travs

In summary - they don't 'need' changing just because of time despite very very low mileage, but if you're not going to do it, don't do it on the basis of saving money. Might be worth pulling one to look at it and see if lots of short journeys running rich has caused any issues but its not likely.

This sort of thing - check out the pics.

Coolant - see if your header tank says Mit Silikat on it - at which point, get a replacement and change the coolant. Ootohere used to have pics uploaded with all the official scheduling. I’ll try and find one…

Just continuing the theme of slightly misremembering something for you to correct 🤭

Don’t think it’s speed-dependant. @JR RS has done it. Check out his project thread. Not sure if it was just Superb specific but I’ll bet my wisdom tooth they mostly if not all switch between. It was a thing to switch to a Kodiaq one too I think

E-marked LED bulbs plug and play to Xenon clusters. UK road legal according to all the MOT regs and articles I can find. Bulbs

Replacement xenon bulbs in a xenon headlight cluster will be fine because the cluster has the associated lens and levelling adjustment. Xenon bulbs retrofitted to a halogen cluster is a no-no purely because of the lack of the required tech. Either way, it was on here recently that an MOT tech is not allowed to remove parts on the vehicle and therefore they cannot remove the rear cover to look at the bulb. They shouldn’t need to to see in a halogen cluster as it’s obvious looking from the front. LED bulbs were previously not E-marked and therefore not legal but there is a post on here with a link to an e-marked unit so perfectly legal in UK.

Looking back through the thread it looks like the proof will be that no-one has touched the parts since leaving the factory. Nothing to say it isn’t a case but ApertureS definitely had insider knowledge so if the message at the time was that after-factory work had been carried out, then that’s what was being said at the time (be it accurate or a corporate fob off)

Only the 280bhp has 340mm vented fronts and 310mm vented rears. All the others have 312mm vented fronts and solid 300mm rears. If you have Electronic parking brake you need something like OBD11 or VCDS to put the rears into service mode and then you push the caliper piston back, don’t wind it. Winding can mess up the mechanism and the caliper then needs a full strip down to reset it. Not guaranteed but def official advice on that one. Only when completely finished do you then take out of service mode before applying handbrake (although please check all that bit in case I’ve misremembered etc).

Good work, and good tip. Shows just how it gets everywhere!

That’s insane. There have been reports of other Arteon top mounts being preferred over Superb ones, which makes you realise they must be made of sandwich ham!

I still tend to stay away from keeping Auto full beam on but I've wondered why not - am I behind the curve on that one? I notice that on normal Full Beam, pulling the stalk switches them off but on Auto Full Beam pulling the stalk just flashes as normal (you have to push forward again to switch to normal Full Beam and then pull to switch off) - so they're probably designed to just be on Auto Full Beam all the time

Have it on the list to do but last time it was looked at, I was told the end of the spring butts up against a stopper on the perch - I presumed it has to sit there but maybe not. Either way having looked up, I reckon its something I can do at home with the car jacked up and the strut at full droop...perhaps?

Rear brakes seem to go earlier as they get used for ACC; but that tends to be pads rather than discs. I’d had a similar experience re soft brakes but they just needed bleeding again. Worth a look at that bit good it got sorted. Belts - not sure about. Petrol is chain so nothing to consider but plenty will advise I’m sure.

Although at that age is it DQ381? @SkodaKing if it’s 6-speed it’s a DQ250 gearbox which needs servicing as @Evolution13 said at 40k. If it’s 7-speed, Skoda says it’s now 80k but that’s bonkers and get it done at 40k anyway because it’s a tiny preventive maintenance cost. I’m pretty sure there’s possibly/probably a timeframe for those too. Mine’s ‘21 plate on almost 32k and I’ll be getting mine done at this year’s service around September which will be 5 years and about 37k anyway I imagine. You don’t state if yours is 4x4 - if so the Haldex is woefully overdue and needs doing imminently (oil change, clean the gauze) but if not then nothing doing. How come the brake fluid has been changed every other day? It needs doing but that was like 6 months and 5k miles at one point.

Although top mounts are a lottery themselves. I got Arteon ones when doing my B16s and have the dreaded steering creak on the nearside front. Given the difference between OE an OEM, maybe I didn’t get proper ones…

Unless they’re entirely unconnected maintenance-wise, gut feel would be that there’ll be (chargeable) time saved doing it all in one go rather than doing one then the other…unless it’s going to take a significant amount of time getting the part I’d hold off personally.

Definitely do the top mounts at the same time. Do you mean Superpro lower control arms? They won’t solve the bush issue if it’s the anti roll bar bushes.

Explains why dealers just grease them up if its the one that is suspected - you need to drop the subframe to get to it if its the one on the front ARB. Whereas if you can grease them up, its probably something you can do quick and easy.

Also, putting B4s on because they’re less likely to be noticed by a mechanic is way off the track when it comes to priorities. If you’re going to spend out on the car to improve, do it because it will improve it effectively, not because it might work but no-one is likely to spot it. Looking back, go with the B6 and enjoy.

Sounds fine for a 15 minute drive but ultimately oil temp is controlled by a number of factors so can fluctuate depending on all sorts of factors. No red flags from what you’ve said.

That’s the same as the car. You set the pressures and then tell the car that you’ve done it. It then uses the wheel speed sensors to determine the size of the wheel down to the pressure. Should the pressure drop sufficiently to reduce the size of the tire the car will pick up the wheel speed differences (a deflated tyre will have a smaller diameter and therefore need to roll slightly faster) and flag a pressure drop. It’s not the app is at fault, that’s the VAG system.

This is the crystal LED matrix lights? If so, then it doesn’t switch everything down to dipped headlights, it switch off small sections of the high beam. Which also moves as the car’s heading towards you move. It’s really clever. I’ve sat behind a mate on the motorway with it on and he said it didn’t notice at all.

Either way, it’s simplest and easiest to just state it in post or have details in signature so it’s easy to see straight off. I didn’t spot the age of the car in your first post so was wondering the same. Also, we’re all asking for help; putting some basic details about model/age/mileage helps people help you; def no need to be offhand if someone asks for that info.

This comes under “maintenance” and that doesn’t need to be carried out by a dealer to maintain the warranty. Only the annual servicing does. All your haldex servicing, brake fluid changes, air con regassing etc can be done by independents as long as they can update the online service history. In fact the classic one is that dealers aren’t required to clean the gauze on the haldex pump as it’s not in the workshop manual to do. Good VAG specialists know to do it so you get better results (although some dealers identify this and will do it if asked and charge the extra time). Hope that helps