xman

Good point, you also can tweak the RH thumbwheel to start as Driver 1, 2 or 3. Maybe check which driver is selected.

Maybe a dealer has messed about with it at a service or pehaps your wife is thinking of a more drastic alternative to a divorce.....

IMO 6 clicks is ok, should pass MOT. I would recommend not to adjust below 4 clicks as the lack of movement of the lever mech in the rear drums hastens the inevitable tendency to stick on (due to pivot point corrosion). And the onset of "rear brakes" not wanting to release after being parked in rain etc. and drag when they finally release.

Check the operation of the self adjusters (wedges). Also, when you changed them last time, you might not have got the shoes in the perfect central position (too far up or down). Check. Back off the adjustment wedges before removing the drums (otherwise you have difficulty removing the drums....I presume you know how to do this, there is a picture guide on Briskoda if you don't.....) Back them off completely before refitting the drums, (handbrake off). First thing is to operate the footbrake, after a few applications, press down hard on the footbrake a few times. Then pull up the handbrake several times, increasingly harder. Repeat until everything seem right, should have centralised the shoes and adjusted the wedges correctly.

Just make sure they are not shiny, a bit of roughness is required for optimum braking and reduce squealing. If you do want some shoes, Eurocarparts.com will sell you a set of Bosch shoes for under £30. Free delivery or click and collect. Don't forget to use the discount code (on the home page)

Just because they are squeaking doesn't mean they are shot. They usually last 100,000 miles or more. Take the drums off, give them a through cleaning out, first with a brush to remove the dust (take appropriate precautions), then some Brake cleaner and kitchen roll. Use some 60 or 80 grit paper to remove the glaze on the shoe friction surface and rough up the mating surfaces on the drums inside. Its this that causes the squealing.

You'll get a good price for the old battery at your local scrap metal merchant https://www.scraprice.com/?view=prices&cat=1&subcat=&country=12 From the pics, I see some more marks near the negative post BCE5?

Yeah, loss of control on bends is often a shock absorber lost its oil. So the wet speeping shocker is the prime suspect. It will be obvious to garage as it will have lost a lot of oil. Not strictly necessary but recommend when you change it to do the opposite side too, i e. change as a pair.

https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol Important E10 information The E10 petrol check has been created by the Department for Transport (DfT) using information supplied by the European Automobile Manufacturers' Association and European Association of Motorcycle Manufacturers. The information is subject to change and we cannot guarantee its accuracy. If your vehicle is fitted with replacement parts this will also affect its accuracy. DfT and its partners will not be liable for any damage to your vehicle as a result of you using this service. Warning. It's your responsibility to make sure you use the right fuel for your vehicle.

VW AG means it was made by/for VAG group. (unlikely by) 0118 is the production date wk 1 2018 B could be anything, a guess would be its a code for Banner or EFB At a complete loss as to why it is unmarked/no label.

Škoda E10 petrol is cleared for use in all following ŠKODA vehicles with petrol engines with the following exception: Felicia 1.3 litre OHV (40kw and 50kW) engines in the production years 1994 to 2001 Other ŠKODA models using the 1.3 litre OHV engines produced prior to 1994. NOTE: If your vehicle is listed above you should continue to use E5 petrol. If you are unsure please contact your local Škoda dealer.

There is no need to flush out petrol station tanks for the E10 rollout. My understanding is this. E10 is simply up to 10% Ethanol. So pure unadulterated petrol, or with 1%, 4%, E5 can be pumped under an E10 label. I read some time ago an industry article discussing the new bio ethanol production facility in Lincolnshire and the price/supply of ethanol. It stated that the amount refiners actually put in petrol is highly dependent on the supply and price of ethanol i.e. market conditions. Not sure, but I don't think they are under any obligation by law (yet) to actually put 10% Ethanol in E10, so they will always go for the max profit option. As most of the bio ethanol production comes from maize and other seasonal crops, the price will fluctuate lots with availability. What would they do if there was insufficient Ethanol available, say during a crop failure year? The only reason that E10 is "greener" is that the raw materials such as maize, are in effect are todays active carbon sink, crude oil was an active arbon sink but millions of years ago. The actual amount of CO2 being produced in the production/delivery/use chain is actually somewhat higher, but a proportion of that is being absorbed/offset by growing crops. There is a large amount of political/scientific smoke and mirrors and guff involved.

I think all you are doing is accessing the hidden diagnostic menu of the climatronic. All climatronics can do this. Once you get the lights flashing you use the temp and fan controls to access the multiple channels of data available e.g. sun load sensor reading. The data channels are documented somewhere, I know I accessed these on my mk2 fabia climatronic, that was here on Briskoda. Not sure if all models have the same channel allocation.

Ring around, I'm sure other dealers will oblige with a more sensible price. My dealer used to say they price match (written quote required) All your car really needs is an Oil and filter change and an entry in the Skoda service record system to keep warranty happy. I doubt at 9000 miles your pollen filter will be bunged up much.

ECP used to have exclusive rights to distribute PAGID in the UK. ECP is now part of the much larger LKQ group. Pagid is a TMDfriction brand the same group that make Mintex, Textar and many other famous brands. TMD has a manufacturing plant in Hartlepool making brake pads. https://www.hartlepoolmail.co.uk/business/hartlepool-firm-praises-workforce-as-it-unveils-ambitious-plans-to-grow-3217476 Discs could be made anywhere, TMD is big, worldwide ECP Bosch pads I bought made in Italy, Bosch discs made in China. ATE discs made in Italy, ceramic pads made in Germany, normal pads made in Italy. Don't know much about ECP Brembo but have them put on the Octavia Estate rear, too early to comment about quality, but a recent close look at the discs (after 8 months/ 4000 miles) still appear shiny new with a much finer grain than my rougher Skoda Superb rear discs. More importantly no sign of corrosion despite the low mileage and stood outside in inclement weather. My Skoda Superb OE rear discs always rust and stick together but only in the area between pad and disc when parked in my garage even though its perfectly dry and the EPB is off. Could possibly be down to electrolytic corrosion between copper in the pad and the iron disc although I believe there is a move to ban the use of copper in pads.

I think they do contain grease most ball joints do. https://www.meyle.com/en/passenger-cars/steering-and-suspension/stabilizer-links/ I would email Meyle with the pics and ask their opinion and whether their warranty covers it. https://www.meyle.com/en/contact-2/technical-request/ Are you confident they are genuine Meyle and not ebay counterfeits?

Never ever seen grease leaking from a droplink, are the boots torn or damaged? Many cheap droplinks are absolite rubbish and don't last long. Next time you change, use Meyle HD droplinks, specially oversized to last a lifetime, they come with 4 year guarantee. The taxi drivers choice.

IME, albeit at only 25mph, applying the parking brake only puts the rear brakes on. The car squats sharply backwards, and there is a disconcerting farting noise initially from the back which I think is some kind of ABS or limiter operated on the electric parking brake actuators. I did check the temperatures all round afterwards, the rears were hot and the fronts were cool. I would think the EPB is always separate from the hydraulic brakes because it functions as an emergency brake in case of total hydraulic failure. Last comment is I doubt that doing this very regularly would do the electric actuators much good, so maybe only when absolutely necessary (before the MOT)

I bought a Streetwize Obd reader from Eurocarparts. It is very basic but only cost me £15 with their discount code and does the job.

You can buy halogen bulbs with cool white colour output if you want to match the halogens to the xenons.

Your 2014 superb checks the current consumption of your headlights which have 55w halogens. Your led bulbs don't take enough current so it thinks they are blown. The only official lighting alternatives on your Superb are Xenon bulbs (plus ballast) but even those take 35w, it also needs a recode with VCDS to accept the lower Xenon bulb consumption. Unlikely that there is a coding option to lower the expected consumption to 25w which is what those LEDs take, but the Xenon coding might just work. The other way to fix it is to add a parallel load to push up the consumption, without the Xenon recode you'd need to fit a 5 ohm resistor in parallel which in turn would have to dissipate 40W (it'll get bloody hot) so a minimum of a 50w aluminium clad power resistor mounted on a suitable heatsinking surface. On each bulb. With the Xenon recode youll get away with a 20 ohm power resistor dissipating 10w. Use a min. 15w power resistor, on each bulb again. The resistors will get very hot, so watch out for melting insulation and other safety issues if you go down this route. The Philips LEDs are not ECE homologated and are not road legal, so you might be failed on the MOT. (‘contrôle technique’) edit: On further checking I'm not sure if there is Xenon option for main beam bulb on a mk2 superb which may always be fitted with a halogen bulb, so maybe no coding option available as I suggested.

Years ago I got the "evaporator is leaking" story from a dealer. Good job I didn't go ahead with the horrendously expensive job, it was actually leaking from the compressor shaft seal, found eventually when, after the a few years regassing c/w UV dye, I spotted a stain under the compressor. I doubt they have actually detected a leak in the evaporator. Was there dye in the footwells? Did their probe go haywire when placed in a vent? Or was it a case of they couldn't find a leak in the usual places so it must be the evaporator? No doubt there is no guarantee that changing the evaporator will fix your AC properly. Try and find an AC specialist that has all the correct equipment and training for a second opinion.

ACC uses both front and rear brakes in the same way as you would using the footbrake. Rear brake wear problems are mainly down to very poor quality discs and pads. I also suspect the rear brakes (in my case the nearside) dont always release completely, possibly due to over eager self adjustment or not very good at sliding caliper. A search on this forum will find much posted on the rubbish discs with many having to change at very low mileage. If changing discs and pads its highly recommended you avoid using skoda oe or their four plus parts which is what they will fit. As ACC is unaffected by what gear you are in, there is nothing to stop you changing down gear if you want some extra engine braking. Not much engine braking available on my 1.4tsi regardless of gear/engine speed especially when it goes into eco/ 2 cylinder mode on the overrun.

An alternative to buying the old extended warranty is the All in service and warranty offer. Designed by VAG as a counter to Toyota's Relax Haven't read the small print yet.

It depends on how risk averse you are and what confidence you have in the car (which to be honest can only be assessed after you've had the car a long time) plus whether you think your dealer would be supportive in case of a claim, it is not straightforward to claim. The 280 superb is among the most complex vehicles in the Skoda line up with plenty of really expensive bits that could (and occasionally do) fail. DSG box, haldex, and electronics come to mind. A new DSG box costs several thousand pounds. Electronics are excluded from Skoda's extended warranty. There is also a mighty big catch with the warranty purchase at 3 years old, the use of the phrase "sudden failure" which is a prerequisite of any claim and could be creatively used to deny many claims. Note that if you purchase the extended warrany within ±30 days of the factory warranty expiring, the price is considerably less than purchasing it beyond that window. In my case the price would have doubled if I delayed.There would also be a "no claims in the first 30 days" clause come into play as well as all the usual must have been serviced on time guff. Best read the small print and look at it from the claim handlers point of view before making a decision. Don't forget you'll be liable for any investigation costs if your claim is denied. Many dealers would want £90+ just to scan your car. My 1.4tsi SEL exec manual gbx cost £186, all cover, 15,000 miles, zero excess. When I checked for a 2.0tsi it was a lot more expensive, probably because all 2.0tsi superbs have DSG. (I got a reg number from Autotrader to check) You'll not be able to get a quote for your car until 30 days before your factory warranty expires. Maximum claims are limited unless you take the all cover option in which case its the market value of your car at the time of claim