sepulchrave

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/311445-retrofit-cruise-control/

The sensor is like a guitar pickup, a coil of wire surrounding a magnetic pole piece, the sensor generates a very small AC voltage of a frequency depending on rotational velocity, if you connect it up the wrong way round nothing bad will happen.

Yes of course it's possible, just buy a kit and follow the instructions!

Negative, they're not the same.

Get the drums off, clean everything up and make sure the automatic adjustment mechanisms haven't seized up first.

You can argue until you're blue in the face but it's exactly what @Paws4Thot said, UV exposure has faded the rest of the paintwork slightly, try a good cutting compound and a machine polisher to reduce the effect.

They are completely the same until the rear doors which are different.

No, are you sure the battery is being drained and is not just knackered? People often put knackered batteries back in cars they're selling.

Cam dephaser solenoid failure is most likely, test the solenoid for a few ohms resistance across it. If so replace it and clear the codes, then start it and see what returns.

Just soak all the fasteners you need to remove in penetrant and leave overnight.

The ECU won't know it's a different engine so no reprogramming needed. It's a very good opportunity to replace the clutch and make sure you replace all the belts, filters, oil etc.

Xenons get so hot that the reflectors lose their shine and the plastic internals distort, the only solution is to convert to halogens, if you want new I believe Depo may still have stock of LHD units.

You might be able to fit the auto-dimwit rear view mirror if it's self-contained and just needs power, however the heated seats won't fit and neither will anything else. Why aren't you fixing the Golf, the 1.9 TDI is usually very reliable.

It's next to the air filter assembly so it's unmetered and unpressurized and can't make a difference.

Those codes are originated by the MAP sensor, however they do NOT necessarily mean the MAP sensor is faulty, they indicate that the turbo may be over boosting, possibly due to a stuck wastegate which is a mechanical fault that the computer cannot know about. Further investigation is needed, does the car enter low torque mode?

Depends which plugs you use, you should be using Iridium plugs, there is a really boring and stupid thread on here somewhere where they go round in circles with various brands anecdotally. If your plugs are worn out then your coil packs are probably damaged so you should replace the whole lot, someone figured out that Audi R8 coil packs are an upgrade so maybe worth looking into.

Christ, an EVERYTHING thread! Hurts my eyes looking at all the rampant speculation in there... In all the years I've worked on engines, on everything from the 1960's onwards there were always engines which had been driven far too gently early in their lives which drank oil badly. In fact I had one, a little old lady's 1.4 16V Fabia which was terrible. The only thing that fixed it was ruthless spanking for thousands of miles until the piston rings wore down enough to start sealing properly. It's quicker and easier on turbo engines because of the higher cylinder pressures on full boost. Either keep the car and start spanking it or throw it back where it came from and ask for a refund. If I had a penny for every time this happens I'd have a few Bob by now but it bears repeating: NEVER buy a low mileage car, it's ALWAYS better to buy a high mileage car in immaculate condition with a full history.

Low mileage cars are a bad buy, you pay twice as much for half the car, the bores will be glazed from lack of use, hence the oil consumption. Silly people run cars in wrong, you need to spank them from the off to get a good bore/ring seal.

My immediate reaction is, what engine are we talking about here? 2010 Octavia Estate is NOT enough information!

I suggest you start by checking the gearbox oil level, it may be a little low after being stood.

Yes, bad alternator or dodgy wiring.

Ok, I'll level with you, based on experience the small increase in piston diameter from a 256 caliper to a 288 does not warrant a larger master cylinder, if anything a smaller diameter master piston will actually increase braking force due to the increase in mechanical advantage. So this is a no-brainer really, just buy a pair of complete struts from a scrappy with the 288's already on them, that way you'll definitely have all the parts you need to do the swap. Happy Easter.

I'd be surprised if they're different, maybe one of the aspies crowd can pore over the parts catalogue and tell us if they're a different part or not.

I had 256 front discs on my 100 BHP 1.4 16V Fabia and I upgraded them with Brembo Max discs and pads which was a useful improvement, however my tool-eater Fabia has the 288's and the difference is night and day, doubly so since I upgraded them with MTEC discs and EBC pads.

It's nearly impossible unless you have a ball joint splitter as well.