travs

Constant VAG drone that AS managed to source/build himself. Looks ace - as if the project thread wasn't impressive enough...

Getting them swapped over today at first opportunity - however ironically, Mtec have come back and said they "don't really recommend" swapping them round. They've done all of about 10 miles slow urban driving. Sounds like they're covering their backs in case anything goes wrong and they want it in writing that they "advised the customer not to swap them around". Hardly definitive language though. Either that or they're effectively saying that the mounting position doesn't matter...can't have it both ways though. If it were a few hundred miles or something then I'd be less inclined to change them round but on this usage, I can't see there being any impact to changing them.

Had a Kia Sportage before this - no idea what the issue was but when crawling it would kangaroo; like a random application of fuel and clutch. Also being a dry-clutch system you were advised not to crawl in traffic. Trust me, this DSG is like heaven comparatively! Anyway, look at TVS DSG remap. Meant to be pretty much the best of the best DSG remapping with lots of features. As said on the remap thread, the TVS DSG remap for me would have doubled the cost for me on top of the Racingline ECU flash so I didn't go for it but I would have in a heartbeat if the money issue would have been the case.

Interesting. It hasn't rained much recently so that could be the lack of issue from mine (has been months). Although if the last post in that thread referred to a small hole then perhaps that can be looked for and saved. Looking at it logically (and in an effort to salvage the situation): Given it is temporary, it must be affected by the presence of water, rather than permanent damage caused by water. So solving any leaks with a bit of silicon sealant would in theory stop the issue. Otherwise if the LEDs are dead then there's no bringing them back to life. I may be oversimplifying it of course... Not sure what the warranty situation is on the cars - mine is 3.5 years old now so if its general warranty then I'm outta luck

Black Friday deals seem to be kicking in now so you won't have lost out on much if anything!

For the moment it’ll be one of those things that is clearly a thing but not prevalent enough to initiate research into it. For the time being not much you can do other than to let it get worse and worse and then see if changing the cluster does anything. Other than that, take a look at the wiring and see if there is any sign of breakdown of the wires or surface contamination if contact points.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/527581-rear-light-fade-on-issue/#comment-5892651

You’re not alone at least. I have the same although hasn’t happened in a quite a while. Pretty sure I’ve read of at least one other user on here with similar symptoms. Other issue I get is when the rears fade on when you unlock at night, the inner portion on the boot lid doesn’t fade but pops on at the end. Will try to find thread. No idea if it’s connected or coincidental either.

These are lovely. Very BMW HRE-esque

Pretty good places to start https://club.autodoc.co.uk/tyres/skoda/superb/superb-3v3 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/superb/2021/

Basically, the 3 main aspects of wheel figment will be PCD, centre bore and offset. PCD is the number of bolts and the diameter of an imaginary circle that would run through the centre of the bolt holes. Centre bore is the big hole in the middle and offset is the way the wheel sits in/out from the car. Basically, look for the standard specs and match to that. You can be a ‘bit’ flexible with offset (which will be a range anyway) but too far in and the wheel rubs on the inner wheel lining (noting full lock for the fronts) or suspension strut and too far out and they’ll rub in the wheel arches when the suspension compresses. I’m sure there is plenty more to it but that’s the basics.

Thanks mate - I was putting that rumbling down to the coating, and you can see the coating already going. Have phoned them straight away and discussing first thing Monday to get them swapped over. Frustrating as it means I can’t just get out and get some miles in getting them bedded in properly etc. I enjoy driving it and now it’s going these and the remap and I’ve just got to sit here staring at it 😬

Ffs. Local VAG specialist; they’re usually very good so this is irritating that they’ve done this. I was reading a few posts on various posts that said the grooves didn’t matter comparable to the internal vanes but your post is definitive on that. Have emailed them to get them switched asap - don’t want to do any more bedding-in of pads to discs like that and need to avoid any dual carriageway stuff too.

MTEC drilled and grooved fitted. A bit rumbly which I think is wearing the coating off the contact surface. But…I’ve noticed the grooves are facing forward at the top on both sides. Not what I expected, but does it matter? Pics in case my explanation is rubbish - excuse the filthy wheels!

Yep I do not like the ride on anything but Sport DCC on motorways; comfort feels like you could lose the back end on a bend if it’s bumpy. Not changing yet but when these shocks need a refresh it’ll be B6s

Agree with classic - I tend to flick into S for a variety of situations including coming up to a roundabout where I may be slowing down but may be able to keep going at the last minute, or any reactive spirited driving such as overtaking.

Think this is for adverts only - perhaps move to general chat forum. I think cheap tyres are probably a bit of a false economy however.

RacingLine flashed at home. Was very straightforward to do following the guide. TCU flashed and then ECU. Had to do a stock update first and then layered on the update. Haven’t throttled up in anger yet but could immediately tell the gear changes and the lower torque response. Initial impressions are very positive so far!

@leolito Racechip 30% runs out today in case you hadn’t seen.

Can't hear it either I'm afraid but it does remind me that a mate of mine thinks the indicator sounds like a horse walking past on concrete

Well Racingline also do a plug and play kit too; 'the PCM'. Not quite as high results as a remap (presumably because it can't amend all of the same parameters) but its another option to conisder. I think its a bit more than the Racechip...and they're doing 30% off until tomorrow (13th Nov) so you could save money there too. Just for info, I was confused about whether the JB4 Group 18 product was relevant for the car and george@burgertuning (their VAG specialist) said "To be sure check the TMAP connector at the front of the engine and see if it has three wires". I haven't on mine but that's all you need to do to be sure seemingly.

Its funny you should mention that. I've done almost exactly the same for the same reasons. Except I've ordered the PDM to flash it at home. I only really miss out on before/after power runs, which I can always get done at some point if I'm bothered. I can flash/reflash/return to stock whenever I want (not to evade detection but just because it gives the flexibility...and should I ever sell the car I can sell it without the map if that puts people off). But I also like the idea of the anti-theft measure - you can basically flash to zero so the car will never start and the only way anyone is ever stealing it is towing it away. It also means if I put an induction kit and intercooler on I can go to Stage 1+ etc. etc. Seems promising...

Good stuff - keep us posted with your progress and pics!

Did you spot JR-RS had mentioned it should fit without a clock-spring change as long as both were with or both without heating? You hadn't mentioned whether yours did or didn't - but if it did and it didn't work following the change there was a relevant anecdote to the fact you may have to tell the car you have a different steering wheel type. Its not a dead certainty, but its relevant to changing steering wheels; that's what forums are for in my experience.

One caveat to heated steering wheel if you have it. I managed to disable mine by changing an option in VCDS long coding as in button didn’t work and got a new steering wheel under warranty as Skoda engineer didn’t realise either. There are about 4 different steering wheel models to choose from and to get it back I just trial-and-error’d and it came back. So if it doesn’t work and it should it could be that the software is looking for a different option. I’ll go back and find it if you need it. It’s one of the last bytes in HVAC or Central Electrics.