sepulchrave

A 1756 will not work well with the current map, a 1752 might though. Poverty mods never work out well so you might be better looking for another standard turbo secondhand or better yet a PD150 unit.

This is nuts, if you don't want DPF problems don't buy a diseasal as a shopping cart or for the rush hour city centre commute, they need a decent run to keep them clear and the pennies you pinch on fuel costs are pounds wasted on getting the DPF cleaned out. Buy a petrol car instead, for low mileage the TCO is far less.

You could put a relay in instead, it would be a simple upgrade.

It is indeed, the charcoal canister is a lifetime fitment, there is no failure mode unless it's been physically damaged.

I imagine they'll be changing the solenoid as well since that can cause misfiring if it's stuck.

I don't believe any VAG group diesel vehicles from 2009 onwards didn't have a DPF fitted as standard because euro 5 compliance was mandatory across the range.

I think the dealers probably fit a new one because they're used to the apprentice dropping the old one and losing it so it's more efficient to simply replace it.

Please don't drive it until it's fixed now. You can get the hub helicoiled but it sounds like you and your brother don't really know what you're doing so it might be best done by a professional.

EPC is usually specific to emissions and fuelling, as Ken says there will be a code stored but your code reader probably can't see it.

The wire clip only needs to come out a short distance to release the elbow, once you've released the clip just wiggle and twist the elbow until it comes off.

I don't really understand why you need replace the sump plug, it's steel with a captive steel washer.

It gets properly warm, very noticeable. I'm afraid your pump has packed up because in the absence of a plausible signal from the angle sensor it should go into a reduced power mode running all the time.

Seriously? Tedious marketing guff for kids with non-toxic, edible colouring-in pencils who need careful supervision lest they injure themselves or each other.

Yes Ken, but these polarity free diodes are actually part of a complete circuit miniaturised and encapsulated in a bulb type housing, it's that circuit that doesn't care which way round it's connected.

Amazing, new spark plugs fixed the coolant loss as well?

Seems a lot of aggro for a new dildo that fits your hand better...

It's probably the pump unit starting to go on the fritz at that age, if you can't connect to the PAS ECU then that would confirm the diagnosis.

The rack itself is basically a double acting hydraulic ram, it contains no electrical components and either leaks or doesn't leak. It sounds like you're getting a momentary loss of power to the electric pump, have you checked the big fuse on top of the battery for a crack?

Yes it'll be fine, only the ancient clattering lump in the Felicia is not compatible, Jesus, will someone pin a notice to the forehead of the notice board because this is the umpteenth time this week and it's only gonna get worse!

Does your car have a Webasto preheater installed?

Yes way, cambelt is obviously fine so not much else it can be. Easy to inspect the turbo, I expect the rotor shaft has broken just behind the exducer leading to a sudden injection of high pressure engine oil into the red hot manifold leading to the white smokescreen behind the car before the engine stalled due to loss of power.

Turbo failure?

You need to loosen the 10mm nut where the terminal is split but don't remove it, then remove the terminal from the battery, clean everything and apply a thin coat of grease before refitting, tap the terminal back onto the battery post fully then retighten the 10mm nut.

Bingo.

How much NCD do you have? Even without NCD protection you'll only lose a year and I think you'll have kittens when you see how much the genuine parts are.