travs

For once they actually do acknowledge the ea888.4 engine and give 400bhp (same as RL) but 565NM of torque (mine is 520ish I think). Sounds like they know their stuff.

No experience - I've always thought they were more associated with Fords - Focus RS and all that. Torque is probably better for real-world driving - larger area under the torque curve etc. High bhp only makes a difference at higher speeds and then you're look at losing your licence

Well here's a development. Chap from RPM reckons Golf R's got rid of their resonator after 2019 and suggested the Skoda might too - Formentors and Audi S3s still had it bit not the Golf. Said I'd go and take a picture and sure enough...twin cans for the cat, then a single pipe all the way back to the rear box. Just like this ebay ad for a golf mk8 r standard exhaust

Guess so, although it can’t be much and that can be adapted easily depending on where the original is cut? Might see if I can take it to them to offer them up and fit the most appropriate one

That sounds pretty extreme though - hopefully not in the same bracket as something like this from everything I’ve seen and heard.

Cheers pal - yeah I see the anti-drone bit looks like they’ve put more thought into it than the ecs or vagsport ones. Only one confusion: Golf Mk 7/7.5 Audi S3 8Y S3 8V Cupra Formentor Leon Cupra 300 estate I’ll have to email them and ask what on earth is different about them aside from the branding. All look the same, all on MQB/MQBevo AWD vehicles. Should be the same part basically and could therefore be used on Skoda AWD like Superb and…Kodiaq? It’s added to the list. I loved the exhaust-cutting tool on the ecs how-to video. That was proper light work rather than a saw!

I see no question here…🤪

Audi S3 8Y (ie Gen4) looks to be shown well on these pics: https://diversionstores.co.uk/products/vagsport-audi-s3-8y-2020-resonator-delete-pipe-kit

Bit of research and it looks like this is also Golf Mk7 R/Audi S3 8V etc. etc. (ie all top end AWDs). ECS page for theirs: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/golf-7-r-8v-s3-resonator-delete-pipe-kit-with-new-inlet-clamp/020296ecs02kt/ ECS how to video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KW8PCW20kVg As usual, now got to look at whether there is any difference for the Gen4 engines!

Tbh there's only 3 in our model - CJXA Gen3 without GPF (280), DNUA Gen 3 with GPF (272), DNFE Gen 4. I see what you mean about early IS38s. Maybe in the short term, have a backup second hand one that has at least had someone look at things like condition of the vanes, and play in the turbine shafts?

Sounds like it would be CJXA then but good to check the build plate. Does mean a remap would yield better results.

None yet - as in nothing bad. It connects to CarPlay, then drops it after about 5 minutes, then reconnects. Just happens once every journey. It started doing it before the update (presuming it was an iPhone update) and I was hoping it would have been solved by 332 but nope.

Same thing as Miller's? I used to run my Mk1 Fabia vRS on that and, to be honest, cold starting was a bit ropey whenever I ran out.

I didn't know the LHS was a weakness either tbh. As far as I know, Monroe are the originals, not particularly respected but no idea if OE pattern parts end up being any better.

Maybe it depends what is being done: uprating or replacing as standard and whether the garage wants to source parts. My brakes needed changing and I said that I was looking to replace with uprated parts, that I could get X at ££ and offered that if they could price match while earning themselves a margin on that then I was happy to go that route. They didn't seem bothered about the latter and were happy to do it. Same with next week's work - fine to do the work. My instinct will be partially protecting margin they have on supplying parts...but it could be that larger places have contracts with certain places and avoid anything else over legal claims over failure of the part; ie was it defective or badly fitted. If defective, then they can forward responsibility onto the supplier they have a relationship with. With customer supplied parts, there is no mitigation of risk.

There's a good few old car cleaning pinned threads I was looking to see if they warranted a refresh, some of those are old but not 2003 - the basic principles are still the same, but technology and some R&D has moved on.

I’ve got the car going for MOT next week and getting them also to fit the an uprated dogbone mount and rear arb. Not a problem for them but they’re pretty obvious uprated items and…well it’s my car. They can either fit them or I’ll get someone else to do it or find the time to do it myself. But I’m sourcing the parts and supplying them. That may be the difference; decide what you want, get them, and then get a place to fit them properly.

Can you try and redirect it to the wireless charging cubby like Aperture’s job? p.s. love the house 👌🏻

That equaliser is very different - is that the difference between MIB2.5 and MIB3?

Someone not giving you a price unless you place an order is an immediate red flag to me. Plenty of places will be able to fully price up the work for you and also break it into its component elements. Never commit to anything unless you’re making a fully-informed decision.

Good point on the washing actually - microfibres are basically two types of plastic fibre; polyamide and polyester. One is good at trapping oils, the other at trapping water. Which means, washing at over 40degrees melts the fibres and kills the effectiveness. No hot tumble drying or sticking on the radiator after either. There are dedicated MF towel cleaning products (eg Carpro MFX) but otherwise some guys advocate chucking in some white vinegar or baking soda to help pull the oils out. Try to do a MF wash separate to other laundry as they’ll pick up lint from the other fabrics. And Stoner’s is a very respected product…I think perhaps moreso in US as it’s an American product. Substitutes Acid for Alcohol-based active ingredients which act as a solvent rather than surfactant.

Admittedly, sarcasm got the better of me for the rear windscreen and carpets. But the subtle front-end differences I think are quite material in reality

The classic old old old old school window cleaning was vinegar and newspaper. Newspaper because it absorbs and doesn't drop fibres...and vinegar contains acetic acid which is a great surfactant that lifts grease away from the surface. Acids tend to be a little draggy on surfaces (and risks causing marring damage to clearcoat), which is why they tend to be used in certain scenarios or as last resort. Glass is one of the certain scenarios as it is much hardier. Windowlene contains acetic acid which is why its still a successful glass cleaner. All the more successful products will tend to base around an acid. For media, I've found waffle-weave microfibres tend to be really good - something like Rag Company "Dry me a river" are my go to but there are plenty of competitors. As far as contact washing - any brushes or sponges will lead to clearcoat damage over time as they are just too abbrasive. Best way is microfibre washmitt and while people will advocate a 2 bucket method (or 3 for a separate wheel bucket), I prefer one bucket with clean water (and grit guard in the bottom) and car shampoo in a pump spray to get it on the car. Spray it on, panel by panel, use the wash mitt, rinse the wash mitt in the clean bucket, then move on. Working from top to bottom.

https://the-ida.com/page/italy_chapter This might give you an idea of who's around. You should be able to have just the spot done for pretty low cost - I used to charge c.£40 for spot polishes. Yes ideally you'd have the whole car done as it will look much better but, in my experience of people that I dealt with, that's just as much about being passionate about cars having perfect clearcoat than just trying to upsell (just google-image search before and after machine polishing images to see) but ultimately its your car so don't be pushed into anything you don't want to do.

Ok you didn’t criticise but Inwas answering the points that OP thought it was on the paint, and at the time we didn’t have pictures of it. And you didn’t ask if he’d had someone look at it - you asked “have you tried machine polishing it”. Which is still not the first thing to go for. We can only go on the info and words at the time. A year old suspected sap/glue could still be broken down and removed with the right products. But I agree, since then, the picture identifies it immediately…in which case best practice is still to attempt to use chemicals as it’s the least aggressive method first. And like I say, you’ve got to use basically the same products to clean and decontaminate before getting a machine on it; and a detailer worth his salt will talk to the customer and ask rather than breaking out the Rupes. We’re at the solution now and I absolutely agree that he should seek a pro to do a proper job on it to avoid any complications or further unintended damage.