car up with wheels free, grab the drive shafts firmly either side and twist the shafts in opposite directions, repeat in reverse. There should be no flange movement sideways (in/out of the gearbox). If there is, the diff bearings are shot. Consequence can be expensive (new gearbox) the diff is floating side to side and the pinion/crown out of alignment and the crown wheel eventually touches and machines the inside of the housing. Possibly this is the vibration you hear. The classic symptom is a loud clack when going on and off the throttle (Power on/off overrun) which is the diff moving side to side in the gearbox.

I was a customer of this plan from its inception. Its always included the spark plugs / diesel fuel filter/pollen/air filter if it's scheduled which means some low mileage or wrong age bracket won't get them but most will. I suppose there is a danger you could fall victim to an upsell when MOT'd/serviced. It should help a bit with resale value if you have a full dealer history. There are some very expensive bits on a modern Skoda. Radar units, electric boot struts, Infotainment unit.

2010 Octavia 1.4 is most likely the EA111 1.4tsi and has a camchain. Futhermore its a mk2 Octavia, this is an Octavia Mk3 forum. EA211 came in with the mk3 Having said that if his car's done 110,000 miles without a chain change, he's been extremely lucky given the history of the EA111 series. Bet it rattles on cold starts.

Obviously I'd rinse them with clear water afterwards. I understand your concern but never experienced problems but only do it once in a blue moon.

Don't use washing up liquid on a car, but just use on wipers (easiest if you remove them completely and wash in a sink using hot water). The idea is to remove polish/wax/road grime etc. I've been known to use brake cleaner on occasion as that removes contamination easily. Obviously on a car generally you don't want to strip protective wax/polish. Use only car products.

Unfortunately, unless the led bulb has a parallel load resistor to mimick a conventional bulb , I think it requires coding to avoid the bulb out warning popping up.

It used to be £30/month (£720), recently hiked to £900. I've been very fortunate with timing over the last 4 years (so taken out 2 times) in November when they did a 20% off Black Friday deal for the month. So both times paying a little over £25 / month. For me its extremely attractive in that our Superb does 20k per year so covered by 2 long life services that also includes all extended bits (spark plugs). As son is driving on business all over the country breakdown cover is essential, would cost £200+ to get that level of cover elsewhere. Although never needed the warranty yet 🤞it reassuring its a full Skoda warranty and not a third party with excesses involved. Essentially our Superb has been covered by Skoda warranty for 7 years from new. 2 MOTs is also included. Note there are eligibility conditions. Servicing can be done any time (even straight away) and within a 3 year time frame (used to be 4) so you can use the longlife 2 year regime. https://customer.vwfs.co.uk/content/dam/bluelabel/valid/www-vwfs-co-uk/documents/all-in/skoda-allin-mot-and-servicing-terms-and-conditions.pdf

There's a Bosch logo on the wiper if its a genuine aerotwin Once wiper rubbers have developed a direction memory theres usually little hope of fixing them. On some skoda models the front wipers park and occasionally move slightly up to help stop memory developing Avoid getting polish/wax/rainx/etc on the rubber. Wash with soapy water (use washing up liquid)

Possibly anti stall feature on the 1.0tsi. I noticed the idle speed picks up when preparing to pull away on a 1.0tsi kamiq I hired.

If its just starting losing this much oil after a service, I'd check for leaks, in particular check the sump/plug, oil filter/housing and if any breather/ccv pipes that might have been inadvertently pulled out.

The only Tesla Ive been in a friend demonstrated the acceleration (Dual motor) for about 3 seconds (then ran out of road) I felt physically sick, a feeling of intense nausea that took a good hour to get over. I cannot see the point and I can see this could be very dangerous in the wrong hands. I'm surprised that insurance is affordable. I did not like the minimalist interior at all, the fake wood trim reminded me of the stick on vinyl wood trim on my base 1976 Polo.

What engine is it? Iirc the 1.8tsi engine in gen1 and gen2 versions are notorious oil burners due to broken or blocked oil control rings. I'm thinking it could be caused by debris in the combustion chamber, possibly due to the cleaning you had. That would explain why the tip is missing/damaged. The iridium alloy tip is super hard, and you'd not burn it away. If so then the cylinder wall, piston crown and head likely damaged too. The only sure way to tell for sure is would be to remove the head . Alternatively you could use a borescope to take a peek inside and examine the damage.

I doubt any Fabia mk2 had electric folding mirrors. If it does, the control will be part of the left/right/heat thumbweel on the driver's door as an extra position that has a folded mirror symbol in an extra position similar to this Try looking in your manual, you can download these from the skoda website if you don't have a physical one.

Flip open the plastic cover, remove the retaining nut (13mm spanner or socket iirc), the arm is alloy and pushed onto a splined shaft. Good chance its corroded and stuck fast. Try applying a dose of penetrating oil to start off with let it soak an hour or so. If a little jiggling wont shift it then youll need a puller to get it off.

Torque converter, not taught convertor! 😉

Looking at the video I posted, its not hard to imagine how much of a cockup many Skoda technicians would make trying to repair them. Measuring 0.1mm/0.3mm tolerances at several stages, adding subtracting offsets and having to strip and rebuild possibly several times changing shims until all specs are met. And thats just changing a clutch pack. Even spring clips having to be fitted right way round and in the correct position. Not surprising when some previous threads say the mechatronics wont work after a clutch change, and then fleece the customer for a new mechatronics unit which in one instance I recall didn't fix the problem. Then the problems of broken actuator arms and cracked pressure accumulators. Which are both design and quality issues.

The gearbox specialist who rebuilt our 6 speed Octavia manual box has seen and rebuilt hundreds of auto boxes. He describes the 6 speed Wet DSG as a sublime design and a fantastic bit of engineering. His opinion of the 7 speed dry clutch DQ200 is that it is a load of rubbish. But says he doesn't complain as he gets so many in for repair its bread and butter for him. If you actually research what's involved in a Dq200 clutch change youll find its complex requiring specialist tools and skills. I see there are actually 2 generations of DQ200, maybe the gen 2 is a significant improvement on the gen 1.

2.0l engine = wet clutch DSG 6 or 7 speed depending on exact engine and model year

I'm not sure that I would risk fitting a non recommended/ non homologated size tyre. If you do make sure you get the OK from your insurance company before you go ahead with it. You may find oversized tyres catch the bodywork when turning and car leaning. They may have an effect on handling and speedo accuracy. Above all make sure the tyre size is suitablw for the rims you have. Some tyres come with a rim protector. My Superb 235/45/18 OE P7 and the Goodyear 4seasons G3 I fitted last week have an identical protector sitting just above the rim. I take tyre tests with a pinch of salt. I read 4 different group tests and come away with 4 different opinions. Unless the test car and tyre sizes are identical to yours the results can be misleading.

It sounds as if you have Amundsen and not Columbus. Afaik, Amundsen stores its maps on the SD card and not internally. The Amundsen SD card uses the SD protection feature so only a genuine Skoda card will work in it. Check the system info section of the menus to confirm system information. You will need to consult the Amundsen sections of Briskoda for help if I am right.

Lllparts confirms the elongated pad goes on the outside. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/225/6/615/615015

You might already know, but if you don't that your brake pads (as many others) have an inner pad and an outer pad that is different. Edited to remove misleading info. See following posts for updated info