travs

Agree with NTA and Evolution on this. If you just want more performance from the car, its not really going to happen with some magic remap. Directly, any more performance-based mapping will need to take advantage of increased air flow (induction kit), cooler charge (intercooler) and potentially exhaust to assist with increased exhaust gas flow capacity. But before all that the responsible thing to do is make sure the car is looked after well - changing the oil and service items more often; and servicing gearbox/diffs more often than advised etc.

That reads as though you've introduced variables which is causing confusion. Press - no. Hold - yes. Irrespective of where you stand.

I’ve got one too but never found it that useful as the wheel still moves around a bit so found it fiddly. But @Warrior193 mentioned two…that sounds like the panacea

Yessir. Sit on floor with wheel in front, put it on the hub and hold it there while you line it up with the holes, couple of bolts in and game over.

Yep - called a stud and nut kit. Plenty of tuners sell them as most people that are serious about tracking their car will switch to that.

My variation is to sit on the floor with feet on the tyre wall at 3 and 9 holding it on the hub; bolts handtight with the Little (4"?) extension bar I have, then tweak with bar then torque when car's back on the floor.

DTUA engine code by the looks of it. Darkside Developments seem not to be phased. They’re one of the better reputation diesel tuners so give them a shout.

If it’s not on Kopacek (I believe they get a local dealer to paint emblem backgrounds in body colour paint) then chances are you’d need to take to a Bodyshop and get them to paint the strips themselves.

Yes the XLR is very good. I have mine in Race+ - throttle like a hairline trigger. Muuuuuch better. The diesel to petrol comparisons do also flag the torque/power comparison. When I had the car remapped, the biggest difference was noticeable at higher speeds and not throughout all performance. It wasn’t until the intercooler and larger charge pipes made a noticeable increase all through the rev range.

You think all drove the same? If so, then it sounds like yours is the same. Although as long as you drove all facelifts then you should have the same experience but if the test drives were pre-facelift then the previous generation engine had a different turbo with different flow-dynamics which may have made it seem like the turbo kicked in more sudden. If you have a facelift then it’s a DNFE engine which is an excellent base for tuning…but good to let the warranty expire first for sure.

"New car smell for cyclists"

Engine cover from the ea888.4 is what would be in the facelift....but without trying to be a pedant, the crossover date is probably not exact for all parts. lllparts has bodyparts "to 7/7/2019" and "8/7/2019 onwards" so I think that's where the physical changes occurred on things like the front end, rear roundel to SKODA etc but not everything; there's probably a few early facelift cars that still have the DNUA (ea888.3b) engine. I was told by a tuner that there are some early S3 8Y which should have the ea888.4 still with the ea888.3b which caused some upset when they had work to do planned on the model rather than VIN which would have told them. Anyway! Looks great - another tidy little addition!

Absolutely - its all very well being descriptive about processes and the order of them, but ultimately its down to the owner as to how they want the car to look. The traditional view of a ceramic coating is that, given its longevity, you want the car looking as perfect as possible beforehand given you "lock-in" the condition, but that's individual's prerogative. The coating will provide a level of protection from chemicals, UV and ease cleaning being more difficult for contaminants to adhere to. That's sufficient benefit for some without having to have the paint in showroom condition. You can get consumer products for about £40/£50 - as long as the paint is clean and decontaminated its ok. There are arguments that going over with a polisher will help adherence but there's no guarantee on that. As for protection, I personally tend to use Carpro's (Hydr02) as its easy to apply and remove with a jetwash. mist on, jetwash off almost immediately. Gyeon, G-techniq and Labocosmetica all have similar products although Carpro also have it in a snowfoam form too. The latter is probably better in sunny situations as I can easily get highspots if its too bright and warm (high spots are where a ceramic coating has been left on too long/not cleaned off leaving a haze in those patches). I have used one-step polishes with a protection in but its all situation-specific.

International Detailing Association trained and certified here and trained at UK Detailing Academy. You can do what you like, it’s you car but the general trends are based on research and understanding that changes and grows over time. Waterless/Rinseless products aren’t bad per se. They’re just not for this place. They were developed in California where there have been regular issues with water shortages and hosepipe bans. It’s not that it doesn’t do the job, it’s a shortcut that compromises on results because of the scenario it wasn’t developed for. Water-based products are simply better because they’ve been developed for longer by more companies. Generally the stages for cleaning: Rinse (remove obvious contaminants cheaply with water from your jetwash) Pre-wash (snowfoam, citrus - they don’t both need to be done, do it properly, do it once); very generous rinse here to use the prewash to get rid of contaminants Wheels/tyres - alkali/ph neutral cleaner is fine unless really burnt on nasty crusty brake dust then you’ll need an acid-based product. Iron fallout - start around the wheel on the body, if there is responding colour-change, spray a bit further along. If there is no indication by colour change, don’t bother doing more as the chances are low there will be any. Safe Contact wash - 2 bucket method is standard but there are single bucket methods. Tar remover - generally lower half of the car, starting behind the wheels. Clay if you’re going to polish. It creates marring damage in pulling out contaminants, so no point unless you correct it. Rinse low pressure to drag off spare water. Dry (air dryer and/or microfibre drying towel). Wash media is good quality clean microfibre - washmitt for cleaning, soft-tip brushes for panel gaps and corners, and microfibre towels for any. Delete stages as you don’t want them. Protective products can range from hand waxes, spray waxes, spray polymer waxes, hybrid ceramic and/or graphene waxes, ceramic coating, PPF.

Can attest to the rear quarter. Had that window smashed by a flying stone and it’s about 400+change from main dealer only to get the glass and it comes with trim that goes above and below the main window…but I can’t remember whether the autoglass bloke reused the existing chrome strips…I don’t think they used new ones But either way just wrap ‘em

Front control arms but no feeling through the steering wheel? That would be annoying as I'd definitely go for the rear first port of call.

Clutch pack and oil…but no idea how they interact. What oil was used when you had it changed? Maybe slightly thicker and needs to warm up before it lubes properly?

Good that it’s getting worse - eventually you’ll find the problem when the problem part falls off. Kidding - have you looked at engine and gearbox mounts?

Nope - the wheels will still miss the arch as they compress. Looks much better now. Enjoy!

But it does need verification. This is an anecdote and there are tons of other variables which aren’t factored explained or potentially even obvious to the guy’s whose car it was. Despite that it’s definitively the fault of the oil. Despite what must be thousands of cars being used with that oil? Despite no information on how he’s driven it? Whether he’s had the car since new and always had the servicing done immaculately? If there isn’t a trend to support the same thing and there is evidence to support that the oil has been identified as causal or at least contributory in this case then have to tak it with a pinch of salt. The motor oil guy may support certain aspects of oil type and additives, but if there isn’t large volume data to support that in this situation, then you can’t draw any firm conclusions that it’s not circumstantial, same with the body colour or age of the car, or whether it’s a DE, UK or US car etc. While it’s a shame the engine was needed on this 9-year old car with entirely unknown history, the only thing I take away from this is how sensationalist the internet is.

Now sold.

Picture: hilarious. ABT - just a corporate deal surely? I always thought previously the Leon was the slightly experimental one. Reported as setup a little more lively than the Golf and Audi. The ABT ones just seemed to exacerbate that. Wiki says, power to 345bhp, bodykit, quad tailpipes, uprated shocks, 2 degrees negative camber, brakes. So that’s most EA888.3 Stage1 remaps, a few grand at Maxton/reiger, BBK upgrade, Bilstein B6, topmounts. Couple of Engineering teams plan out a series of run-out models, cost it up and get the green light from the board as continuing the theme of the wild child younger sister. Done. Skoda doesn’t have an equivalent model as they never had an AWD version of the Octy. The singular reason I discounted it. If I’d done what I have to a Sportline Plus rather than L&K then it would have been closer to it. Maybe with a front lip and rear diffuser section.

Hmmmmm…. @Cairus is it possible to remove the FEC code for SatNav, so it doesn’t try to load? Then plug in the USB to see if the maps will update?

That reads like they did less but charged more - is that right?

I don’t think you need it given how carefully you drive the car Rob. Aaaand you had that oil in the spark plug well potentially from the cam cover gasket; if so, thinner oil may leak more…?