sepulchrave

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/178380-can-cruise-control-be-fitted-to-my-fabia/ Seek and ye shall find.

Not really, you'll need the entire engine bay wiring loom together with the ECU then there'll be recoding to get all the different electronics talking to each other again. Definitely more trouble than it's worth.

I had the same problems with ECP dogsh!t pads, ended up tickling the metal backing plates with a grinder until they moved freely.

Yes the same.

Scaremongering makes no sense, I've used high tensile steel wire inserts (helicoils) my entire professional life and I can categorically state that when used and installed correctly they are stronger than the material they're replacing. You don't know what you're talking about. In engineering **** does NOT just happen, **** happens for a reason, in this particular case there is no reason for your statement whatsoever.

The head is not chambered, it's flat, the combustion chamber is in the piston crown. MLS means multi-layered steel. The cost of the repairs are relevant if you want to sell the car, less so if you just want to drive it.

Definitely a wiring issue with coil pack number one or a faulty coil.

I suspect a coil pack wiring loom issue or a faulty new coil which is not unheard of with cheap coils.

It's not complicated, you need OE MLS gasket, PD150 head bolts, belt kit and a water pump. The head needs skimming minimally but you shouldn't change gasket thickness as that's related to piston crown height above the block deck which will not have changed. Get to it.

It's stored in the PCM in Km, you can check it using a measuring block in VCDS.

ECU, the clocks are just a display system.

The Fabia is made in the Czech Republic from VW components, it's a completely European car, EVERYTHING on it is metric so you don't need to ask what size this or that is, the answer is, it's METRIC, so you need metric pipe, metric connectors, a metric flaring tool etc. The fact that you keep asking the same question suggests you should probably get the garage to do the work, they have a car lift and all the right tools and you don't.

Have you checked the turbo impeller visually? Take off the TIP and take a flash photo of it.

You won't need a new rack whatever the outcome, the rack is just a hydraulically powered mechanical unit and sounds to be in perfect working order. You either need a new sensor or a new pump, there are no other parts in the system, it's completely separate from the rest of the cars electronics.

No, don't try, you'll get in a mess, it's half a days work with a lift and worth every penny.

Is your car a turbodiesel? Of course not.

I suspect the pump unit is starting to fail, there really is no easy way to diagnose the problem and the pump ECU is very simple and offers few codes and often none at all.

There is a procedure to ensure that every nook and cranny is full of oil, then once it's up to temperature you can recheck the level, it needs to be perfect.

No, it fixes problems, make sure you bleed it properly afterwards.

It doesn't matter, as long as the steel tube in the middle of the bush is clamped tight then that's all you need to do.

It's an automatic, you need to check the oil level and change it if it's over 100k or over 10 years old.

Probably, as long as it's the early A1 that's based on the Polo 9N.

Yes, it's normal, it happens because the engine sucks fresh air in through the oil cap into the intake, this causes the mixture to lean off and the engine stalls.

It's metric, 4.75mm.

Highly likely to be down to a low oil level, when was it last changed?