travs

Oh a certain domestic situation doesn’t allow for that! The one I’m looking at has a fast cat, GPF removal but an additional silencer box to keep sounds down. Not cheap though.

Good numbers there buddy. Looks like RRR have come up with the numbers once again!

OK - so on the list is: Superpro LCAs - standard replacements with poly bushes. @Awesam would be good to get alu items but I want to move to poly bushes and any combination of poly and alu ends up being £500 upwards and don't come with bottom ball joints so more cost Superpro Front anti-roll bar Superpro Front and rear drop links (may as well upgrade the rears while I'm looking at bits to swap out) If that doesn't kill the creak as well as tighten up the front end a little, then it must be top mounts by the that point and I'll aim for those. Now downpipes...

Fingers crossed for that then!

Some adaptors are for charging cables and only deal with power. Just need to make sure its power and data. Its not just USB-A to USB-C adaptors. I've got a micro-USB cable that only charges - plug in my Garmin bike computer to my PC and nothing. Grab another cable and all is fine. Same with iphone to USB adaptors since the change from the Lightning connector. Some are just for power and won't work with headphones etc.

Looks really good @zacko_O - really neat job too.

According to google AI, they're the same except for the TRC1071 gives you a little more caster 🤷‍♂️

Can I get some recommendations for LCAs and preferably part numbers? No-one seems to be able to confirm that they fit the Superb 3V AWD. I thought this TRC1070 was the right one, but apparently not. According to AwesomeGTI, this TRC1071 is correct, but not according to the Superpro website. The single worst aspect of ownership of these cars is trying to work out which supplier knows their arse from their elbow when it comes to supplying or selling the parts that they make.

Someone @MarioVrs mentioned…

I’m guessing something infrastructure to get around. Steering rack different or something like that? @leolito at least you know there’s a bloke in Austria that can sort you out! 🎉🎉

Whilst it doesn't answer the question specifically, you have 2 options to charge the phone: use one of the cigarette lighter chargers; they do pretty fast units these days convert one of the cigarette points to a flush USB unit permanently.

The downpipe? I don’t think there’s a difference between LHD and RHD

I've not known rain to be related but god knows. May be worth getting the battery tested - you want to use a battery tester that gives you the State of Health and State of Charge as well as I thin taking readings when the engine is running and when not. More informed people on here will know (try some searches on battery testing). Otherwise, 5 years is squarely within the very wide end-of life span for batteries - you cold shortcut the above and just get it replaced (including using something like VCDS/OBD11 to tell the car the new battery is in and what type).

When did you change the battery last? Electronical gremlins, which are both varied and inconsistent amongst owners are first put down to the battery on its way out. I think after that you can get wheel speed sensors which fail and start to do the same. I'm assuming the dealer has run fault code scans (Have they? Did they mention the battery or wheel speed sensors?) but it looks like they've very much focussed on the sensors and associate framework being the issue and not whether something unrelated causing a ghost issue.

I've got a link in a post last friday about 7 or 8 posts above which has it. Unzip to an empty USB stick in the root, plug it in, press and hold Menu button which will reboot the MIB into engineering mode (black screen with small red font) and follow the logic on there; its all touch screen and some options seem to need selecting twice. Otherwise, if I can do it without an instruction manual, you're good to go.

If you're based in EU then you can update to 308 and then from there to 332. 324 is not the latest. If you're not EU, then the RoW (Rest of the World) files are a little harder to find.

Interesting. Wonder if yours is simpler being slightly different design on the pre-GPF. I was looking at this; bit of a chavvy name but I'm not fussed. And annoyingly Racingline do a Stage 3 for the Gen3 engine but not the Gen4 that I can see yet 😬 Anyway, Short-term: Spray lower arms with grease to see if that's the culprit Longer-term: New rear drop links, front drop links, new lower arms, potentially new top mounts/bearings, subframe mounting kit, might as well do front arb. If that doesn't do it...

Cheers - Got the rear arb already but kept reading mixed messages about the OE droplinks being both cheese and fine. So will chuck those on the list too.

Welcome to the old world! Enjoy your hols I'm starting to notice losing a few mm height on the bottle level so will look at this as either culprit or potential...if they have them on the Gen4

Scheiße Right I’ll start with the lower arms and get lubing. But I’ll look at replacing the bits I haven’t done so yet. Lower arms (Superpro etc) are fairly straightforward but considering dropping the subframe for the front arb opens a massive can of ‘whole you’re there’ worms seeing as I’m still trying to mull over a downpipe which needs the subframe dropping…. Bit of planning needed I think. In the meantime, KY it is

All good so far buddy?

Alright I’ll give that a go. It was all silent from the factory - I even wonder if everything was tight from there, and being taken apart has just allowed something to loosen up or some contaminant between surfaces. Just makes the car feel so cheap at the mo.

I’ll agree they’re different cars. It’s not as if the Superb is a S-class luxobarge though. It’s bigger and will be heavier but it’s the same chassis and same lack of refinement and sound-deafening compared to Seat upwards. Mine is the L&K so old-man version rather than Sportline Plus but there’s not much aside from ride height in the handling department. Either way, it’s definitely built more for a motorway slip road than b-road. But @OccyVRS makes a good observation. I looked for Petrol AWD Auto. Had they made an Estate AWD Octavia like the Golf and Leon I probably would have had that. Or at least considered it.

Funnily enough Russel Road and Racing has just been mentioned in an MQB Tuning facebook group and a lot of love for Kalam and his skills.

History is that since the coilovers were done, the front-left top mount has aways creaked on turning; classic top mount sound of juddering movement. I've tried rotating the spring a little in case that's a difference but I need to do try some more just to make sure I haven't forgotten anything. In the meantime, the front right has developed a creak which is different. It's a heavier creaky rubber feel to it which is triggered on minor movement/weight shift. Going over speedbumps obviously makes it happen, but just the start and end of the motion i.e. when the wheel starts to move/change direction. Just normally pulling away causes a little noise too. Gross movements don't make it sound even worse - if that makes sense. I leant on the front right with the bonnet open and really thought it sounded like it was coming from the top mount, but have I really got 2 duff ones in different ways?!? They're OE parts from Skodaparts which are the Arteon spec ones which seemed to have good feedback compared to Superb ones. Maybe the coilover setup is harsher on topmounts than B6/Eibach? So perhaps replace with the thinner Superb items? Alternatives (in case the noise is travelling) are LCAs or ARB bushes. Is there anything I can do to test or eliminate one item over another? Cheers!